what to look for when purchasing used lights?

[shakacuz]

i attempted to look through threads and searching the forum on an answer to this.

i am close to purchasing some used lights to add to my 40B, but am unsure what to look for or HOW to look for things. i understand diodes/LEDS burn out, so how can i tell if they have burned lights? how can i tell if things are functioning well, as i also want to make sure my current lights do not burn out(just read that keeping UV @ 100 will burn the led.)

 

[MoreReef]

Woke up with lighting questions as well... lol hope ya find answers..

 

[dedragon]

You can ask the person when they bought the lights and a pic of the either sticker on the box or unit which show when it was produced or a pic of the receipt for purchase date proof if you really wanted. No reason as a buyer you shouldnt be able to ask for proof. If the seller doesnt provide it, move on to another.
Other than that it would be pretty hard to test

 

[shakacuz]

You can ask the person when they bought the lights and a pic of the either sticker on the box or unit which show when it was produced or a pic of the receipt for purchase date proof if you really wanted. No reason as a buyer you shouldnt be able to ask for proof. If the seller doesnt provide it, move on to another.
Other than that it would be pretty hard to test

i figured.. i am able to see the light in person so i will definitely look for a live demo. just wanted to make sure there was another way to test if any diodes/LEDs are burned or not working(other than not turning on, obviously).

 

[dedragon]

not really unless you want to bring a par meter or something over, maybe a wattage gauge to test how much power the unit is putting out but i think it is easier at that point to just ask for proof of purchase

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

Excessive salt creep and rust on fixtures is a hard no for me. Usually means that light has been in service for a bit.

 

[DivingTheWorld]

Agreed, salt or rust on the fixture would indicate it may have been mounted too close to the water or not regularly cleaned. That could be an indicator of a fixture who’s days are numbered.

I’d also look at the wiring to make sure nothing is damaged, burned, covered in salt, etc.

if it’s a newer fixture (or being sold that way), they should be able to provide original packaging with manufacture dates or recipes. If they don’t have those, it wouldn’t be a deal breaker for me, but it would need to be reflected in the price.

Of course as others have mentioned, you must be sure everything lights up and is functional.

 

[shakacuz]

Agreed, salt or rust on the fixture would indicate it may have been mounted too close to the water or not regularly cleaned. That could be an indicator of a fixture who’s days are numbered.

I’d also look at the wiring to make sure nothing is damaged, burned, covered in salt, etc.

if it’s a newer fixture (or being sold that way), they should be able to provide original packaging with manufacture dates or recipes. If they don’t have those, it wouldn’t be a deal breaker for me, but it would need to be reflected in the price.

Of course as others have mentioned, you must be sure everything lights up and is functional.

thank you!

 

[StewL6]

You should look for new lights

 

[shakacuz]

You should look for new lights

although i do agree with you, i cannot justify buying another hydra 32hd at retail. times like this i am leaning towards buying 2 black boxes from amazon/aliexpress and selling my current lights.. BUT my hydra32hd has worked very well.

 

[dedragon]

Man even smatfarms led is going up in price every day, smatfarms led now cost $150 used to be just $100. I would look at orphek or3 bars as you can add more on later (or reefbrite) or even these from 21led https://21ledusa.com/collections/reefbar-pro

 

[oreo54]

although i do agree with you, i cannot justify buying another hydra 32hd at retail. times like this i am leaning towards buying 2 black boxes from amazon/aliexpress and selling my current lights.. BUT my hydra32hd has worked very well.

Look for browning on the lens over the high energy colors like uv/violet/rb. Matter of fact I'd check your current light as well.
Not a deal breaker because most of time the diode itself still functions.
If just the secondary lens it "may" be an easy replacement from AI.

Except for the power supply in some cases most of the electronics are pretty stable.
As mentioned above corrosion and specifically corrosion/salt on the circuit boards is bad.

Ask seller if they were running it mostly full or not.
It's history and age is helpful.
Check how clean the fan is. Seller may have cleaned it so it is questionable still.
Most people won't want to take the light apart though.
Soo based on history see if it is too clean..

Intangibles like how honest do you feel the seller is?
Emotionally it helps if the unit does crash and burn on you.

Buying used is always a gamble, no getting around that really.
but don't buy on desperation there usually always is another one.

I like to start at 1/2 retail and go from there. At about quarter and if it matches what you have I might buy it for parts but not just let it sit there.
Only time I consider it at a premium price is if new in box type stuff.
Then again I'd "prefer" new in box at 1/4 retail..or less.

A successful transaction in Capitalism is when both the buyer and seller are happy.
Pre-owned on flea bay runs $200-$300 used. Accessories matter.
Use advanced search and sold check box as an "appraisal" service.

New $400-ish (light only)
Worth the risk if it functions fine no matter $100 especially if it matches your current model.
Between that, let the games begin.

YMMV

As to the black boxes 2 is not too far south of a new AI....
On a personal note solely based on HARDWARE think I'd favor the used ai over 2bb's
I like control..

Make no mistake it's a tough call.