What is eating my SPS?

Cfellini91

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I have had this coral for two months and everything has seemed fine. Last week I put a new LED light on my 24g tank. Today it looks like something has been eating off some of its polyps. Is something eating it or is the light too strong? I just placed it lower in the tank to watch how it will do. The first 2 pictures are from last week, the last 2 from today

In my tank:
1 Blood Shrimp
2 Percula Black Clowns
2 Green Clown Goby
1 Green Striped Mandarin Goby
6 snails
3 hermit crabs
IMG_2230.jpg
IMG_2265.jpg
IMG_2296.jpg
IMG_2297.jpg
 
Welcome to R2R.
I'd guess Acropora Eating Flat Worms (AEFW), or alkalinity issues?
The pattern of tissue loss looks more like AEFW.
 
That is something called stn or slow tissue necrosis. Imo it is not a pest (definitely not aefw because that is a montipora not an acro), but the result of an over abundance of "bad bacteria" on the coral. This bacteria is always present on corals, along with a plethora of other good and bad varieties, but a healthy coral will usually maintain a balance. In this case your coral appears to have been stressed and the "bad bacteria" have begun to take over the coral.

It's possible that the new leds were the cause but imo it is more likely that they were the "last straw" on top of some other stressors you arent aware of. Typically if the new lights are too strong you would just see some other (more minor) symptoms first, if that was all that was going on. It's also possible the lighting has nothing to do with it but the timing is obviously suspicious.

I can help you troubleshoot but id need some more info:

How are the other corals in your tank doing?
How old is your tank?
What equipment do you have on the tank?
Do you use carbon/gfo?
What are your parameters and how often do you test? I'm primarily interested in your salinity, temp, alkalinity, and nitrate/phosphate.
 
Last edited:
That is something called stn or slow tissue necrosis. Imo it is not a pest (definitely not aefw because that is a montipora not an acro), but the result of an over abundance of "bad bacteria" on the coral. This bacteria is always present on corals, along with a plethora of other good and bad varieties, but a healthy coral will usually maintain a balance. In this case your coral appears to have been stressed and the "bad bacteria" have begun to take over the coral.

It's possible the leds were the cause but imo more likely the "last straw" on top of some other stressors you arent aware of. Typically if the new lights are too strong you would just see some other more minor symptoms first if that was all that was going on.

I can help you troubleshoot but id need some more info:

How are the other corals doing in your tank?
How old is your tank?
What equipment do you have on the tank?
Do you use carbon/gfo?
What are your parameters and how often do you test? I'm primarily interested in your salinity, temp, alkalinity, and nitrate/phosphate.

BigJohnny
Thank you for that insight! That would make a lot of sense given this past week. I had to do a 45% water change due to extremely high nitrates, my KH was at 14 pH down to 7.8, magnesium 1200 calcium dropped from 420 to 340 over two days. I typically check everything every three days.

My other corals were ticked off, green hammer, green mushroom, another SPS Acropora, and a rose anenome. The tank was set up 8/3/18.
My tank is a 24g Aquatop. One powerhead, 3 chamber refugium on the back, carbon filter sponge-protein skimmer (was down for the past week and just got that up and running this afternoon) chateo- one basket of live rock for filter and return air pump.

Today my parameters are
Temp 78
Salinity 1.023
pH 8.4
KH 9
Calcium 460
Magnesium 1400
Iodide .06
Ammonia , Nitrite and nitrate tested at LFS and are all good.

All my corals have been looking happy these past couple days.
 
BigJohnny
Thank you for that insight! That would make a lot of sense given this past week. I had to do a 45% water change due to extremely high nitrates, my KH was at 14 pH down to 7.8, magnesium 1200 calcium dropped from 420 to 340 over two days. I typically check everything every three days.

My other corals were ****** off, green hammer, green mushroom, another SPS Acropora, and a rose anenome. The tank was set up 8/3/18.
My tank is a 24g Aquatop. One powerhead, 3 chamber refugium on the back, carbon filter sponge-protein skimmer (was down for the past week and just got that up and running this afternoon) chateo- one basket of live rock for filter and return air pump.

Today my parameters are
Temp 78
Salinity 1.023
pH 8.4
KH 9
Calcium 460
Magnesium 1400
Iodide .06
Ammonia , Nitrite and nitrate tested at LFS and are all good.

All my corals have been looking happy these past couple days.
Well there you go, imo the 14 dKH spike was the primary offender. Alkalinity fluctuations (and really any other fluctuations) are certainly more likely to stress sps corals like acropora and montipora then lps or softies, in general, so that is likely why all your other corals seem better (for now, sometimes things show up some time after the fact).

