What is meant by "turning off your RODI unit?"

SallyWho

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I feel a little stupid for having to ask this. Is there a way to stop making water without having to turn off the water at the source or waiting for the barrel to fill all the way and trigger the float valve? Granted, I'm only just filling my 40g barrel for the first time, but I've had to replace parts on the float valve, adjust for a leak, and leave the house, so I've crawled under the bathroom sink where the water lines are hooked up and turned off the cold water there so nothing bad would happen. Can I just add a ball valve to the source water line when I don't want to make a full barrel's worth of RODI, so I don't have to keep crawling under the bathroom vanity?
 
I have a valve on the water out side and on the water in side. I only turn off the out side. The in side valve is there for when I will need to change filters.
 
I have a valve on the water out side and on the water in side. I only turn off the out side. The in side valve is there for when I will need to change filters.
Perfect! That's what I needed to know! Thank you!
 
That would be great- a picture never hurts.
I got carried away with the valves I guess. The plumbing I installed on the pipe for a permanent connection has a valve. It shuts the cold off to the sink too though. So if i want to shut water off to the RODI unit only, I use the one closer to my hand. The valve on the line going to the RODI unit I was holding it up because I have a long hose. I have no clue why I made the hose that long.

The 2nd pic I have 2 shut offs. Only one is really necessary. I didn't want to lose the other one so I stuck it on the end.

After I fill my jugs or my bucket or whatever I shut off one or both of the valves on the "out" side. That pressurizes the line and turns it off.

Like I said, of the 2 on the out side, only 1 is necessary.
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I ran plumbing to where my RODI is. I used a valve on the hard plumbing and another valve for the transition from plumbing to 1/4” line into RODI. Also have an inline valve. Three different valves in case I have to do work on different areas.

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You can buy 'em in a big bag off of Amazon for a few bucks.

Inline push connect 1/4" ball valves. I've probably got 8 of them in my RO/DI system, in one place or another. Can't imagine having a system without them.

Lets see:
On incoming water source
on outgoing water source from RO membrane, branches to an RO storage tank, need to be able to shut that off.
On line from RO storage tank before it goes to fridge icemaker/water source
on line from RO storage tank to drinking water faucet at sink
On outgoing water from the DI side, before it runs under the house to the sump room
On incoming line in the sump room, before it is split.
on line running to ATO reservoir, before the solenoid valve and the float valve
on line running to water change station, before solenoid and float valves
on free line in sump room, for miscellaneous use

Ok, so it's 9 :)
 
I have a tap and 3 valves. When i shut mine off i clse the tap on producting then waste then incoming that keeps all the filters and membranes wet then i also shut off the supply tap
 
Wouldn't it be better to turn off the input so you aren't leaving the membrane under pressure?

In many setups, ASOV (Auto Shut Off Valve) closes incoming water when outgoing water is stopped, sufficient pressure builds to activate diaphragm shut off valve. Pressures should all be equal.

I'm not big on the ASOV's typically used in RO/DI systems. Had one to many of them fail on me. I like to use a premate pump. Does the same job, plus equalizes outgoing and incoming pressure, and is way more reliable.
 
Turning off the RO/DI system usually entails allowing it to pressurize fully so it shuts itself off. The ASOV (Auto Shut Off Valve on the top behind the membrane housing) will stop water from entering the system. By closing the output side of the RO system, the ASOV can do its job. Occasionally you will need to replace a ASOV on the RO system -- for me, it lasts 3 years or more. When it is off, no waste water comes out and the unit is 100% silent.

Some people turn off the cold water side. This is a wise move, because it prevents your home from being flooded in case a fitting decides to let go.

Myself, I turn off the water going out of the system first, to pressurize it. This turns off the system, and the booster pump switches off automatically. Then I turn off the water going into the RO system with an inline ball valve as an extra precaution.

I've been running one since 2002 for my reef tanks. And I sell them, so I've got some decent insight into this topic.
 
I feel a little stupid for having to ask this. Is there a way to stop making water without having to turn off the water at the source or waiting for the barrel to fill all the way and trigger the float valve? Granted, I'm only just filling my 40g barrel for the first time, but I've had to replace parts on the float valve, adjust for a leak, and leave the house, so I've crawled under the bathroom sink where the water lines are hooked up and turned off the cold water there so nothing bad would happen. Can I just add a ball valve to the source water line when I don't want to make a full barrel's worth of RODI, so I don't have to keep crawling under the bathroom vanity?

There is much great information already given to you in this thread so a big shout out to all those who contributed.
I just wanted to let you know there is no silly or stupid questions so always feel free and comfortable asking what you must to understand what you need. We have all been new to many things in life and unsure of what is or is not, Plus we have all had those face palm moments too haha.
Good luck and happy reefing.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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