What kind of check valve?

  • Thread starter Thread starter dd7070
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None

dd7070

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 3, 2012
Messages
57
Reaction score
0
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Do you use check valve for the return pipe or hose line?
Let's share of yours. Which company's you use and why you use that and how much spent for part...etc.

I must get a check valve asap. Please recommend me.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
 
You really don't want to depend on check valves. They have a high probability of failing.

Having said that, I have a wye check valve along with a syphon break hole on my return line in my 50 .
George Fisher Wye Check Valve - Bulk Reef Supply
 
Hey mfinn,
What is the company of your 240Gallon tank made?
And what camera do you use for the pictures?
 
Absolutely not!
Check valves in a reef system are a disaster waiting to happen, its not if but when and it will happen.

With a properly designed return there is absolutely no reason for a check valve or drilled holes. an air gap is the most simple foolproof method of backsiphonage prevention and cannot fail. It also requires zero maintenance, adds no additional head loss and cannot be defeated since we all know water cannot jump uphill.
 
Absolutely not!
Check valves in a reef system are a disaster waiting to happen, its not if but when and it will happen.

With a properly designed return there is absolutely no reason for a check valve or drilled holes. an air gap is the most simple foolproof method of backsiphonage prevention and cannot fail. It also requires zero maintenance, adds no additional head loss and cannot be defeated since we all know water cannot jump uphill.

So when the power out water falls back into sump pump through return line, how can I prevent that happen without check valve AZDertRat?
 
Your returns should be placed slightly below the display surface level so with a very small, easily calculated, amount of backflow they are exposed to atmosphere and the siphon breaks. Since water cannot jump uphill they cannot possibly cause a flood. You always maintain a small amount of freeboard or spare capacity in your sump to contain this small amount of water. Most skimmers work best with say 8-9" of depth anyway so you should already have romm in the sump.

In my case, I have a 100G display which is 60" long by 18" front to back and my returns are placed 3/4" below the surface. 60"x18"x0.75"/231 = 3.5 gallons of backflow worst case. Once the level drops 3/4" one or both returns is exposed and the siphon stops guaranteed, it cannot continue so the flow ceases to the sump.

So my 30G sump needs to have 3.5 gallons of freeboard at all times. My skimmer sits in 8" of water and that is where my bafflles are placed so I have another 4" or height or about 10 gallons of extra empty capacity in my sump at all times so I never ever have to worry about a flood and can sleep soundly at night.

You would never want to run your sump completely full anyway so its the best most foolproof method. Check valves fail every day, it does not have to be a catastrophic failure, even a grain of sand, flake of food, algae, small snail, anemone, whatever can stick on the seat and even that trickle will flood given time. Same with drilled holes, you can clean the holes out this morning but who is to say your turbo snail doesn't park over the hole(s), a piece of algae breaks loose, your prized goby or other small fish doesn't get sucked up against it etc. Both require maintanance and there is no guarantee they will work when needed. An air gap due to exposing the returns cannot fail and requires no maintenance.
 
Absolutely not!
Check valves in a reef system are a disaster waiting to happen, its not if but when and it will happen.

With a properly designed return there is absolutely no reason for a check valve or drilled holes. an air gap is the most simple foolproof method of backsiphonage prevention and cannot fail. It also requires zero maintenance, adds no additional head loss and cannot be defeated since we all know water cannot jump uphill.

+1

by adjusting levels and anti siphon holes there is never never a need for a check vavle.

my .02
 
Drilled holes are no safer than a check valve, they require maintenance and are no guarantee. Keep the returns close to the surface and plenty of freeboard in the sump and its never an issue.
 
Drilled holes are no safer than a check valve, they require maintenance and are no guarantee. Keep the returns close to the surface and plenty of freeboard in the sump and its never an issue.


My current 240 has been running for 5+ years with my siphon break holes and before that the 180 I had used a siphon break holes and that tank was up for 7+ years.
Over this time period we have had 2-4 power outages a year. Never had a problem.
When I do my bi-monthly water changes I clean around the holes and inside without fail. Just part of my routine.
I'm not going to reccomend this for anyone else, but it works for me.
 
Hey mfinn,
What is the company of your 240Gallon tank made?
And what camera do you use for the pictures?


It's a 5 year old Glasscages tank.
I've used a couple different cameras. A Nikon 8700 point and shoot and a Nikon D80.
 
Could you show me your system by pictures?
I'll show you mine tomorrow morning.

+1

by adjusting levels and anti siphon holes there is never never a need for a check vavle.

my .02
 
Cool. Nice camera too.
I have D200 old camera. Bought it 5yrs ago.
Recently I bought a Leica V-Lux 2.
It is good but need to be very closed to take macro picture. So both of camera not good enough for me.

It's a 5 year old Glasscages tank.
I've used a couple different cameras. A Nikon 8700 point and shoot and a Nikon D80.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top