Now that you appear to have all your parameters in check (more on that later) and all the equipment back in place I would turn down those leds to about 50% of what they are at now, for at least a week, to reduce stress and give the monti a chance to recover. Dont move it again until its fully recovered.

Then all you can do is keep your parameters as stable as possible and then gradually acclimate your corals to the new light source over a month or so. I would see if you can borrow a par meter though because you may be DRASTICALLY changing the amount of light your corals are receiving so you want to at least make sure it's in a safe acceptable par range before you leave it there.

Now about the parameters, I have a few concerns/recommendations:

1. What do you mean your nitrate was good? How high did it go before the 45% water change? Just curious

2. Please dont rely on your lfs to test your water, get yourself some good test kits. What did you test yourself and what did they test?

3. I'd be surprised if your alk/calc/mag were that high at a salinity of 1.023, what salt mix do you use and what do you dose if anything? Do you target 1.023 for your tank? How was salinity measured?

4. Dont bother testing iodide, hobby grade test kits are useless for our application.
 
Welcome to R2R.
I'd guess Acropora Eating Flat Worms (AEFW), or alkalinity issues?
The pattern of tissue loss looks more like AEFW.
I don't think this is true sine the op is also showing the issue on a montipora digi
 
BigJohnny,
Thank you again! Your insight and knowledge is vastly appreciated!
A par meter? I have not heard of this, where can I find one? Unfortunately I do not know anyone else in the hobby here so I have no way to borrow one, would they be expensive to purchase? I will leave it where I set it and turn the lights down and allow the blues to mostly give light for a week.

I cannot recall what my nitrates were.

The only tests I have yet to pick up are Nitrate/Nitrite test and ammonia test. Every three days I test pH, KH, Calcium with API kits and a magnesium test kit from Red Sea. The manager at the LFS is really being helpful and doing his best to help walk me through the process as I get up and going. Next week he wants me to start dosing strontium and pick up a test kit for that as well. I drive past the LFS on my way to work and stop in every M/W/F and he tests the 3 with API kits. But will also pick the tree kits up next week.

I do not mix my own water, I buy it from the same LFS. The reason we (the manager and I) arrived at the conclusion for the KH/pH/ Calcium differentials was because of a 2 part calcium i was using I bought from another LFS and wasnt sure what to get. I was over dosing causing my KH to rise up the pH on top of the nitrate levels.

Right now I still use the swing arm hydrometer o(not 100% i know) and plan to get a refractometer next week as well. I try to stay within a certain price cap a month on what I spend on. So right now I will be gathering more tools and kits rather than fish and corals.

What are your thoughts?
Well there you go, imo the 14 dKH spike was the primary offender. Alkalinity fluctuations (and really any other fluctuations) are certainly more likely to stress sps corals like acropora and montipora then lps or softies, in general, so that is likely why all your other corals seem better (for now, sometimes things show up some time after the fact).

Now that you appear to have all your parameters in check (more on that later) and all the equipment back in place I would turn down those leds to about 50% of what they are at now, for at least a week, to reduce stress and give the monti a chance to recover. Dont move it again until its fully recovered.

Then all you can do is keep your parameters as stable as possible and then gradually acclimate your corals to the new light source over a month or so. I would see if you can borrow a par meter though because you may be DRASTICALLY changing the amount of light your corals are receiving so you want to at least make sure it's in a safe acceptable par range before you leave it there.

Now about the parameters, I have a few concerns/recommendations:

1. What do you mean your nitrate was good? How high did it go before the 45% water change? Just curious

2. Please dont rely on your lfs to test your water, get yourself some good test kits. What did you test yourself and what did they test?

3. I'd be surprised if your alk/calc/mag were that high at a salinity of 1.023, what salt mix do you use and what do you dose if anything? Do you target 1.023 for your tank? How was salinity measured?

4. Dont bother testing iodide, hobby grade test kits are useless for our application.
 
BigJohnny,
Thank you again! Your insight and knowledge is vastly appreciated!
A par meter? I have not heard of this, where can I find one? Unfortunately I do not know anyone else in the hobby here so I have no way to borrow one, would they be expensive to purchase? I will leave it where I set it and turn the lights down and allow the blues to mostly give light for a week.

Par meters are expensive so thats why i suggested borrowing one, you can ask your lfs. If that doesnt work out you can use a cheap lux meter or i believe good phones even have an app you can use worst case. @saltyfilmfolks can fill you in. I have a par meter so i have never messed around with lux. It can be very hard to tell how much light you are giving your corals just by looking so a lux or par meter will help you make sure you set up your leds safely. The alternative is if you have a fixture that other people use succesfully, ask them what their settings and mounting height from corals are and try to replicate that. When in doubt, less is better.

