What is growing in my tank?

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MrChris

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We have had this tank setup for 8 weeks after moving it. It was set up for 2 years prior to me receiving it.
Everything has bee. Running smooth, however the last few days I have been noticing a "bloom" of something? It is growing on 2 of my powerheads and appears orange, but appears red on my overflow. The snails are eating it somewhat whatever it is.

The only change in the tank is we started feeding a frozen pre rinsed blend food.
Is the addition of organics causing this?

I had my LFS test my water the day before I started feeding the new food. I will post those results below along with a photo of what I need help identifying and eradicating.

Thanks for any help.

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Its possible that you are either experiencing a mini cycle due to the move (especially if the sandbed was disturbed). In the alternative, you may be feeding too much and just getting an algae bloom. Also, based on the test results, your Phosphates may be a little high, if the reading is accurate. It should be around .03. That being said, I am unsure how accurate that sheet and the test is since they are saying it should be below 1, and showing you have 0 mag... or was that not tested?
 
Powerhead looks like diatoms

Unrelated but I'm curious why mag is 0 and everything else is on par...
 
Its possible that you are either experiencing a mini cycle due to the move (especially if the sandbed was disturbed). In the alternative, you may be feeding too much and just getting an algae bloom. Also, based on the test results, your Phosphates may be a little high, if the reading is accurate. It should be around .03. That being said, I am unsure how accurate that sheet and the test is since they are saying it should be below 1, and showing you have 0 mag... or was that not tested?
It went through a cycle when I moved it, which was over 8 weeks ago, but I am past it now I am pretty sure.

As far as the test goes, Mike at Elite Reef in Denver tested both tanks for me.
Both tanks came in at 0 mag.
I cant understand how. I am using Kent Marine Salt, which has added mag. They are both FOWLR right now, and the tests were done 48 hrs or so after a water change.

The tank is a 75 gallon with a 20 gallon Sump. Sump has a skimmer, and I run a BRS dual reactor with GFO and Carbon.
 
.frkzwn stuff
 
It went through a cycle when I moved it, which was over 8 weeks ago, but I am past it now I am pretty sure.

As far as the test goes, Mike at Elite Reef in Denver tested both tanks for me.
Both tanks came in at 0 mag.
I cant understand how. I am using Kent Marine Salt, which has added mag. They are both FOWLR right now, and the tests were done 48 hrs or so after a water change.

The tank is a 75 gallon with a 20 gallon Sump. Sump has a skimmer, and I run a BRS dual reactor with GFO and Carbon.

Yeah, I dont trust those numbers. 0 Mag would be highly irregular. Also, if you are running GFO, carbon, and skimmer, its unlikely you have .25 phosphates unless you feed off the chart.

Also, is there a guideline as to how much to feed of the frozen stuff?

Really depends on the amount of fish you have and what kind.
 
Yeah, I dont trust those numbers. 0 Mag would be highly irregular. Also, if you are running GFO, carbon, and skimmer, its unlikely you have .25 phosphates unless you feed off the chart.



Really depends on the amount of fish you have and what kind.
We have a pair of clowns, a pair of staghorn, a banghai cardinal, a yellowtail damsel, yellow tang, tuxedo urchin, emerald crab, 5 astrea snails, 1 turbo snail, 4 nassarius snails, 2 hermit crabs.

As far as feeding goes, we are feeding a piece the size of a quarter both in diameter and thickness, twice a day.
The tank is free of food in the water collum 2 or 3 minutes after feeding
 
We have a pair of clowns, a pair of staghorn, a banghai cardinal, a yellowtail damsel, yellow tang, tuxedo urchin, emerald crab, 5 astrea snails, 1 turbo snail, 4 nassarius snails, 2 hermit crabs.

As far as feeding goes, we are feeding a piece the size of a quarter both in diameter and thickness, twice a day.
The tank is free of food in the water collum 2 or 3 minutes after feeding

The best way to find out how much to feed is to observe the fish in their feeding. What I personally do is get a mix of frozen and eyeball how much I think they would need (erring on the side of less than more). Then instead of dumping all of it in at once, I dump it in a few portions. Then I observe the fish until I notice that they aren’t as ravenous and their bellies are plump. If I have left over, I either put in fridge until the next day, or more often just toss the extra. If not enough, I just adjust the next day. After a few times you’ll get a good idea of how much to give. Some days they get a little less, others a bit more.

That being said, your feeding doesn’t seem excessive. Although maybe slightly on the higher side. I prefer the water to be done feeding in a minute or so. Fish can eat a lot in 3 minutes.
 
Oh I did want to add a few more things. First, if you have GFO, and the phosphate level showing is accurate, then you definitely have an overfeeding issue. Second, even if GFO is doing its job, you can have elevated Nitrates that could cause algae, GFO will not remove that.

I would reduce feeding a little bit, increase flow, replace GFO (as it can get exhausted very quickly if your system is high phosphates, sometimes even in a matter of days or hours). And if possible, look into your own test kits so you know that the results are accurate. It’ll be the most beneficial step for you in the long run. Salifert is a pretty good, moderately priced brand. Hanna checkers are high end, but I would only get the Alk and Phosphorous ULR (which can be used to convert phosphate readings). The other Hanna ones are too complicated, salifert will do better in the other areas.
 
Oh I did want to add a few more things. First, if you have GFO, and the phosphate level showing is accurate, then you definitely have an overfeeding issue. Second, even if GFO is doing its job, you can have elevated Nitrates that could cause algae, GFO will not remove that.

I would reduce feeding a little bit, increase flow, replace GFO (as it can get exhausted very quickly if your system is high phosphates, sometimes even in a matter of days or hours). And if possible, look into your own test kits so you know that the results are accurate. It’ll be the most beneficial step for you in the long run. Salifert is a pretty good, moderately priced brand. Hanna checkers are high end, but I would only get the Alk and Phosphorous ULR (which can be used to convert phosphate readings). The other Hanna ones are too complicated, salifert will do better in the other areas.
The LFS test was mainly for phosphates and mag, as I dont have those tests, and to compare the rest with mine.
I just tested again and my nitrates are at 0 per my test.

Just changed my GFO before this bloom occurred. I have been changing it every 2 weeks just for piece of mind.

I am thinking my best bet here is to cut the feeding in half and order the rest of what I need test wise.

Would 3 days in the dark to kill whatever this is help, as well as not cause any other issues
 
The LFS test was mainly for phosphates and mag, as I dont have those tests, and to compare the rest with mine.
I just tested again and my nitrates are at 0 per my test.

Just changed my GFO before this bloom occurred. I have been changing it every 2 weeks just for piece of mind.

I am thinking my best bet here is to cut the feeding in half and order the rest of what I need test wise.

Would 3 days in the dark to kill whatever this is help, as well as not cause any other issues

Personally, I wouldn’t go to that extreme yet. Try the reduced feeding. Also, although you moved the tank over 8 weeks ago, there is definitely a chance for blooms to occur after the move. Tanks after a big move or when first cycle can take up to 6 months to settle in. Also, if your snails go for the algae, get a few more and let them dig into it. If those changes and some extra time don’t help, then you can look at that potom some more.
 
It's algae, maybe diatoms. I wouldn't worry about it. I get brown algae on the surfaces of my tank continuously; its part of a healthy tank. Test your nutrient levels certainly, and then have critters that will graze it (like the snail is doing).
 

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