it seems like different of my torches over time have their fleshband recede. they look good otherwise-for now. but im kinda worried about it. can someone clue me in on what causes it? or what it means? TIA!
what makes torch fleshband recede?
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bump
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ok back again. life got in the way 
parameters are as follows sal.-1.024, phos.-.90, alk.-7.5, nitrate -30.1, cal.- 546, ph 7.79, temp 77.7. done with hanna testers. im sure my nitrates are high because i have been feeding heavy lately due to getting a CBB. been trying to get him to eat! here are a couple of pics
parameters are as follows sal.-1.024, phos.-.90, alk.-7.5, nitrate -30.1, cal.- 546, ph 7.79, temp 77.7. done with hanna testers. im sure my nitrates are high because i have been feeding heavy lately due to getting a CBB. been trying to get him to eat! here are a couple of pics
Uncle99
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A potential cause is not enough flow.
Torches need good flow too keep them clean.
Those aptasia are going to really bug that hammer. They must be removed. They can sting the white band.
Unstable water chemistry in addition or both, or all three.
Torches need good flow too keep them clean.
Those aptasia are going to really bug that hammer. They must be removed. They can sting the white band.
Unstable water chemistry in addition or both, or all three.
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ive been moving the one sitting on the bottom around trying to make it happy. it actually is looking much better than a couple of months ago. it had been on deaths door. i just want to make sure im doing everything i can. they are good on the flow i think. are you calling it unstable water chem because of the high nitrates?
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and thats why the CBB 
MarsReefer
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I can’t comment on the flow from pictures but you have aptasia likely stinging your torches, your phosphates are literally off the chart, your salinity and alk are a little low, and calcium too high.
I’d tackle the alk first and get it above 8 since that’s easy.
Phosphates are tricker. It’s likely going to take a long time and money to get them back down from that level. Start with adding some GFO, go slow so you don’t shock anything.
Your CBB will hopefully eat the aptasia long term, but immediately move the torches away from any that can sting the torch flesh.
The calcium is high but likely not an issue. The nitrates are also high but also not an issue imo.
Basically you have an extremely unfriendly tank for coral right now. Likely only some hardy softies will survive long term as you have it now.
I’d tackle the alk first and get it above 8 since that’s easy.
Phosphates are tricker. It’s likely going to take a long time and money to get them back down from that level. Start with adding some GFO, go slow so you don’t shock anything.
Your CBB will hopefully eat the aptasia long term, but immediately move the torches away from any that can sting the torch flesh.
The calcium is high but likely not an issue. The nitrates are also high but also not an issue imo.
Basically you have an extremely unfriendly tank for coral right now. Likely only some hardy softies will survive long term as you have it now.
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ok. whats GFO? like carbon?
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nevermind. i figured out what it is.
SnazzyUrchin792
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I would recommend carbon dosing (like Red Sea NOPOX) over GFO. It will help bring your nitrates down as well.
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ok. i have this. will this be ok?
SnazzyUrchin792
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That’s exactly what I’m talking about.
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perfect. thanks!!
bubbgee
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Dose it slowly. There should be a calculator on the redsea site on dosing. I am supposed to be at 3ml but decided to do it at 1ml to 2ml based on how much feeding I've used. Wrong dosage can trigger a crash.
JayM
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Before dosing anything, make absolutely certain that your test results are not due to test error/expired reagents. I'm definitely not an expert on the matter, but I am experienced enough to know that stuff happens.
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I'm surprised you're not testing magnesium. Magnesium at 1400 and above is what euphyllia prefers for growth. Alk is too low as well because your calcium is at 500+. Alk and Cal are inversely proportional (if I remember).ok back again. life got in the way
Water change would help changing your baseline too before dosing.
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good thought. ill double test.
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i can test my mag. ill go ahead and do it. i have a salifert test. i had read on one of randys threads that he thinks its a waste of time and money to test that (if i remember right). so i quit bothering
