Whats so good about Apex controllers?

[shoelaceike]

The outlets can be set as On or OFF (individually) if the controller brain stop working.

But your just assuming the Apex is more reliable then the device its controlling.....so if the apex thinks the heater is malfunctioning, and its not, won't the tank freeze?

 

[shoelaceike]

Some of the things I control with my Apex:
3 completely separated reef systems
1. Lights
a. On/Off for T5
b. Spectrum/ intensity/ time for LEDs
2. Temperature
a. On/Off heaters
b. One of three 800W heaters (system in garage) only come up if the other two cannot handle the temperature
c. Turn On/Off fan on sump
3. pH
a. Monitor pH in each system
b. Control CO2 in calcium reactor
4. ATO for all 3 systems
a. One pump 3 solenoid valves
b. Monitor low/high levels in each sump (float switches)
c. Set up a different maximum On time for each system
d. Only turn On after 2 minutes the float switch is On
5. Feeding mode
a. Turn off skimmer
b. Turn off wave maker
c. Turn off return pump (only in one system where fishes are slow eaters)
d. After a while turn On wave makers, two minutes later turn On return pump, and two minutes later turn On skimmer (once water level is stabilized
6. Wavemakers
a. Turn On/Off
b. Complete control of patterns for ecotech ones
7. Water changes
a. Control automatic water changes volume and speed
8. Chiller
a. Control On/Of
b. Turn off lights if On
9. Text messages me if (in any system):
a. Temperature: too high/low
b. pH: too high/low
c. ORP: too high/low
d. ATO: if in two cycles of solenoid On the float switch (for low volume) is still On; or anytime float switch (for high volume) is On
e. Power outages / breaker trips
f. Water leakage around tanks and sumps (also turn off return pumps)
10. Keep logs and curves or Notes
a. Tests: Alk, Ca, NO3, PO4, Mg, etc... (manually entered for each system)
b. Changes on Alk and Ca dosing
b. Power consumption
c. pH, Temp, ORP, Salinity

There might be more that I cannot remember now...

Wow.....That's pretty amazing...but my setup is quite a bit more simple.......about 95% of that wouldn't apply to my system.....seems really awesome for the right system though..... Didn't know it could do so much

 

[Fin]

You can add the ALD Module (Auto Leak Detector) and use sensors wherever you want (up to 4 sensors). Under the tank, around your sump, around your external skimmer, floor, etc. Costs extra to add the module and sensors, but it is a capability that is available. That alone could save you thousands of dollars on home repair. Let's face it - reef tanks can and do leak at times, whether from a failed seam or a malfunctioning piece of equipment or plumbing.

 

[shoelaceike]

Some of the things I control with my Apex:
3 completely separated reef systems
1. Lights - ECOTECH REEFLINK
a. On/Off for T5
b. Spectrum/ intensity/ time for LEDs
2. Temperature - 2 300 WATT, ONE LOWER AS BACKUP..... WARM IN HOUSE SO DON'T NEED MORE THAN ONE.
a. On/Off heaters
b. One of three 800W heaters (system in garage) only come up if the other two cannot handle the temperature
c. Turn On/Off fan on sump
3. pH - DIGITAL PROBE. CHECK ONCE IN A WHILE.....DON'T SEE WHY IT SHOULD CHANGE MUCH
a. Monitor pH in each system
b. Control CO2 in calcium reactor
4. ATO for all 3 systems - TUNZE
a. One pump 3 solenoid valves
b. Monitor low/high levels in each sump (float switches)
c. Set up a different maximum On time for each system
d. Only turn On after 2 minutes the float switch is On
5. Feeding mode GYRE. BUTTON FOR 10 MINUTE FEEDING
a. Turn off skimmer
b. Turn off wave maker
c. Turn off return pump (only in one system where fishes are slow eaters)
d. After a while turn On wave makers, two minutes later turn On return pump, and two minutes later turn On skimmer (once water level is stabilized
6. Wavemakers - GYRE DONT WANT TO MESS WITH PATTERNS
a. Turn On/Off
b. Complete control of patterns for ecotech ones
7. Water changes MANUALLY DONE. NOT SET UP FOR AUTO
a. Control automatic water changes volume and speed
8. Chiller - DONT HAVE/NEED LED
a. Control On/Of
b. Turn off lights if On
9. Text messages me if (in any system): - WOULD BE NICE BUT UNLIKELY TO CHANGE SIGNIFICANTLY
a. Temperature: too high/low
b. pH: too high/low
c. ORP: too high/low
d. ATO: if in two cycles of solenoid On the float switch (for low volume) is still On; or anytime float switch (for high volume) is On
e. Power outages / breaker trips - I CAN SEE IF THIS HAPPENS IM HOME ALOT
f. Water leakage around tanks and sumps (also turn off return pumps) WOULD BE NICE BUT ONLY WAY THIS HELPS IS IF THE LEAK IS COMING FROM BLOCKED OVER FLOW
10. Keep logs and curves or Notes
a. Tests: Alk, Ca, NO3, PO4, Mg, etc... (manually entered for each system) - WRITE NOTES AND DOSE MANUALLY
b. Changes on Alk and Ca dosing
b. Power consumption - DOESN'T MATTER
c. pH, Temp, ORP, Salinity

