What is YOUR Quarantine process?

[Daniel@R2R Verified Admin]

This thread is a place for you guys to talk about your process for quarantining new additions. This includes all steps from acquisition to the DT. How do you handle receiving them, how long is your process, what preemptive meds do you use (if any)? At what point do you move them to the DT, and how do you introduce them? (And any other questions I've forgotten.)


I realize some people don't QT, but in the spirit of keeping this thread on topic, please don't turn this into a discussion of QT vs non-QT (there are other threads for that).

 

[fishdoctor]

Steven,
Good to see you are finally getting your new tank you won at MACNA set up.
Give me a call I'd love to help you with live stock if I can. I quarantine all livestock a minimum of 30 days before I sell it, and treat with prazi and copper as needed. Happy to give advice as well, best of luck to you.
Michael

 

[Lionfish Lair]

I no longer medicate prophetically. I QT for about 3 months to fatten and condition and give them a lot of oral supplements. When they first go in, I give probiotics for a bit and then when they are ready to move to the display, I start them up again about 2 weeks prior.

 

[Brew12]

This thread is a place for you guys to talk about your process for quarantining new additions. This includes all steps from acquisition to the DT. How do you handle receiving them, how long is your process, what preemptive meds do you use (if any)? At what point do you move them to the DT, and how do you introduce them? (And any other questions I've forgotten.)


I realize some people don't QT, but in the spirit of keeping this thread on topic, please don't turn this into a discussion of QT vs non-QT (there are other threads for that).

Step 1) Beg Humblefish to open a store that specializes in selling pre-quarantined fish.
Step 2) Buy fish from Humblifish aquatics and add to DT.

But, since he isn't cooperating with steps 1 and 2 I've had to develop a different method.

Step 1) Fill QT at least 3 days in advance with salinity matching where I am purchasing the fish.
Step 2) Add Biospira to HOB
Step 3) Float fish to match temp, open bag and test salinity to verify.
Step 4) Shipping water gets dumped through a strainer and fish goes into QT.
Step 5) Watch for 3 days.
Step 6) Assuming no sign of velvet or ich dose Prazi.
Step 7) 4 days later, dose Prazi again
Step 8) 2 days later run carbon for 1 day.
Step 9) Gradually dose Coppersafe over 3 days to 2ppm
Step 10) Over the next 15+ days maintain copper while raising salinity to match DT
Step 11) Fish goes into DT

 

[alyee5]

I do the same as Brew12 up to step 7.
I don't use copper but have it on hand.
Step 8) I observe for 4 weeks then place in DT.

 

[alyee5]

Also I raise salinity by toppoing off with fresh salt mix during the 4 weeks of observation

 

[melypr1985]

I'll play! I haven't bought any new fish in a while, but with the big tank going up I'll need to break out the QT regime again.

1. I mostly buy fish that I've seen and cared for at the LFS I work at. If it's something I ordered just for me I have to take it home that day, so I don't take it out of the shipping bag. I float them in the tanks so they keep temp and take it home.
2. I temp and salinity match the shipping/tank water with the QT and just release.
3. I run TTM with Prazi and I'm ready to switch to copper if needed.
4. After TTM (assuming all went well) I watch them for another week or two then release them into the display (again assuming all went well with observation)
Notes: I always feed vitamins and frozen food. I spend a lot of time trying to fatten them up as much as possible. This doubles during observation since there usually aren't any meds keeping them from eating well. I keep copper and several types of antibiotics on hand as well as Ruby Reef Rally. I feel this is pretty darn simple to do and I happen to have several spare tanks to use and a large garage to keep them in when not in use.

 

[Brew12]

I keep copper and several types of antibiotics on hand as well as Ruby Reef Rally

I knew I was missing one! grrrr

Had all these before I purchased my first fish. I might be paranoid.

 

[jsker]

I do not want to get banded

 

[bknapp]

Mine mirrors whats mentioned above.

Day 1-3 (day 1 is considered first full 24 hours): Observe, feed heavily with varied foods.

Day 4: If eating and no prevailing issues I start PraziPro.

Day 8: 5 Gallon Water Change

Day 9: Repeat Prazi

Day 12: 5 Gallon Water Change

Day 14: If all is still going well and fishes are still eating I slowly start adding copper. I've been using Mardels CopperSafe these last few rounds. I have used Cupramine and CopperPower in the past. I prefer uisng a chelated copper (CopperSafe and CopperPower.)

