What makes a "stable" tank

[djd3mon]

Ive been in the saltwater aquarium hobby now for about 7 months. Ive had my downs and finally my ups. I have lost more high end SPS than I care to admit to myself. I've recently bought a dosing pump (cheap Jebao) and have begun to dose B-Ionic Alkalinity & Calcium. Also going to start supplementing AcroPower weekly. Purchased an APEX system to keep things automated and this is a real game changer vs manual dosing, etc.

So to my main question. What makes a stable tank? When I first entered the hobby I understood what stable meant but not in an aquarium sense. Let me see if I have this correct.

(These numbers may vary from user to user, this is what I believe is right for my tank for the research I have done)

1. Keep pH at 8.30 without major fluctuation.
2. Keep Calcium at 420 - 430 by dosing daily. Increase dosage as you add corals or corals grow.
3. Keep Alkalinity at 9 - 10 dKH by dosing daily. Increase dosage as you add corals or corals grow.
4. Keep Magnesium at 1350 ppm by dosing.
5. Keep Salinity at 1.024 - 1.026 (Check a couple times a week with refractometer)
6. Use ATO with clean and fresh RODI water to maintain salinity
7. Do weekly 10 -25% water changes. (Fun, Fun, Fun!)
8. Keep Temp at 78 (use quality heater controlled by APEX)
9. Keep phosphates at 0.03 (run GFO and clean tank weekly or bi-weekly)
10. keep Ammonia and Nitrate at 0 (should never really be an issue since no fish are present)
11. Keep Nitrate under 10 ppm. (will be managed by weekly water changes)
12. Dip all corals to prevent pests, RTN, STN...etc

Am I missing anything?

 

[twilliard]

Stable IMO is little to no fluctuation in set parameters. I do not like to see my numbers look like the $DJI (did I get that ticker right)
I do not change water
I only run a infusion pump doser.

 

[Coastie Reefer]

I think the Alk may be a little high for low nutrient systems. I've read it should be closer to 8 dKH, but I'm still learning the SPS ropes too so take that for what it's worth...

 

[twilliard]

9-10 Dkh will be "ok" at 10ppm No3 and what.. .02 Po4

 

[kenjung]

I learn from experience after lost of a few prize SPS, I found that simpler filtration is better. My SPS reef is 400 gallon I am running high feeding and high export, No additive, No chemical filtration, No Bio Pellet, Yes Refugium and Dual chamber Calx to take the edge of CO2, Skim extra extra wet, PH is between 8.20 to 8.3+, KH is 10 to 11, No3 is 2 to 5 Red Sea, I don't measure phosphate. So far this method has been rock stable.

 

[djd3mon]

Stable IMO is little to no fluctuation in set parameters. I do not like to see my numbers look like the $DJI (did I get that ticker right)
I do not change water
I only run a infusion pump doser.

How do you not do water changes? What and how does an infusion pump? Thanks

 

[john.m.cole3]

Like twillard was hitting on. the relationship between nitrates and alkalinity will dictate the rest of your parameters. So nitrate is at 10 ppm, then alk should be a little higher because of the higher nutrient load. If you run a low nutrient system with nitrate around 5 ppm, alk should be lowered also, like around 8 dkh. the alkalinity component and nutrient levels have a close relationship. It sounds like you have learned a lot in 7 months.

 

[twilliard]

I keep track of my tank through Triton when it comes to trace elements.
I am one of the few you will hear about that does not change water. The only reason IMO to change water is to export buildup of No3 and Po4 which I do not have a problem in. I actualy add these.
An infusion pump.. hmm.. think of it this way. Drip by drip 24 hours a day. Can not get more consistent (stable) than that. About 1 drip every 3 minutes at 1ml an hour

 

[john.m.cole3]

the triton method is designed to minimize water changes. The infusion pump is like an IV pump with a steady drip for dosing. The infusion pump keeps parameters uber stable

 

[Brew12]

Ive been in the saltwater aquarium hobby now for about 7 months. Ive had my downs and finally my ups. I have lost more high end SPS than I care to admit to myself. I've recently bought a dosing pump (cheap Jebao) and have begun to dose B-Ionic Alkalinity & Calcium. Also going to start supplementing AcroPower weekly. Purchased an APEX system to keep things automated and this is a real game changer vs manual dosing, etc.

So to my main question. What makes a stable tank? When I first entered the hobby I understood what stable meant but not in an aquarium sense. Let me see if I have this correct.

