What TDS is your tap?

What is your tap tds?

  • 0-50

  • 50-100

  • 100-200

  • 200-300

  • 400-600

  • 600+!!


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Well, if you have the triple checker one, with 3 separate reading points, you should calibrate it even though they say it's factory calibrated. I've rarely, if ever, gotten a piece of equipment that was perfectly calibrated from the factory. You just calibrate one of them and all 3 get calibrated that way. But the only real one that matters is the one for your product water to make sure it's zero.
Not sure what the triple checker is. Mine checks water in and water out. And I'm happy with out being 0
 
50-55 out of my well. I was paranoid about moving onto a well and burning through DI but a cartridge lasts about a year. When I was on city water I'd use one every 3-4 months.
First stage RO-DI reads 2
 
Not sure what the triple checker is. Mine checks water in and water out. And I'm happy with out being 0

Oh, no I was referring to the one that BRS usually puts on all of there units and is the most common inline model. Instead of in and out, there's a third measurement unit. That's what I meant by triple checker. I use it myself to get a general guideline. And that's fine that your cool with your results, your tank. You asked a question and I was responding. I just thought you saw the triple inline version before.
 
Does "Holy good God high" count?
Was 1485 before water softener, and about 400 after.
I change my DI resin as often as I change my socks.....
Do you aerate the RO water before letting it go through the DI. I also have well water and it exhausted my Resin quickly but now I have a 55 gallon drum that fills with RO, the RO aerate for 24 hours then I pump it through the DI. My resin lasts for about a month now
 
Do you aerate the RO water before letting it go through the DI. I also have well water and it exhausted my Resin quickly but now I have a 55 gallon drum that fills with RO, the RO aerate for 24 hours then I pump it through the DI. My resin lasts for about a month now

Do you flush the membrane for a bit before you use it to get all of the TDS creep out?
 
In New Orleans, Louisiana. We drink from the Mississippi River...which is the same river 2/3 of the US takes a dump in :D We also rank lowest in education, may be a correlation. Income TDS is 250 most of the year, but is under 200 when the river is very low, usually in the fall, early winter.

My RO/DI rig has been heavily pimped :D. I have two pressure gages, collect TDS at 5 locations and have valves anywhere and everywhere I could fit them. My operation is to open my RO to waste valve and my RO flush valve, then turn the RO on. I flush the RO for about 10-30 seconds. I then monitor the TDS in and TDS out relative to the RO. I wait until the TDS out hits about 7 ppm. It generally starts around 10 to 20 and then very quickly jumps to over 100 and then slowly falls back down. This is the dreaded TDS creep. Once it his 7, I close the RO waste valve and open the RO to DI valve. I then begin my chores. It takes about a minute to waste the TDS creep. I am contemplating a future Apex Jr with the new solenoids to automate this operation.
 
Do you flush the membrane for a bit before you use it to get all of the TDS creep out?
Yep. The sediment, carbon and RO are plumbed into the supply water for my water heater. The RO outlet has a T'd line that runs to my barrel and to my water heater drain . When I turn on the water to the filters I let it run down the drain for 5 minutes and usually my TDS at this point is 5. The tds going to the DI isn't the issue it's the PH of the water. Aerating it brings it up to at least 8 then it gets pumped through the DI
 
Yep. The sediment, carbon and RO are plumbed into the supply water for my water heater. The RO outlet has a T'd line that runs to my barrel and to my water heater drain . When I turn on the water to the filters I let it run down the drain for 5 minutes and usually my TDS at this point is 5. The tds going to the DI isn't the issue it's the PH of the water. Aerating it brings it up to at least 8 then it gets pumped through the DI

Is there a difference in the Ph whether you aerate
Yep. The sediment, carbon and RO are plumbed into the supply water for my water heater. The RO outlet has a T'd line that runs to my barrel and to my water heater drain . When I turn on the water to the filters I let it run down the drain for 5 minutes and usually my TDS at this point is 5. The tds going to the DI isn't the issue it's the PH of the water. Aerating it brings it up to at least 8 then it gets pumped through the DI

Does it matter when you aerate the water, before or after the DI? Because I have a similar issue with Ph around 7.8.

Does the Ph of the water makes the resin deplete faster, or are you just doing that to raise the Ph in general?
 
Unfortunately, mine is in the 600 plus area. The highest reading was 729. My municipality gets their water from several different aquifers. A few years ago, I ran into the head of the Illinois EPA. I didn't say that I was a reefer, but told him where I live. He did make the comment to me that our tap water was about the equivalent of creek water and that they were considering shutting town the town's water. Since then my town has been working on tapping into a new aquifer, pumping station, and treatment facility updates. I sure hope there is a big improvement in water quality. I could make around 75 gallons of RODI before I had to change the resin. I finally said "forget it" and go to my LFS to buy RODI. I usually get around 60 gallons at a time in 5 gallon carboys.
 
I guess we're unlucky here in Mesa AZ, city water from SRP coming into the house is 800-900 TDS. It's though to get under 20 post RO, and DI goes fast at that number going in.
 
Started out 150-165, now runs around 220. 0 after RODI filters
 
I guess we're unlucky here in Mesa AZ, city water from SRP coming into the house is 800-900 TDS. It's though to get under 20 post RO, and DI goes fast at that number going in.

Holy SH!#... I'm thinking about what the sediment filter must look like.

Did you ever try running a 5 Micron sediment filter, then a 1 Micron sediment filter, then a 5 Micron carbon block to a 1 micron carbon block before it gets to the RO?

Like you said, it may not be worth it because you'd have to also replace the sediment filters constantly, but they're the cheapest part.

With TDS that high, you had to be running more than a normal 4-stage unit, right?
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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