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dirty_south87

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I need to do a water change on my system, I have ammonia after my rodi system but not before. I’m not entirely sure as to why yet but I’m assuming I need to replace filters. So my question is since my water before rodi system could I make it safe by using prime?
 
That was something I had asked before if that was a possibility but was told it is the water source.

I tested instant ocean reef crystals and Red Sea coral pro
Instant Ocean definitely tests positive for total ammonia, but it’s a small amount and may not matter when it is diluted in the aquarium, right?
 
Instant Ocean definitely tests positive for total ammonia, but it’s a small amount and may not matter when it is diluted in the aquarium, right?
If there was no ammonia in the tank I could see that, but at the same time I am still learning it all.

I have some levels of ammonia in my tank so I feel like all I’m doing is keeping it in there during water changes
 
If there was no ammonia in the tank I could see that, but at the same time I am still learning it all.

I have some levels of ammonia in my tank so I feel like all I’m doing is keeping it in there during water changes
Are you certain there is ammonia in your system? Is it new?
 
We have discussed ammonia for a bunch of posts now and there's no mention of the amounts or the age of the tank. The exact kits also matter. Do not assume Prime is ever useful for ammonia.

Q: Is it normal to rain as much as it did last night?
A: Yes, no? Maybe?
 
We have discussed ammonia for a bunch of posts now and there's no mention of the amounts or the age of the tank. The exact kits also matter. Do not assume Prime is ever useful for ammonia.

Q: Is it normal to rain as much as it did last night?
A: Yes, no? Maybe?
The tank I have is new since my 180 has sprung a leak so I replaced it. But what I keep trying to find out is why am I finding ammonia before it goes into the tank. I have used 3 different water source to make small batches of mix water and then tested them. Instant ocean and Red Sea coral pro.

Tap water- was reading at 0
Between ro and di - 0
After di - 0.8

well water - 0.3

lfs - 0.5

I have mentioned about finding ammonia before doing a water change. I have done what was suggested before but still in the position of finding ammonia. I have seen post about it being in the salt and was tested by others but I’m told by a few it’s not possible. Out of curiosity I have 2 types of salt to test my water source and find same amount in both. Before my rodi I don’t have any but I do have total and free chlorine.
I used 2 different types of freshwater test to get my results and both came out to be the same. Even checked the water in my freshwater tank and have no traces of ammonia in it either and it was pulled before the rodi system on the last water change.

upon testing my tank water everything is where it needs to be but small amounts of ammonia which is between 0.1 and 0.2

I didn’t have the intention of using prime to rid of ammonia (never worked for me) but I wasn’t really sure how effective it is towards chlorine.
 
The tank I have is new since my 180 has sprung a leak so I replaced it. But what I keep trying to find out is why am I finding ammonia before it goes into the tank. I have used 3 different water source to make small batches of mix water and then tested them. Instant ocean and Red Sea coral pro.

Tap water- was reading at 0
Between ro and di - 0
After di - 0.8

well water - 0.3

lfs - 0.5

I have mentioned about finding ammonia before doing a water change. I have done what was suggested before but still in the position of finding ammonia. I have seen post about it being in the salt and was tested by others but I’m told by a few it’s not possible. Out of curiosity I have 2 types of salt to test my water source and find same amount in both. Before my rodi I don’t have any but I do have total and free chlorine.
I used 2 different types of freshwater test to get my results and both came out to be the same. Even checked the water in my freshwater tank and have no traces of ammonia in it either and it was pulled before the rodi system on the last water change.

upon testing my tank water everything is where it needs to be but small amounts of ammonia which is between 0.1 and 0.2

I didn’t have the intention of using prime to rid of ammonia (never worked for me) but I wasn’t really sure how effective it is towards chlorine.

I understand what you are trying to find out, but far more important is if any of the measurements are accurate, and if so, which ones.

It has been stated correctly that salt mixes typically have some ammonia. Nothing problematic with that.

Trying to be patient here, but again, which kits? It's been asked 3 times now. We do not ask questions without a reason. API, for example is known to read 0.2 ppm in many reef tanks that likely have far lower ammonia.

Small amounts of ammonia in top off water or in new salt water are not the cause of problematic levels of ammonia in an established reef tank. It would likely be beneficial. Some folks dose ammonia.

Is the RO/DI effluent 0 ppm TDS? Is it coming from untreated well water? That is, your own well?
 
I understand what you are trying to find out, but far more important is if any of the measurements are accurate, and if so, which ones.

It has been stated correctly that salt mixes typically have some ammonia. Nothing problematic with that.

Trying to be patient here, but again, which kits? It's been asked 3 times now. We do not ask questions without a reason. API, for example is known to read 0.2 ppm in many reef tanks that likely have far lower ammonia.

