What option would you try?

  • Thread starter Thread starter RMS18
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None

What would you try?

  • Bio-pellet reactor

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Full spectrum light and cheato

    Votes: 2 100.0%
  • Try cheato with Kessil h380 again

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Do nothing and see what happens

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    2

RMS18

I keep water chemistry as my hobby
View Badges
Joined
Aug 21, 2015
Messages
2,887
Reaction score
2,165
Location
The Shore
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
The system is 6 months old, I have a minimalist scape. 4 brighwell blocks in the sump along with rock. 13 fish.. feedings are 5-6 cubes throughout the day. Small squirts each feeding.

The issue I was having was cheato will not grow for long as hair algae ends up growing on it and suffocating it until it does off. I was using a kessil h380, which BRS has identified to grow hair Algea. I spent close to $200 on clean cheato now. Attempted to grow it 3 times now.

I'm at a cross road and wanted some opinions. My po4 is under control thanks to gfo now. But po3 remains 10-12. The acros are brown, and being this tank will be sps dominant I need to work on the excess nutrients.

I do have some small patches of green hair growing in the display. However when I run the fuge light with cheato not only does the fuge become covered in brown film/ slime and green hair but it increases in the DT.

I like the idea of trying a full spectrum, and rid of the gfo, but not sure of the outcome.

Options:
Bio-pellet reactor
Change sump light to a full spectrum
Try cheato again with Kessil h380
Do nothing

Any other suggestions?

Thank you!
 
I'm personally a fan of carbon dosing, I've found it more easily controllable compared to reactors and less hassle than fuges. However, I would be surprised if 10-12 nitrate is the reason your acros are browning out. That's actually ideal levels IMO. Hope you can find your ideal solution :)
 
I'm personally a fan of carbon dosing, I've found it more easily controllable compared to reactors and less hassle than fuges. However, I would be surprised if 10-12 nitrate is the reason your acros are browning out. That's actually ideal levels IMO. Hope you can find your ideal solution :)

Well 10-12 is what my test is reading.. the current algae is consuming some so I'd assume there is more than what's showing up on the test kit.
 
The system is 6 months old, I have a minimalist scape. 4 brighwell blocks in the sump along with rock. 13 fish.. feedings are 5-6 cubes throughout the day. Small squirts each feeding.

The issue I was having was cheato will not grow for long as hair algae ends up growing on it and suffocating it until it does off. I was using a kessil h380, which BRS has identified to grow hair Algea. I spent close to $200 on clean cheato now. Attempted to grow it 3 times now.

I'm at a cross road and wanted some opinions. My po4 is under control thanks to gfo now. But po3 remains 10-12. The acros are brown, and being this tank will be sps dominant I need to work on the excess nutrients.

I do have some small patches of green hair growing in the display. However when I run the fuge light with cheato not only does the fuge become covered in brown film/ slime and green hair but it increases in the DT.

I like the idea of trying a full spectrum, and rid of the gfo, but not sure of the outcome.

Options:
Bio-pellet reactor
Change sump light to a full spectrum
Try cheato again with Kessil h380
Do nothing

Any other suggestions?

Thank you!
I caution you to be very careful. I did something similar and then fought dinos for over a year. They wiped out many things in my tank. My tank was about 2 years old but I had moved over rocks, fish, and corals, that were 5-15 years old from a previous tank. I ran gfo, then upped my chaeto light with the h380. I believe I depleted my tank of phosphates to the point where many things could not grow and dinos took over. I first found the slime in the chaeto.

If I were you, I would remove gfo and chaeto and monitor you nutrient levels and animal health.
 
Algae is a natural part of a reef, don't let it bother you. Why grow chaeto if you are able to grow gha in your sump? Gha is a great tool and a core of ATS. Regularly harvest it and you will have a fantastic nutrient export system.
 
I caution you to be very careful. I did something similar and then fought dinos for over a year. They wiped out many things in my tank. My tank was about 2 years old but I had moved over rocks, fish, and corals, that were 5-15 years old from a previous tank. I ran gfo, then upped my chaeto light with the h380. I believe I depleted my tank of phosphates to the point where many things could not grow and dinos took over. I first found the slime in the chaeto.

If I were you, I would remove gfo and chaeto and monitor you nutrient levels and animal health.

I'm running gfo at the moment because I do not have cheato running. If I went back to cheato the gfo would come off line.
 
Algae is a natural part of a reef, don't let it bother you. Why grow chaeto if you are able to grow gha in your sump? Gha is a great tool and a core of ATS. Regularly harvest it and you will have a fantastic nutrient export system.
Algae is a natural part of a reef, don't let it bother you. Why grow chaeto if you are able to grow gha in your sump? Gha is a great tool and a core of ATS. Regularly harvest it and you will have a fantastic nutrient export system.

The GH then grows more in the DT when it's growing in the sump. To the point GH grows over the frags. It takes a lot work to keep my pumps and probes cleans. The GH grows right back within 2-3 days.
 
The GH then grows more in the DT when it's growing in the sump. To the point GH grows over the frags. It takes a lot work to keep my pumps and probes cleans. The GH grows right back within 2-3 days.

This might be due to the design of your sump, can you describe it? Your fuge light is more than adequate. At the initial stages of my tank the ATS growing gha helped keep my DT relatively clean. Perhaps decreasing the photo period in the DT until the fuge starts producing might be necessary.
 
This might be due to the design of your sump, can you describe it? Your fuge light is more than adequate. At the initial stages of my tank the ATS growing gha helped keep my DT relatively clean. Perhaps decreasing the photo period in the DT until the fuge starts producing might be necessary.

It's a trigger sapphire 36.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top