What to do next

[Ryan Wright]

65 corner drilled with wet/dry, hydor wavemakers, sca 150 skimmer, phosban reactor. Tank was stocked decent, had kids, went through waves of minor neglect, was doing well then life got really chaotic for a few months (about 4 months). At this point slow loss in the following order Corals disappeared, anemone died, fish died slowly (dragonette, wrasse, fox face, potters angel, blue tang, now after a few weeks of "stability" maroon clown). Tried doing 20 gal water changes with each loss and any replacement died within a day or 2. Prior to clowns death i did a couple/few 10 gal/week changes. Life has slowed back down so I did a 35 gallon change (LFS Synthetic mix to squash potential issues with my RODI) with the clowns death. In the last couple of months I had some red slime and bubble algae, ran chemiclean and blackouts, then it went to just hair algae, which I was fighting with scrubbing and water changes. Few days prior to clowns death I nuked a few rocks (about 10-20% of my LR) that were worst with the GHA. This brings us to yesterday with clown being dead, did 35gal change (lots of nasty water coming out). Water has always tested fine (API), tank is down to hermits and valentini saddle puffer. Was wondering if I should check for anything in particular, if it may be a parasite of sorts, or something else I should check prior to trying to restock and when an apropriate restocking time would be?

I don't think I did anything "wrong" other than the neglect, tank ran for about 6 years decently. Hind sight says I should have thrown in the towel and hired a service for monthly or biweekly calls, which I tried calling different places for about a week 1 month into the chaos, then gave up due to no returned calls.

 

[Uncle99]

API tests are not accurate.
I’d upgrade those.
Maybe a parasite.
I’d let that tank go without any fish for 76 days. That would eliminate ick or velvet as contributors.
I’d get a ICP test to rule out some type of contamination.
After 76 days, I’d add one fish.

 

[Ryan Wright]

API tests are not accurate.
I’d upgrade those.
Maybe a parasite.
I’d let that tank go without any fish for 76 days. That would eliminate ick or velvet as contributors.
I’d get a ICP test to rule out some type of contamination.
After 76 days, I’d add one fish.

Thank you, even though API isnt accurate I would imagine it would be close enough to throw a red flag, not showing good and being way out of spec (in the market for a new kit, so recommendations are welcome, i just use API for convenience of purchasing). With a parasite I wouldnt rule it out, but the fish were in there with no issues for a bit and no real stress indicators. I haven't had any issues since the initial learning curve.

Since all i have left are hermits and puffer can I treat in the DT (no copper) and do the wait using that. (I dont have a QT and LFS I use has a 2 week QT prior to sale).

 

[SeaworthyAquatics]

Any pics of the fish before death? Were they acting strange? Hard to rule out parasites, but if coral also died then I'd guess something with the water chemistry. You may want to consider an ICP test to get a real read out of the parameters. Could be heavy metals or something of the sort.

 

[Ryan Wright]

Any pics of the fish before death? Were they acting strange? Hard to rule out parasites, but if coral also died then I'd guess something with the water chemistry. You may want to consider an ICP test to get a real read out of the parameters. Could be heavy metals or something of the sort.

Unfortunately, no pics prior. Life was chaotic to where I was gone for almost a month at the beginning of everything. Then it was helping out my family a lot and not being home much. My wife never noted anything odd other than the anemone closing up, then some tissue recession on corals that was a nice dent 1st day of notice and gone essentially 2nd day. It seems like the water changes using my RODI were not helpful to even crutch it for a few days. During the time I was helping family a bit, I did some water changes and a fish would essentially die overnight a week later. When I got some stability in my life last month the clown seemed fine (acting like the normal ****** he is without an anemone) and day before he was cruising the tank, ate fine, beat the crap out of my scraper while scraping the tank and chased the puffer a few times. I am putting the brakes on my RODI for about 2 weeks (they are doing a heavy chlorination on our lines) then swapping filters.

I am wondering if it is something with my water and a nutrient build-up. Water I pulled out with 35gal was really gross. I leaned pretty heavily on my RODI since I could start filling while taking care of other things and it was almost impossible to get to LFS. The replacement fish my wife would take the kids to pick out, while I was working on family stuff.

 

[SeaworthyAquatics]

Unfortunately, no pics prior. Life was chaotic to where I was gone for almost a month at the beginning of everything. Then it was helping out my family a lot and not being home much. My wife never noted anything odd other than the anemone closing up, then some tissue recession on corals that was a nice dent 1st day of notice and gone essentially 2nd day. It seems like the water changes using my RODI were not helpful to even crutch it for a few days. During the time I was helping family a bit, I did some water changes and a fish would essentially die overnight a week later. When I got some stability in my life last month the clown seemed fine (acting like the normal ****** he is without an anemone) and day before he was cruising the tank, ate fine, beat the crap out of my scraper while scraping the tank and chased the puffer a few times. I am putting the brakes on my RODI for about 2 weeks (they are doing a heavy chlorination on our lines) then swapping filters.

