What Phosphate Hanna Test?

[Mmcghee102485]

Wanting to get a Hanna tester for phosphate. But looks like there is 3 different test kits. Which one are you guys using? Thanks

 

[Pistondog]

Wanting to get a Hanna tester for phosphate. But looks like there is 3 different test kits. Which one are you guys using? Thanks

I bought the low, most recommend the ultra low.
PO4 Target for some finicky corals is below the error of the low, so you cant discern if you are OK.

 

[Reef.]

Wanting to get a Hanna tester for phosphate. But looks like there is 3 different test kits. Which one are you guys using? Thanks

the ultra low is probably the one you want, if you want your phosphate lower than .9

 

[Mmcghee102485]

I bought the low, most recommend the ultra low.
PO4 Target for some finicky corals is below the error of the low, so you cant discern if you are OK.

i have some softies and lps currently, my Red Sea kit is reading 0 for P04. I’m curious if it is actually just above 0. So I’m looking for a more accurate approach.

 

[Reef.]

i have some softies and lps currently, my Red Sea kit is reading 0 for P04. I’m curious if it is actually just above 0. So I’m looking for a more accurate approach.

I use the Elos phosphate high resolution test kit, highly recommended it.

 

[Pistondog]

the ultra low is probably the one you want, if you want your phosphate lower than .9

The low specs

• Range: 0.00 to 2.50 ppm (mg/L)
• Resolution: 0.01 ppm (mg/L)
• Accuracy: +/- 0.04ppm (mg/L) +/- 4% of Reading

the ultra low specs

Range:	0.00 to 0.90 ppm
Resolution:	0.01 ppm
Accuracy 77° F / 25° C:	±0.02 ppm ±5% of reading

Either will work, the ultra low has twice the accuracy at the expense of range.

 

[Fishko]

I have the ulr in ppm. i like it a lot. The phosphorous in ppb you would need to convert which could get annoying. And the high range i feel is, well, too high for my application. Brs made a good quick video explaining the two

 

[Reef.]

The low specs

• Range: 0.00 to 2.50 ppm (mg/L)
• Resolution: 0.01 ppm (mg/L)
• Accuracy: +/- 0.04ppm (mg/L) +/- 4% of Reading

the ultra low specs

Range:	0.00 to 0.90 ppm
Resolution:	0.01 ppm
Accuracy 77° F / 25° C:	±0.02 ppm ±5% of reading

Either will work, the ultra low has twice the accuracy at the expense of range.

I agree, BRS did a video on this, the normal phosphate test was shown not to be very accurate at all at the lower end.

 

[nereefpat]

ULR phosphorous. The conversion is simple, multiply by 3 and move the decimal.

 

[Pistondog]

i have some softies and lps currently, my Red Sea kit is reading 0 for P04. I’m curious if it is actually just above 0. So I’m looking for a more accurate approach.

I like all the hanna checkers and the milwaukee salinity checker. Give me a number not a color.
But everyone has their preferences.

 

[BobT]

I use the Phosphate ULR PPM and like it!

 

[Mmcghee102485]

I have the ulr in ppm. i like it a lot. The phosphorous in ppb you would need to convert which could get annoying. And the high range i feel is, well, too high for my application. Brs made a good quick video explaining the two

this is a good video, however I’m even more confused so now I see they have a phosphate ultra low and phosphorus ultra low. I understand the math involved with the phosphorus test, which doesn’t bother me. So I guess my question which is the one to go with, the phosphate ul or phosphorus ul and why? Sorry still learning...

 

[Fishko]

this is a good video, however I’m even more confused so now I see they have a phosphate ultra low and phosphorus ultra low. I understand the math involved with the phosphorus test, which doesn’t bother me. So I guess my question which is the one to go with, the phosphate ul or phosphorus ul and why? Sorry still learning...

No worries. I was really confused too when buying mine. Id personally go with the ul phosphate for simplicity, both are great. But since you are going softy and lps your phos is probably not gonna go over .20ppm max. Probably going to stay at .05-.08ppm maybe lower. And once you want to jump to sps you will be set.

 

[92Miata]

this is a good video, however I’m even more confused so now I see they have a phosphate ultra low and phosphorus ultra low. I understand the math involved with the phosphorus test, which doesn’t bother me. So I guess my question which is the one to go with, the phosphate ul or phosphorus ul and why? Sorry still learning...

ULR Phosphorus

• Range: 0 to 200 ppb (0 - .61 ppm)
• Resolution: 1 ppb (.003ish ppm)
• Accuracy: ±5 ppb ±5% of reading ( 0.015 ppm +- 5%)
  
  
  ULR Phosphate:
  
  • Range: 0.00 to 0.90 ppm
  • Resolution: 0.01 ppm
  • Accuracy: ±.02 ppm ±5% of reading

The phosphorus one has higher resolution/accuracy, but my experience has been that reef tanks are so individual that the higher accuracy at this point isn't hugely useful - as consistency is more important than absolute numbers. (IE, I don't care that my tank is at .06 vs .055 - I do care that it isn't suddenly reading at .1, or 0). The extra detail is of less value to me than converting is a hassle.



For people running ULR systems, this may not hold true.

 

[Potatohead]

this is a good video, however I’m even more confused so now I see they have a phosphate ultra low and phosphorus ultra low. I understand the math involved with the phosphorus test, which doesn’t bother me. So I guess my question which is the one to go with, the phosphate ul or phosphorus ul and why? Sorry still learning...

They are the same thing, one just does the math for you. Also the phosphate ulr ppm allows eight minutes down time before shutting off, instead of three like the older phosphorous one, which is nice.

 

[Caseyoidae]

Ulr phosphorus hi-736 is what I use. Phosphate lingers just above 0.

 

[92Miata]

They are the same thing, one just does the math for you. Also the phosphate ulr ppm allows eight minutes down time before shutting off, instead of three like the older phosphorous one, which is nice.

I keep forgetting about that - I've never used the ULR Phosphorus one - but my understanding is that you really need to be on the ball to keep it from timing out during the shake/etc stage.

That's probably a bigger deal than the math thing.

 

[Caseyoidae]

I keep forgetting about that - I've never used the ULR Phosphorus one - but my understanding is that you really need to be on the ball to keep it from timing out during the shake/etc stage.

That's probably a bigger deal than the math thing.

Ya, the 736 gives you three minutes, two of which you have to shake the curvette. The other minute is for adding reagent ect. Kind of a short window so I use a stop watch lol

 

[Potatohead]

Ya, the 736 gives you three minutes, two of which you have to shake the curvette. The other minute is for adding reagent ect. Kind of a short window so I use a stop watch lol

Same, and it's fine, but you do have to prepare the reagent before hand and what not. I am used to it now but a longer time frame wouldn't be a bad thing.

 

[Mmcghee102485]

All great info! Thanks again all, gotta love this site! Great learning tool.