I cannot recall what my nitrates were.

The only tests I have yet to pick up are Nitrate/Nitrite test and ammonia test. Every three days I test pH, KH, Calcium with API kits and a magnesium test kit from Red Sea. The manager at the LFS is really being helpful and doing his best to help walk me through the process as I get up and going. Next week he wants me to start dosing strontium and pick up a test kit for that as well. I drive past the LFS on my way to work and stop in every M/W/F and he tests the 3 with API kits. But will also pick the tree kits up next week.

I do not mix my own water, I buy it from the same LFS. The reason we (the manager and I) arrived at the conclusion for the KH/pH/ Calcium differentials was because of a 2 part calcium i was using I bought from another LFS and wasnt sure what to get. I was over dosing causing my KH to rise up the pH on top of the nitrate levels.

Your tank is done cycling so you dont need a nitrite or ammonia test kit imo. It would not be a bad idea to have a nitrate test kit, i recommend red sea pro. I would suggest you buy a nicer test kit for dKH and calcium like salifert, but if you cant afford it then your api should work. Salifert test kits are very reputable, accurate, and cheap. There is no need to test pH as it changes throughout the day and day to day, plus you shouldnt try to control it, especially as a beginner. It will normally stay in an acceptable range. You do not need a strontium test kit, especially as a beginner. monitoring it is certainly not essential and you definitely dont need to just blindly dose strontium. Unfortunately your LFS owner doesnt quite know what hes talking about or he is just trying to sell you things.

I recommend you test alkalinity/calcium daily at the same time as you learn more about your tank and begin to dial in your 2 part dosing. Then once it is in check you can test less frequently if you like (i recommend weekly at a minimum), but most people who keep sps continue to test alkalinity daily. I recommend you always test alkalinity daily as you dial in your dosing/need to adjust it from time to time. This will prevent you from getting large dKH spikes like you had recently. magnesium shouldnt move too much once its in the right range so you can test it every 2 weeks or even monthly. once you start dosing you can calculate how much magnesium you need to add based on how much 2 part you are adding as well.

Right now I still use the swing arm hydrometer o(not 100% i know) and plan to get a refractometer next week as well. I try to stay within a certain price cap a month on what I spend on. So right now I will be gathering more tools and kits rather than fish and corals.

What are your thoughts?

Does your lfs tell you that he is giving you 1.023 water? there is no reason to run your reef at 1.023, the typical range is 1.024-1.026. swing arm hydrometers are notoriously inaccurate as you said so again do yourself a favor and buy that refractometer (i recommend bulkreefsupply.com if your lfs doesnt carry them). its possible hes giving you 1.024-1.026 and you are just testing it inaccurately. Also, i know your on a tight budget but you will save money in the long run by making your own rodi water and saltwater. You can also pick your salt mix based on what parameters you want your tank to run out, that way when you do water changes there wont be swings. In the meantime ask your lfs owner what salt mix he uses so you can look up the parameters of the water you are getting. Just something to think about.

If you find your salinity is actually at 1.023 you can either leave it there or raise it to 1.024-1.026 slowly. Do you have an auto top off or do you manually top off the tank? Either way thats essential to keep the salinity stable after you dial it in.

Depending on how many corals you have in your tank you may not even need to dose two part and weekly water changes would be sufficient to keep your parameters in check, you wont know unless you test consistently. You should never dose something unless you need to (because your test kits tell you so), it only complicates things and the goal is to keep everything as simple as possible and the tank as stable as possible.

If this all sounds like too much then you should consider sticking to easier corals like softies/lps until you are more experienced and then you can graduate to sps. They are more demanding and usually require more testing etc.

I strongly recommend you watch the following series on youtube. This will cover everything you need to know to run your tank succesfully. its definitely outdated but a good place to start. The second link is a much longer more in depth series. There is plenty you dont need to know in those but they do dive deeper in some of the topics you should be familiar with. it is also more recent/polished. Id watch the first series and then move onto the second.


 
@BigJohnny Again, thank you.

I will check with my lfs for a par meter. The light I bought many people with this tank use and recommend it so I am fairly confident with it.
Good call on picking the Nitrates test up. I am planning next week on get more red sea tests, (pH, KH, Calcium and Nitates). I test everything every other day (every morning at 8am, one hour after my light turns on)
Par meters are expensive so thats why i suggested borrowing one, you can ask your lfs. If that doesnt work out you can use a cheap lux meter or i believe good phones even have an app you can use worst case. @saltyfilmfolks can fill you in. I have a par meter so i have never messed around with lux. It can be very hard to tell how much light you are giving your corals just by looking so a lux or par meter will help you make sure you set up your leds safely. The alternative is if you have a fixture that other people use succesfully, ask them what their settings and mounting height from corals are and try to replicate that. When in doubt, less is better.



