What is the best method of nutrient control?

[showey472]

I am looking at setting up a 74 gallon tank with a sump in the back room and was wondering what the thoughts were on what method works best for a mixed reef tank? Between 2 part dosing, the ZEOvit system, the Triton method or the RedSea Reef Care Program.

 

[Bouncingsoul39]

What you're asking requires several paragraphs if not more worth of answers. Do yourself a favor and start reading and watching. Here's a great source: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcJv2rQDivg8NwXIxydJ86A

 

[PatW]

What might work best depends on your goals and just how much your corals are taking up. In a system the size of 74 gallons, the most cost effective approach just might be two part combined with a robust water change schedule.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I am looking at setting up a 74 gallon tank with a sump in the back room and was wondering what the thoughts were on what method works best for a mixed reef tank? Between 2 part dosing, the ZEOvit system, the Triton method or the RedSea Reef Care Program.

Are those the only choices we get? lol

 

[Bouncingsoul39]

Are those the only choices we get? lol

Those are the choices Randy. Choose one and like it! [emoji2]

 

[sneub]

Well, I would say water changes, macro algae and a bit of carbon to start out.

 

[showey472]

Thanks for the comments. I am currently leaning towards using a 2 part system or maby trying zeovit since the triton method requires a refugium of 15% of the water volume to work properly.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Thanks for the comments. I am currently leaning towards using a 2 part system or maby trying zeovit since the triton method requires a refugium of 15% of the water volume to work properly.

Just to be clear, the title says nutrient control, and some of the methods you suggest impact nutrients (e.g., Zeovit), but a two part is not a nutrient control system. It is a way to add calcium and alkalinity.

 

[AcroNem]

For nutrient control (not the other parameters you mentioned) water changes for sure are the best method.

 

[jhameeh]

My nutrient control, AF pro bio S and NP Pro combined with filtration media like Siporax.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

For nutrient control (not the other parameters you mentioned) water changes for sure are the best method.

I don't agree.
There are tons of good ways to reduce nutrients (GFO, aluminum oxide, organic carbon dosing, growing macroalgae ATS, skimming, denitrators, etc.) , but water changes are usually not the best, at least by themselves, especially for phosphate. Even a 100% change won't drop phosphate to 0 ppm.

 

[AcroNem]

I agree those are great ways to reduce nutrients. Some very quickly and efficiently. But If we're talking an easy method for someone setting up a system, I'm going to say they do water changes. Of course run some kind of phosphate reducer, but when starting, water changes.

 

[AcanthurusRex]

I decided to use AquaForest -NP Pro. It looked like a more precise method verses bio-pellets.
I cycled the tank artificially using RedSea Reef Mature kit but used AF -NP Pro instead of NO3O4-X. Nitrates went up to about 5 ppm and stayed there until I added fish in march '17, almost 3 months after the initial start. The addition of 2 clown fish kick started the bacteria. I started to get the slime on any surface with significant flow. I stopped all dosing of -NP Pro and the Pro BIOS when the slime started. NO3 and PO4 dropped to zero. I still can't get any NO3/PO4 in the water and I'm overfeeding 10+ fish including a good sized tang. Just bought the Hanna Ultra Low Range Phosphorus kit since the low range has never measured anything, it read zero.
If you use carbon dosing don't blindly follow the instructions.