What would you do differently?

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I scraped coraline from an encrusted rock and crushed it up real fine in water and poured it in the tank. It is now growing everywhere. Also I had that same stringy looking algae that would come back within an hour after wiping the glass. I cleaned everything, did water change, added a poly-filter, new gfo and new carbon and wiped tank glass many times over a few days. It has not come back for a few weeks now. Also I dipped all frags with 5 to 1 tank water to peroxide dip and scrubbed plugs very well.

All means to the same end.
Different method.

Yea you have to get tough on the algae. I like the peroxide too. I dip when I get new corals
Algae Bellongs in the fuge.

My bottle of GFO is four years old. I found it again a few days ago. :rolleyes:
 
I do have that light btw and I dont have cyano.
As an experiment I took off the skimmer and and hob refugium. its sumpless. I do have a high coral bio load.

It's not just because of all the aggravation of getting the cyano and algae under control, which it's all under control now. It was also trying to get all the corals dialed in, lost some, moved my clams back to a t5/halide tank. Initial response is "wow" everything looks great, but somehow after a year or so you find some corals start to decline, my plates for instance. Even the lfs' are going back to t5s and halides, at least on their sps tanks. You won't find the honesty in the led junkies online, after investing $1000s they will kill everything in their tank before they admit there's something wrong.
 
It's not just because of all the aggravation of getting the cyano and algae under control, which it's all under control now. It was also trying to get all the corals dialed in, lost some, moved my clams back to a t5/halide tank. Initial response is "wow" everything looks great, but somehow after a year or so you find some corals start to decline, my plates for instance. Even the lfs' are going back to t5s and halides, at least on their sps tanks. You won't find the honesty in the led junkies online, after investing $1000s they will kill everything in their tank before they admit there's something wrong.

I'm sure there are some corals that don't like the led. I have a couple Frieda who totally agree. I have a few myself I wonder about.

The op. His are just too bright. In my therms. That led there would be pretty close in intensity to a 400w mh. With the lenses and at 9 in I think I could get ummmmm
1000 par? At the top of the tank. That's prob like 300 on the bottom. Maybe less.
So he could almost grow acro on the bottom of that tank.
 
So he could almost grow acro on the bottom of that tank.
If only I could keep it alive :rolleyes: haha

So how much lux should I get on the surface of the water in the morning, afternoon, and evening so I can adjust my lights accordingly? Or does that not apply too well in this situation?
 
How Dee is the tank? My guess for low light tank would be 20,000 lux.peak
Maybe 25000. Look for browning and the Zoas shrinking. Or not opening.
Again that's my guess.
The pia is. It's really hard to know what likes what.
So reduce the light slowly 2500 lux a week maybe. A lot of corals will adapt. Zoas are usually one of them. But I'm no ZOA God.
I do have some paly that def like high light.

One thing I did to learn animals and light is to look at google image searches for par carts. Or par tests etc. you'll see quite a few and the tank they are in and the animals they keep.

My peak is eight hours. My light ramps.
Don't freak out but my light comes on at 6 am and ends at 930. The first two and last two hours are are very little light at all. Half or a lot less. I kinda forget. :oops:
Is royal blue and pretty though!:)
 
How Dee is the tank? My guess for low light tank would be 20,000 lux.peak
Maybe 25000. Look for browning and the Zoas shrinking. Or not opening.
Again that's my guess.
The pia is. It's really hard to know what likes what.
So reduce the light slowly 2500 lux a week maybe. A lot of corals will adapt. Zoas are usually one of them. But I'm no ZOA God.
I do have some paly that def like high light.

One thing I did to learn animals and light is to look at google image searches for par carts. Or par tests etc. you'll see quite a few and the tank they are in and the animals they keep.

My peak is eight hours. My light ramps.
Don't freak out but my light comes on at 6 am and ends at 930. The first two and last two hours are are very little light at all. Half or a lot less. I kinda forget. :oops:
Is royal blue and pretty though!:)
It says it's 18.8 inches to the bottom. So the browning would indicate not enough light or too little?

If you don't mind and have a chance do you care to put up your schedule so I can see it? I never know what a good schedule would look like. I kind of just wing it ya know.
 
It says it's 18.8 inches to the bottom. So the browning would indicate not enough light or too little?

If you don't mind and have a chance do you care to put up your schedule so I can see it? I never know what a good schedule would look like. I kind of just wing it ya know.
I would put up a schedule but I wing it. Lol

Pretty much like I said though.

