What in the actual PH???

reefbizkit · Feb 28, 2017

Getting the new reef rolling. PH measured low at 7.8 so I added some buffer to raise that up... or so I thought. Tested this evening a day later and it dropped it to 7.4? Frustrated. I want to add some rock to get this thing cycled but I can't even get my water where it needs to be. Any suggestions?

saltyfilmfolks · Feb 28, 2017

Is there nothing in the water? Ph is well, long story. Its fine, put it in the tank..

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/

reefbizkit · Feb 28, 2017

Nothing in the tank but water... Hydrometer reads that we're in optimal range. put in some rock and sand and get this party started?

Robink · Feb 28, 2017

Yes, put them in...

reefbizkit · Feb 28, 2017

That's why I'm on here... to get advise from experienced reefers. I'm going to add some rock and live sand and see how she cycles. Thanks everyone.

saltyfilmfolks · Feb 28, 2017

reefbizkit said:
Nothing in the tank but water... Hydrometer reads that we're in optimal range. put in some rock and sand and get this party started?

yup. The ph will continue to drop as there son constant os source. from skimming photosynthesis, etc...

Robink · Feb 28, 2017

Yep and you can speed up the cycle with some bacteria and ammonia. I just moved and am in the same process. Just started cycling the tank yesterday with Dr. Tim's bacteria and ammonia.

reefbizkit · Feb 28, 2017

Okay cool. Nice set up. I'll plop the rock and sand and keep buffing until optimal PH is achieved I guess. Any other suggestions or comments. Thanks again for all of your advice.

Robink · Feb 28, 2017

I wouldn't worry about the ph, it usually settles on its own. I don't add buffer.

saltyfilmfolks · Feb 28, 2017

reefbizkit said:
and keep buffing

dont. Let it roll.
Buffers "dose" alk unevenly. It'll lead to probs down the road. (cal and alk should be dosed together) Just get er goin and "monitor". The ph is going to change based on the new population of organisms using oxygen in the tank. Itll change sightly again as algae grows(making oxygen). You really don't need to do anything.

reefbizkit · Feb 28, 2017

Great, I've already buffed a couple of times trying to fix this on my own. I should have known better but it's been 5 years since our last reef. Thanks for the tips. Rock and sand arrive tomorrow and we'll let her buck from there. Thanks for the tips fellas.

reefbizkit · Feb 28, 2017

Do they sell covers for all Red Sea tanks? I've got the E260 rolling and wondering about jumpers... Just curious - I saw your lid on the tank pictured above.

Robink · Feb 28, 2017

I got that from artfully acrylic, here's the link:
http://artfullyacrylic.3dcartstores.com/ClearView-Lids_c_52.html

Randy Holmes-Farley · Mar 1, 2017

In the future, buffers are almost NEVER the best way to deal with low pH issues.

glb · Mar 1, 2017

I agree with everyone else that you don't need to chase pH. During the cycle, just keep an eye on ammonia and nitrates. Test the pH, because if it gets too low your cycle could stall. But if it's low, I agree with Randy that buffer isn't the way to go. If you can raise alk, that can help stabilize pH. Normally I would say add kalk, but I'm not sure if that's a good idea during a cycle. Hopefully someone (hint Randy) will chime in.

Forsaken77 · Mar 1, 2017

reefbizkit said:
Okay cool. Nice set up. I'll plop the rock and sand and keep buffing until optimal PH is achieved I guess. Any other suggestions or comments. Thanks again for all of your advice.

The rock and sand, or crushed coral mixed in, will help buffer the Ph to keep it at the proper levels so you don't have to keep adding chemicals. You have to have enough rock for the tank size. I always stick to 1 pound of rock per gallon of water.

reefbizkit · Mar 2, 2017

Thank you all for the feedback. The rock is in and overnight the PH has increased significantly.

beaslbob · Mar 2, 2017

put some macro algae in there and watch the pH climb.

Ph is a function of kh and co2. More co2 power ph. As plant life like algae consume co2 and return oxygen during lights on, pH will rise. IMHO what is important is the tank become a net consumer of co2 and producer of o2 each 24hour period.

1) always use the high range ph kit.
2) always measure pH just before lights out.

I also recommend you use Dr Randy Holme-Farley's improved diy 2 part system. It will not only "solve" and pH "problems" but also calcium, alk, and magneuium using inexpensive ingredients.

my .02

Dr Randy. send my payment to the beaslbob benevolence fund. LOL

For others reading this--I receive no payment. LOL

beaslbob · Mar 2, 2017

just to make it easier :

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php

Breadman03 · Mar 2, 2017

I wouldn't even bother testing your pH. Just watch for your ammonia spike to drop off, then for nitrates to start forming. After that, your parameters of greatest interest are salinity, calcium, magnesium, alkalinity, nitrates and phosphates. pH might be of interest, but isn't really something we tend to worry about.