Days 15-18: Get Copper into theraputic levels (1.5-2.0 with chelated copper.) After dosing on the 18th day I test the copper level (API for chelated) and if in theraputic level start the 14 day countdown on Day 19 if below bring to theraputic level and start countdown.

Days 19-34 Test and redose copper as needed to stay within theraputic levels.

Day 35: Add Poly Filter, 5 gallon water change.

Once copper is completely removed start transistion to DT. Add fish into DT via acclimation box for minimum of 48 hours and if all is well they are released into general population.

I also keep a white board on the wall next to the QT to keep notes of dosing levels, dates and any other pertinent information.

 

[Daniel@R2R Verified Admin]

Does anyone use SafetyStop as part of the QT process?

 

[bknapp]

Does anyone use SafetyStop as part of the QT process?

I think @melev does, I have seen him post about it on FB. My LFS sells it but I am yet to try it.

 

[Triggreef]

Mine is very similar to @melypr1985 but i change some aspects depending on the fish.

Most fish i will do ttm just like she describes. With prazi on alternating transfers. Acclimation is only matching specific gravity of the bag water on the fly. Never ever drip acclimate it does more harm than good.

On Leopard wrasse and some Hallichoerus wrasse i start in a 72g fully established tank and dose prazi the 1st day that they eat. Then a partial water change and new dose of prazi 5 days after the first. Followed by 30 days observation. If ich is suspected then ttm will be the next step followed by straight into the tank.

I have a large fish trap made with egg crate zip tied together. It doubles as an acclimation box if i anticipate issues with a new addition.

 

[Maritimer]

I generally do drip acclimate, but I also have never bought fish online and had them shipped. LFS only, so far, and not more than two hours or so in the bag.

Tried TTM once, and lost all the fish, so now I use chelated copper and Prazi-Pro in a 40B with an Aqua-Clear 110 and a powerhead on it, as well as a heater. Ideally, I try to hit two doses of Prazi and then move into copper for 30 days or so. The QT is in my living room, on the opposite side of the room from the DT, so observation isn't difficult. Always perform any maintenance on the DT _before_ doing anything with QT!

So far, it mostly works - but there have been some disasters. A few due to disease, more, I suspect, because I did something wrong.

~Bruce

 

[mcs]

Setting up an observation tank with a separate small hospital tank. Our idea was to observe new fish and only treat if necessary. If we do this is it unwise to put rock and a refugium into the observation system?

 

[TheEngineer]

Setting up an observation tank with a separate small hospital tank. Our idea was to observe new fish and only treat if necessary. If we do this is it unwise to put rock and a refugium into the observation system?

The issue with putting a fuge and rockwork is that if you do find a pest you need to toss any macro algae and the rockwork. Rock can absorb medications and release it later when you don't want it. It also gives parasites something to attach to and you can't effectively sterilize it. Same with macro algaes.

 

[melypr1985]

Setting up an observation tank with a separate small hospital tank. Our idea was to observe new fish and only treat if necessary. If we do this is it unwise to put rock and a refugium into the observation system?

It's never recommended to have live rock or sand or even macro algae in the QT in case you need to treat with meds. It's simpler and easier to have it set up for medications from the start.

 

[Daniel@R2R Verified Admin]

It's never recommended to have live rock or sand or even macro algae in the QT in case you need to treat with meds. It's simpler and easier to have it set up for medications from the start.

So what I'm understanding is that those fish that normally live/sleep in the sand bed will be ok without the sand for the purpose of QT, correct?

 

[melypr1985]

So what I'm understanding is that those fish will be ok without the sand for the purpose of QT, correct?

For the most part yes. The only exception would be with some of the more delicate wrasses that bury in the sand at night. I would then only have a small amount of brand new sand in a dish for him to bury in and be more comfortable. The small amount lessens the problems caused by absorption and keeps the sand contained.

 

[Daniel@R2R Verified Admin]

For the most part yes. The only exception would be with some of the more delicate wrasses that bury in the sand at night. I would then only have a small amount of brand new sand in a dish for him to bury in and be more comfortable. The small amount lessens the problems caused by absorption and keeps the sand contained.

Thanks @melypr1985! You might have noticed that I got the threads confused that I was responding in. LOL