(These numbers may vary from user to user, this is what I believe is right for my tank for the research I have done)

1. Keep pH at 8.30 without major fluctuation.
2. Keep Calcium at 420 - 430 by dosing daily. Increase dosage as you add corals or corals grow.
3. Keep Alkalinity at 9 - 10 dKH by dosing daily. Increase dosage as you add corals or corals grow.
4. Keep Magnesium at 1350 ppm by dosing.
5. Keep Salinity at 1.024 - 1.026 (Check a couple times a week with refractometer)
6. Use ATO with clean and fresh RODI water to maintain salinity
7. Do weekly 10 -25% water changes. (Fun, Fun, Fun!)
8. Keep Temp at 78 (use quality heater controlled by APEX)
9. Keep phosphates at 0.03 (run GFO and clean tank weekly or bi-weekly)
10. keep Ammonia and Nitrate at 0 (should never really be an issue since no fish are present)
11. Keep Nitrate under 10 ppm. (will be managed by weekly water changes)
12. Dip all corals to prevent pests, RTN, STN...etc

Am I missing anything?

I would add routinely cleaning LED lenses or the reflectors in MH or T5 lights. Annual replacement of T5 bulbs, also.

 

[twilliard]

I would add routinely cleaning LED lenses or the reflectors in MH or T5 lights. Annual replacement of T5 bulbs, also.

And heatsinks fans!

 

[djd3mon]

I learn from experience after lost of a few prize SPS, I found that simpler filtration is better. My SPS reef is 400 gallon I am running high feeding and high export, No additive, No chemical filtration, No Bio Pellet, Yes Refugium and Dual chamber Calx to take the edge of CO2, Skim extra extra wet, PH is between 8.20 to 8.3+, KH is 10 to 11, No3 is 2 to 5 Red Sea, I don't measure phosphate. So far this method has been rock stable.

very nice! What do you feed if I may ask?

 

[djd3mon]

I keep track of my tank through Triton when it comes to trace elements.
I am one of the few you will hear about that does not change water. The only reason IMO to change water is to export buildup of No3 and Po4 which I do not have a problem in. I actualy add these.
An infusion pump.. hmm.. think of it this way. Drip by drip 24 hours a day. Can not get more consistent (stable) than that. About 1 drip every 3 minutes at 1ml an hour

Forgot to add Triton test. I have yet to do one but want to do one here pretty soon.
Ive thought about using the drip method at one point but never went any further that just a thought.
very interesting.

 

[thabizness]

I currently have a Alk of 8.5 (hanna). Nitrates of 2 (red sea) and phosphates between .02 and.04 (hanna ul).

Should I keep my alk lower than 8.5 with my nutrients? My tank is doing alright but I think it can be better. I do have some cyanobacteria on sand and rocks.

 

[twilliard]

Forgot to add Triton test. I have yet to do one but want to do one here pretty soon.
Ive thought about using the drip method at one point but never went any further that just a thought.
very interesting.

Its cool to me having something that is used to save lives (icu IV pump) being used to keep a tank stable

 

[twilliard]

I currently have a Alk of 8.5 (hanna). Nitrates of 2 (red sea) and phosphates between .02 and.04 (hanna ul).

Should I keep my alk lower than 8.5 with my nutrients? My tank is doing alright but I think it can be better. I do have some cyanobacteria on sand and rocks.

Po4 is a tad high but you are fine. Your tank will tell you when something is not to their likings

 

[djd3mon]

Like twillard was hitting on. the relationship between nitrates and alkalinity will dictate the rest of your parameters. So nitrate is at 10 ppm, then alk should be a little higher because of the higher nutrient load. If you run a low nutrient system with nitrate around 5 ppm, alk should be lowered also, like around 8 dkh. the alkalinity component and nutrient levels have a close relationship. It sounds like you have learned a lot in 7 months.

I never knew this. Looking back at my test Ive done on my tank the highest my No3 has been was 5ppm. I will have to do some research on this and adjust my ALK.
Thank you

 

[djd3mon]

the triton method is designed to minimize water changes. The infusion pump is like an IV pump with a steady drip for dosing. The infusion pump keeps parameters uber stable

So is the Triton method and the Triton tests you send off and get back your results different?

 

[djd3mon]

Po4 is a tad high but you are fine. Your tank will tell you when something is not to their likings

I always thought you had to keep po4 at 0.03 or else the corals would basically die. hmm.

 

[twilliard]

So is the Triton method and the Triton tests you send off and get back your results different?

The triton method is a whole different story then the approach you are taking.