I am wondering if it is something with my water and a nutrient build-up. Water I pulled out with 35gal was really gross. I leaned pretty heavily on my RODI since I could start filling while taking care of other things and it was almost impossible to get to LFS. The replacement fish my wife would take the kids to pick out, while I was working on family stuff.

If the tank is rather dirty it could be bacteria related which can cause problems with a wide range of livestock. Quick deaths like that though it's hard to say. Do you have a deep sand bed? When disturbed they can release some nasty stuff into the water that can kill things quickly. Any old equipment that may be failing? Could be poisoning the tank or stray voltage killing stuff if you have something like a busted heater or powerhead, though shock seems unlikely. May want to check for rusty equipment and the like.

 

[Ryan Wright]

Ordered a 2 pack ICP test, going to do another big water change next week using LFS synthetic, which should be right before test kit comes in.

 

[Ryan Wright]

If the tank is rather dirty it could be bacteria related which can cause problems with a wide range of livestock. Quick deaths like that though it's hard to say. Do you have a deep sand bed? When disturbed they can release some nasty stuff into the water that can kill things quickly. Any old equipment that may be failing? Could be poisoning the tank or stray voltage killing stuff if you have something like a busted heater or powerhead, though shock seems unlikely. May want to check for rusty equipment and the like.

Equipment seems good, nothing visible or stray voltage, had pump for old skimmer go and cracked housing, but that was replaced a while ago. Sand bed is about 1-2", but I try to keep it agitated

 

[SeaworthyAquatics]

Ordered a 2 pack ICP test, going to do another big water change next week using LFS synthetic, which should be right before test kit comes in.

Hopefully it will reveal something that will send you in the right direction. I try to test my tanks a few times a year minimum, more on my sps tanks, and it has helped me out a lot and wish I had done it from the beginning.

Equipment seems good, nothing visible or stray voltage, had pump for old skimmer go and cracked housing, but that was replaced a while ago. Sand bed is about 1-2", but I try to keep it agitated

Sounds like no issues there at least but always worth a check.

 

[Ryan Wright]

I always just used API, would buy out of convenience. Equipment has always been something I stay on top of (i am an engineer, former mechanic). Life got chaotic to where I didn't test for about 3 months prior to last month. The mail-in ICP seems pretty reasonable though & i can pawn it off on my wife occasionally. She refuses to do anything like that outside of her work and with Covid demand burning her out will not even think of asking her to touch anything chemistry related at home. The 35 gal water change I agitated the sand bed as I normally do and my best bucket looked a hair cleaner than a mop bucket after scrubbing our floors (with 2 dogs and 2 kids).

Our LFS was shocked the clown died & puffer survived. Hopefully I just got lucky and it is nutrients and now I dont have to deal with our clown fish (it was a bitter, but loving relationship)

 

[Ryan Wright]

Did filters/carbon/gfo today, they were really nasty too. I think the sponge was out of sight out of mind. My pad was really nasty (blocking all flow) and I just cleaned that yesterday. My water is crystal clear though and I don't remember it ever being like this in recent months. I am anxious for the ICP test.

 

[Uncle99]

Thank you, even though API isnt accurate I would imagine it would be close enough to throw a red flag, not showing good and being way out of spec (in the market for a new kit, so recommendations are welcome, i just use API for convenience of purchasing). With a parasite I wouldnt rule it out, but the fish were in there with no issues for a bit and no real stress indicators. I haven't had any issues since the initial learning curve.

Since all i have left are hermits and puffer can I treat in the DT (no copper) and do the wait using that. (I dont have a QT and LFS I use has a 2 week QT prior to sale).

I would not treat the tank at all as you don’t know what your treating. That would only add additional stress and lower appetite.

If you decide that the death could be ick or velvet related, maintaining your tank without fish for 76 days results in a super high probability, you eradicate, either or both.

 

[Ryan Wright]

Still waiting on ICP kits, took water to LFS after 35 gal store bought pre-mix water change. Salinity was 1.032, some phosphate and nitrate, but said water change will eliminate, they were sold out of premix so got RO and a good ole fashion hydrometer. Checked refractometer and tank water was good (on low end i think 1.024), hydrometer showed high salinity 1.032. Checked RO and hydrometer was 1.001....guess you need to cal the refractometer a bit. My issue was way too high of salinity and bad cal on refractometer.

Mixed water light and did water change, everything is perfect again. Thanks for the help.