What stage RODI unit ?
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MrDLHughesY
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New rodi unit first use. Run the unit without membrane in until water runs clear through both the fresh and waste water pipes. Then insert membrane and disconnect the di resin and run for 30minutes then I’m good to go ? Does this sound right ?. I did not realise actually how big a unit was haha. What do you do in between making water with the membrane do you take it out and keep it sealed to keep it wet ? Then what do you do when you come to make new water again do you run it for a minute or so to flush it ? Thanks in advance
I think I killed my first batch of SPS about 9 years ago due to not knowing how to properly use my RO DI... so you are smart to study up on this!
You should use an inline tds meter with two probes. Put one after the RO membrane and one after the DI output.
1. For the new cartridges... rinse the carbon blocks, then, rinse the RO membrane, finally, rinse the DI until the TDS meter shows 0 tds at the final product. Having an inline tds meter after the RO membrane and after the DI is the best way to verify that you have rinsed enough at each stage... you are trying not to foul the downstream module with the carbon powder and other factory gunk of each new component.
2. Tell us about your water making. Are you going to just make a batch once per month... or make a little every day, or leave it connected directly to the ATO (not recommended)? Are you going to leave it hooked up to the water supply, or just take it on and off?
Each time the membrane starts up after sitting for awhile... it will spill some dissolved solids into the DI resin. On your inline tds meter... it will come out of the RO membrane at say... 14 tds, and then after a few minutes drop to something like 1 to 4 tds. No big deal... but, if you dump this before it hits your DI, your DI will last longer. In this vein, it is better to make large batches on long continuous runs, versus lots of small batches of water. Some people will create a manual DI bypass to use when the RO membrane starts up - but I don't bother with that.
On my previous system, I had a 60 gallon brut can full of RO DI water, with a timer and a float valve. I would make water during a single cycle each day, rather than have it constantly turning on and off each time there was tank evaporation.
I am not sure what to do if you unhook or system from the tap between uses. I am guessing you could just put in some shutoffs to keep it wet??
There are some other tricks to making the RO membrane last longer, by using flush valves to rinse the waste side of the membrane for example. Lots to learn about this part of your system and you will probably be tweaking it as long as you are reefing!
You should use an inline tds meter with two probes. Put one after the RO membrane and one after the DI output.
1. For the new cartridges... rinse the carbon blocks, then, rinse the RO membrane, finally, rinse the DI until the TDS meter shows 0 tds at the final product. Having an inline tds meter after the RO membrane and after the DI is the best way to verify that you have rinsed enough at each stage... you are trying not to foul the downstream module with the carbon powder and other factory gunk of each new component.
2. Tell us about your water making. Are you going to just make a batch once per month... or make a little every day, or leave it connected directly to the ATO (not recommended)? Are you going to leave it hooked up to the water supply, or just take it on and off?
Each time the membrane starts up after sitting for awhile... it will spill some dissolved solids into the DI resin. On your inline tds meter... it will come out of the RO membrane at say... 14 tds, and then after a few minutes drop to something like 1 to 4 tds. No big deal... but, if you dump this before it hits your DI, your DI will last longer. In this vein, it is better to make large batches on long continuous runs, versus lots of small batches of water. Some people will create a manual DI bypass to use when the RO membrane starts up - but I don't bother with that.
On my previous system, I had a 60 gallon brut can full of RO DI water, with a timer and a float valve. I would make water during a single cycle each day, rather than have it constantly turning on and off each time there was tank evaporation.
I am not sure what to do if you unhook or system from the tap between uses. I am guessing you could just put in some shutoffs to keep it wet??
There are some other tricks to making the RO membrane last longer, by using flush valves to rinse the waste side of the membrane for example. Lots to learn about this part of your system and you will probably be tweaking it as long as you are reefing!
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MrDLHughesY
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Hi thanks for the response, I will be making about 10 gallon at a time which will last me a few weeks as I currently only have a 13.5 gallon tank but soon to be setting up an ea pro reef 900 aswell. The Unit will be fed from an outside water tap Which will be disconnected between use.
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MrDLHughesY
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Maybe if I put a shut before the unit and after the di resin and shut them both off that should keep the unit full.
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MrDLHughesY
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Finally got my rodi at the weekend but after setting it up it was only making 1litre of water every 9mins so I have since purchased a pump and now it’s doing it in 3 minutes
Roytrolls247
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I am running a BRS 4 stage on my Mixing station (I cleaned up all of the lines afterward) 
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MrDLHughesY
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Yeah I’ve got a duo TDS metre so it reads after the membrane and after the di resin but tbh my TDS is 0 after my membrane.
Nice I hope to do this eventually but don’t know where to even start. Also if I was to use a float in an water container what would I have to install for it to **** my pump off when the float stops the water because the container is fullI am running a BRS 4 stage on my Mixing station (I cleaned up all of the lines afterward)
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MrDLHughesY
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The start are meant to be shut
JumboShrimp
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I absolutely love my BRS 6-stage, but to me it’s the Booster Pump which makes all the difference in the world in terms of efficiency and speed.
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MrDLHughesY
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100%
I absolutely love my BRS 6-stage, but to me it’s the Booster Pump which makes all the difference in the world in terms of efficiency and speed.
Roytrolls247
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That is my float switch it was $8 on amazon BRS sells it too.. When the water gets too the switch it shuts everything off.
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MrDLHughesY
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How does it **** the pump off back pressure or something ? Tak it your Greg is in the top and you salt in the bottom ? Do you have a pump in the bottom one connected to the pipes ?
Roytrolls247
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Yes I have a submersible pump in the Saltwater bin. All I have to do is flip a switch it turns the pump on and I open the valve on the bottom.. I can take a Picture when I get home.
borillion
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So might as well add my questions on here, does the TDS determine the number of stages needed?
What about added phosphates, will 3 to 4 PPM be filtered out by a 4 stage?
Looks like in the last 5 years according to this table it avg 47 for me but has gotten as high as 500 mg/L.
** Also note the max recorded pH.
Def test your water coming out of the tap before you use it.
What about added phosphates, will 3 to 4 PPM be filtered out by a 4 stage?
Looks like in the last 5 years according to this table it avg 47 for me but has gotten as high as 500 mg/L.
** Also note the max recorded pH.
Def test your water coming out of the tap before you use it.