Your tank is done cycling so you dont need a nitrite or ammonia test kit imo. It would not be a bad idea to have a nitrate test kit, i recommend red sea pro. I would suggest you buy a nicer test kit for dKH and calcium like salifert, but if you cant afford it then your api should work. Salifert test kits are very reputable, accurate, and cheap. There is no need to test pH as it changes throughout the day and day to day, plus you shouldnt try to control it, especially as a beginner. It will normally stay in an acceptable range. You do not need a strontium test kit, especially as a beginner. monitoring it is certainly not essential and you definitely dont need to just blindly dose strontium. Unfortunately your LFS owner doesnt quite know what hes talking about or he is just trying to sell you things.

I recommend you test alkalinity/calcium daily at the same time as you learn more about your tank and begin to dial in your 2 part dosing. Then once it is in check you can test less frequently if you like (i recommend weekly at a minimum), but most people who keep sps continue to test alkalinity daily. I recommend you always test alkalinity daily as you dial in your dosing/need to adjust it from time to time. This will prevent you from getting large dKH spikes like you had recently. magnesium shouldnt move too much once its in the right range so you can test it every 2 weeks or even monthly. once you start dosing you can calculate how much magnesium you need to add based on how much 2 part you are adding as well.



Does your lfs tell you that he is giving you 1.023 water? there is no reason to run your reef at 1.023, the typical range is 1.024-1.026. swing arm hydrometers are notoriously inaccurate as you said so again do yourself a favor and buy that refractometer (i recommend bulkreefsupply.com if your lfs doesnt carry them). its possible hes giving you 1.024-1.026 and you are just testing it inaccurately. Also, i know your on a tight budget but you will save money in the long run by making your own rodi water and saltwater. You can also pick your salt mix based on what parameters you want your tank to run out, that way when you do water changes there wont be swings. In the meantime ask your lfs owner what salt mix he uses so you can look up the parameters of the water you are getting. Just something to think about.

If you find your salinity is actually at 1.023 you can either leave it there or raise it to 1.024-1.026 slowly. Do you have an auto top off or do you manually top off the tank? Either way thats essential to keep the salinity stable after you dial it in.

Depending on how many corals you have in your tank you may not even need to dose two part and weekly water changes would be sufficient to keep your parameters in check, you wont know unless you test consistently. You should never dose something unless you need to (because your test kits tell you so), it only complicates things and the goal is to keep everything as simple as possible and the tank as stable as possible.

If this all sounds like too much then you should consider sticking to easier corals like softies/lps until you are more experienced and then you can graduate to sps. They are more demanding and usually require more testing etc.

I strongly recommend you watch the following series on youtube. This will cover everything you need to know to run your tank succesfully. its definitely outdated but a good place to start. The second link is a much longer more in depth series. There is plenty you dont need to know in those but they do dive deeper in some of the topics you should be familiar with. it is also more recent/polished. Id watch the first series and then move onto the second.


and check pH and KH daily (since last week) to maintain the parameters.

I stopped using the 2 part and dose everything individually, this way it will be more precise. I have perfect water parameters right now.

I had the lfs test the salinity 2 days ago and it was at 1.025 and say they mix their water to stay 1.024-1.026 (Which is how i know the hydrometer is not a dependable tool).

I do manual topoffs on my tank. It stays at a consistent level.
 
@BigJohnny Again, thank you.

I will check with my lfs for a par meter. The light I bought many people with this tank use and recommend it so I am fairly confident with it.
Good call on picking the Nitrates test up. I am planning next week on get more red sea tests, (pH, KH, Calcium and Nitates). I test everything every other day (every morning at 8am, one hour after my light turns on)

and check pH and KH daily (since last week) to maintain the parameters.

I stopped using the 2 part and dose everything individually, this way it will be more precise. I have perfect water parameters right now.

I had the lfs test the salinity 2 days ago and it was at 1.025 and say they mix their water to stay 1.024-1.026 (Which is how i know the hydrometer is not a dependable tool).

I do manual topoffs on my tank. It stays at a consistent level.

cool. What light are you using?

Just fyi I would advise against purchasing the red sea alkalinity test, it is very hard to see the color change. Salifert is much easier. I do like the red sea calcium pro test kit though.
 
I would by a Hanna checker Phosphourus meter instead of the PAR meter.
If You use a Lux meter and divide by 60 You are in the neighbourhood of a correct PAR value. Measure just over the water level and divide the value with 2 and you are just under the water level. Dont take the value too serious. It can be 50 or 200 percent of the correct value but normally not worse than that.
 

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