Small amounts of ammonia in top off water or in new salt water are not the cause of problematic levels of ammonia in an established reef tank. It would likely be beneficial. Some folks dose ammonia.

Is the RO/DI effluent 0 ppm TDS? Is it coming from untreated well water? That is, your own well?
I apologized I thought I have mentioned before on the test type. Freshwater water test kits are strips, not sure on brand empty bottle is in the landfill by now, got it from a local freshwater store and the other was api.
Both test shows the same numbers

The saltwater test kits are Red Sea and Hanna checker. I don’t use api in saltwater.

im not to worried about the real low level that is currently in my tank but I am concerned about the higher levels in the mix before doing a water change. I feel like it would rise the levels. Which I’m figuring is where I had my previous issues in my 180 before I had to take it down and replace it with a 90 gallon. The rocks are from the 180 which are mostly at minimum of a year old.

The tds before rodi is 128 and 10 after.

The well water was used for an experiment so it has never reached my tank. It comes from a family members home which has a simple filter system so it’s not pure.
 
I apologized I thought I have mentioned before on the test type. Freshwater water test kits are strips, not sure on brand empty bottle is in the landfill by now, got it from a local freshwater store and the other was api.
Both test shows the same numbers

The saltwater test kits are Red Sea and Hanna checker. I don’t use api in saltwater.

im not to worried about the real low level that is currently in my tank but I am concerned about the higher levels in the mix before doing a water change. I feel like it would rise the levels. Which I’m figuring is where I had my previous issues in my 180 before I had to take it down and replace it with a 90 gallon. The rocks are from the 180 which are mostly at minimum of a year old.

The tds before rodi is 128 and 10 after.

The well water was used for an experiment so it has never reached my tank. It comes from a family members home which has a simple filter system so it’s not pure.

OK, so it is municipal water that may have chloramine in it, and at 10 ppm TDS output, the RO/DI water could easily have a lot of ammonia coming out. Even more than is coming into the DI. That is because the DI collects ammonia for a while, but when it gets depleting, other ions coming into the di that are bound more strongly (say, calcium) pop the ammonia off and you can get excess ammonia in the effluent.

Ammonia does not accumulate in an operating (not cycling) reef tank. A little added by top off is no problem, but I would replace the DI in case that is a source (or a source of worse things that can accumulate, such as copper, or a huge load of silicate).

I wouldn't be sure ammonia strips are accurate.
 
OK, so it is municipal water that may have chloramine in it, and at 10 ppm TDS output, the RO/DI water could easily have a lot of ammonia coming out. Even more than is coming into the DI. That is because the DI collects ammonia for a while, but when it gets depleting, other ions coming into the di that are bound more strongly (say, calcium) pop the ammonia off and you can get excess ammonia in the effluent.

Ammonia does not accumulate in an operating (not cycling) reef tank. A little added by top off is no problem, but I would replace the DI in case that is a source (or a source of worse things that can accumulate, such as copper, or a huge load of silicate).

I wouldn't be sure ammonia strips are accurate.
I don’t hold the strips to be very accurate, never had in my many years of doing freshwater tanks so that is the reason I used the api brand on freshwater where I never had any issues with using it. I’m gonna replace all filters in my rodi system at once. I wanted to make sure doing that will fix any issues that I have been seeing or if it was something I was missing altogether.

As far as my display goes everything looks happy and thriving, just didn’t wanna cause an issue using that water with those levels up like they are as to why I’m on here trying to find a solution before I just start chasing something that isn’t there and spending money on stuff I don’t need
 
Here's a thread on ammonia dosing that gives insight into what happens with a little ammonia in top off water:

 
Here's a thread on ammonia dosing that gives insight into what happens with a little ammonia in top off water:

What would be your take on doing a water change? When there is some presence of ammonia in the mix? Do you think it would affect the water in my tank or it’ll just stay the same?

I have tested a theory on my last batch of test mix batch, tested for ammonia last night and the numbers are significantly lower than the original test. The bucket sat covered up with no movement or heat (outside of room temperature). What would your input be on that? I’m curious on to how that is
 
I think there jsut may be significant test error/variability, but if the ammonia really was 0.5 ppm in new salt water, and you did a 10% water change, the added ammonia is only 0.05 ppm, which IMO, is not any problem and I'd proceed.
 
I think there jsut may be significant test error/variability, but if the ammonia really was 0.5 ppm in new salt water, and you did a 10% water change, the added ammonia is only 0.05 ppm, which IMO, is not any problem and I'd proceed.
I am waiting on a new test equipment to come in. As you said there could be errors in the test itself. I appreciate everything
 

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