What is this and WHY....

[Delatedlotus]

Tank is completely covered with like a brown stain.. And I don't know what to do and why.. New kit water test Ammonia = 0... Nitrite = 0... Nitrate = 40... PH = 8.2.. Phosphate = 0... And I just can't keep this from coming back. I did a lot not to long ago.. Chem Clean two months ago(got rid of the green) , Added my fuge back with sox's and cheato 2 weeks ago, and added a UV sterilizer in line 2 weeks ago. This has completely taken over my tank.. I have been using to large power head to try to clean off rock.. It does temporarily... Lights on to long? Or what.. Please if you have advice I really need it.. I have a lot of rock... right?.. Thanks Rod

 

[ScottB]

1) Can we get a picture under white lights please?
2) How many months old is the system?
3) Does the brown growth relate to your light cycle, meaning it is not bad just as the lights come on but worsens throughout the light cycle?

 

[Delatedlotus]

Be right back..

 

[Delatedlotus]

 

[Delatedlotus]

 

[Delatedlotus]

I have blown a lot of it off the rock and sox's are picking some. I have a Diatom running to capture even more with not much powder at all, it gets a lot.. Fug is starting to brown up as well..

 

[Delatedlotus]

Trying to get a good picture of this phenomenon I know nothing about..

 

[EverydayAquarist]

Trying to get a good picture of this phenomenon I know nothing about..

This is an undesirable algae, diatoms or cyano, not a desirable one which is what this forum is for try https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/nuisance-algae-including-bacteria.631/ you might have better luck

 

[ScottB]

uhhh.... the last pic is pretty damning. I was going to ask if it was snotty/stringy and trapping gas bubbles.

Hopefully I am wrong, but looks like dinoflagellates. If I am right, hopefully just ostreopsis which has fairly clear protocols to knock it back.

Questions:
1) enough pics
2) how old is system?
3) Does growth accelerate with light cycle?
4) How old is your nitrate test result and which test kit?

I'll assume you don't have a microscope handy, so here is how you can confirm dinos vs something else:
a) take a 1/4 cup or so water sample with a bunch of that snot in it and shake it up hard.
b) pour that through a coffee filter (paper towel might work too) into another glass container
c) Let it sit for 15 minutes and see if it coagulates back together

 

[Delatedlotus]

Old tank set up.. 20+ years. Was dosed for years with EVS ..?. Cheato crashed a year ago why I don't know. Quit fug.. lighting a little older bulbs new ones needed T5's. I will get soon. I have leds I will use for now. It seens to definitely worsen with long light times. Cut back to 4 hours a day..

 

[Delatedlotus]

Fresh teat kit API... I will try what you suggested.. Right now

 

[ScottB]

I'll be offline for a while, so in case this does turn out to be dinos (meaning the dinos that passed through the coffee filter clumped back together) I'll give you a suggestion. If they did not, that is good. You might want to restart your post in the nuisance algae forum as suggested before.

There are several schools of thought in battling dinos. I don't believe any methods have had more rigorous dissection than the methods proposed in this linked thread. >7800 posts. I like it because it is species specific (amphidium, procentrum, ostreopsis, coolia) in how to treat. In my personal experience, I am 2 wins and no losses against ostreopsis.

Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

I don't know what percentage of folks had luck battling dinos with any of the methods in the old Dino thread but it's obviously a very low percentage, so I'd like refresh folks on the natural alternatives and lay out three areas of info: some of the factors that contribute to a dino outbreak...

www.reef2reef.com

The first few pages detail your initial steps for identification. Then provide links to addressing the species you have once IDd.

Generally, UV helps kill 3 out of four, so make sure your UV is working properly. Like old T5's, they lose strength over time. Less than a year you should be OK. Ideal wattage is 1 watt per 3 gallons or better. Slower flow through it is better for more contact time.

Also generally, you have to dose NO3 and PO4 so that you have nutrient. You are trying to encourage other organisms to outcompete the dinos.

 

[Delatedlotus]

It all bunched together.. ... I have been reading about Hydrogen Peroxide dossing.. And I am going to try it...

 

[Delatedlotus]

First of Thank You.. You are very versed in saltwater, the closest water next to Holly Water.. I am going to 3% peroxide my system tomorrow.. What do you think of that..? Is it ok..? I have read and read, nothing but good, and YouTubed it as well. No mention of a fug full of cheato. But I will remove it from my system before dossing. I don't think that would be a good out come... lol. Ideas..? They seen to be adding MB 7 as well but I just don't know when to add it.. Thanks Rod

 

[ScottB]

You are welcome and good luck. I am not experienced with the H2O2 method. There are many seriously experienced reefers who deploy H2O2 but I have not joined them (yet). I have read about it several times, and you can find a one-page guide on the method by googling Elegant Corals website. There is a PDF there.

I have gently debated with a few folks on it, because I don't understand HOW it works, and what I should expect to happen with my parameters. The answers I get are just, like, "I don't know how it works, but it works."