Browning is one response to too little light. Or polyps not opening.



Is it the SB ramping model? Mine is not wifi.
 
I would put up a schedule but I wing it. Lol

Pretty much like I said though.

Browning is one response to too little light. Or polyps not opening.



Is it the SB ramping model? Mine is not wifi.
Mine is the elite wifi model. I think it's 16 in? I can set up to 10 set points if I'm using the android app or I think it's like 40 or something ridiculous like that if I'm using the iOS app. The iOS app would give me the ability for a smoother ramp.

I usually use 10 set points. I usually do blue lights for the first hour then the whites slowly come on. By 11 or 12 the lights are at there peak till about 4 or 5 I think. Then they ramp down until there is one hour of just blue then an hour of just moon lights.
 
Mine is the elite wifi model. I think it's 16 in? I can set up to 10 set points if I'm using the android app or I think it's like 40 or something ridiculous like that if I'm using the iOS app. The iOS app would give me the ability for a smoother ramp.

I usually use 10 set points. I usually do blue lights for the first hour then the whites slowly come on. By 11 or 12 the lights are at there peak till about 4 or 5 I think. Then they ramp down until there is one hour of just blue then an hour of just moon lights.
yea sounds right. id just check the peak and adjust for the depth and live stock.


Note the par and species
https://www.google.com/search?tbm=i...0ahUKEwjn6_Kalp3PAhUT0IMKHeUiBcgQ9C8ICQ&dpr=1


https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e355/kangym/FTS5-13-09002-1-1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.ciklidi.org/forum/index.php?topic=12243.0&docid=mw_laRZU04i6uM&tbnid=6Jq-SbVWPzPdtM:&w=800&h=533&bih=911&biw=1920&ved=0ahUKEwjIzYTnlZ3PAhVI6IMKHVZ2C8cQxiAIAygB&iact=c&ictx=1#h=533&w=800
http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f6/rustl3rs-55g-reef-163508-72.html
 
How far off the water surface are your lights? Mine are probably about a foot to a foot and a half. Think they are too high?
if you have good coverage and it looks good and you get the intensity you want. its fine
 
Okay so just so I completely understand what I should do, I need to lower my light intensity, feed corals more to provide more No, wet skim for better nutrient export, anything else I'm missing or getting wrong?
 
That's pretty close. Make a calculated estimate for light depending on their needs. Keep an eye on the corals and make small adjustments.
 
That's pretty close. Make a calculated estimate for light depending on their needs. Keep an eye on the corals and make small adjustments.
Okay so I just wanted to make sure, typically it goes if your zoas are reaching for the heavens then they need more light correct? But is it possible they can do this from too much light also?

IMG_5466.JPG
 
Okay so I just wanted to make sure, typically it goes if your zoas are reaching for the heavens then they need more light correct? But is it possible they can do this from too much light also?

IMG_5466.JPG
in my opinion no. reaching may not be light. some palys grow like that in colonies. Ive gotten several small colonies and grown a few and thats what they look like.
IMO for less light they tend to just close up. but to be honest I am not a zoa pro.

you can double check your flow, or check the nutrients, or even bump lit intensity. but I generally do one at a time.
 
I've been wet skimming, reduced light intensity, and have spot fed my corals more often and it seems like things are getting worse or not improving. I'm not really sure what to do at this point now.

IMG_5486.JPG


IMG_5485.JPG


IMG_5487.JPG
 
hmmm, you've checked your waster tds? Flow light? done water changes?

am i only seeing one powerhead?
 
hmmm, you've checked your waster tds? Flow light? done water changes?

am i only seeing one powerhead?
Well I haven't done a water change in a little over a week. I don't have anything to check water tds with. Flow hasn't changed. I did dial it back though shortly ago to see what would happen. Light I had it reduced in intensity but I also turned it up shortly ago to see what would happen and surely enough it looks like the zoas are opening. I don't know if it's the fact that the light is too high off the water and it's affecting the intensity of the light that far under water or what. But the light does seem to affect the zoas for sure. But I have the light pretty high up there in intensity which leads me to believe something isn't right.
 
interesting..... Just the one powerhead?
Oh yes. Sorry forgot to answer that. I have it positioned on the back wall hitting the front glass that way the water is more random in direction rather than having it on the side glass and having the same circular motion of flow.
 

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