There might be more that I cannot remember now...

You took so much time writing this I will explain what applies and what doesn't. Let me know if you think it's still a worthwhile investment. Btw, I have a 180 mixed reef with thousands in corals....

 

[cb684]

But your just assuming the Apex is more reliable then the device its controlling.....so if the apex thinks the heater is malfunctioning, and its not, won't the tank freeze?

The answer is redundancy... First you should have several heaters, so one cannot cook your tank if get stuck on and also the system does not rely only on it to keep the temperature. I tend to rely more on the Apex than in the heater thermostat (if the heater has one), then I set the heater thermostat to keep the temperature at 79F and the apex to keep it between 77.5 and 78.0. So, lets say my apex thermometer is out of the water, the outlet will be on, but the heater thermostat will turn it of when the temperature is more than 79.
You could also setup so your heater won't be On for more than, lets say 15 minutes, and if it does to receive a TXT message...

 

[shoelaceike]

You can add the ALD Module (Auto Leak Detector) and use sensors wherever you want (up to 4 sensors). Under the tank, around your sump, around your external skimmer, floor, etc. Costs extra to add the module and sensors, but it is a capability that is available. That alone could save you thousands of dollars on home repair. Let's face it - reef tanks can and do leak at times, whether from a failed seam or a malfunctioning piece of equipment or plumbing.

Pretty cool.....but if this is themain reason for the apex (for me) I would probably be better off getting something cheap to do this

 

[shoelaceike]

The answer is redundancy... First you should have several heaters, so one cannot cook your tank if get stuck on and also the system does not rely only on it to keep the temperature. I tend to rely more on the Apex than in the heater thermostat (if the heater has one), then I set the heater thermostat to keep the temperature at 79F and the apex to keep it between 77.5 and 78.0. So, lets say my apex thermometer is out of the water, the outlet will be on, but the heater thermostat will turn it of when the temperature is more than 79.
You could also setup so your heater won't be On for more than, lets say 15 minutes, and if it does to receive a TXT message...

That last part is cool....definitely something to think about but a lot of money for something that I'm barely using.....

 

[cb684]

Just remember one more use.... It wakes up my daughter (turns lights on her bedroom) at 6:30am on weekdays. ;-)

 

[Damon]

I'm trying to figure out why hobbyist are crazy over them and why they cost so much?

As far as I can tell they read the PH, salinity and temp....these items on their own are not very difficult to test for and each one has a good quality digital tester for a fair price.....

Also, these are constants that really shouldn't change much unless something goes wrong.....unless you on vacation, you shouldn't need this..... I would find something that tested for Calcium, alkalinity, nitrate, ammonia, mag......these are things we generally like to keep an eye on as they are more likely to fluctuate.

My other question is why is it so expensive? $800 is a lot of money from what I think your getting.....unless I don't fully realize the capabilities of it...on that case, enlighten me!

So basically, you don't want an apex. To pretty much sum it up. To each their own, and it's fine. But for every reason given, you have found an alternative not to. Which, to each their own once again, but why even ask? Why quote the most expensive version? Besides a bit of bait?

Just asking, because you don't seem in the slightest bit interested in what it potentially can do and help with..

 

[shoelaceike]

So basically, you don't want an apex. To pretty much sum it up. To each their own, and it's fine. But for every reason given, you have found an alternative not to. Which, to each their own once again, but why even ask? Why quote the most expensive version? Besides a bit of bait?

Just asking, because you don't seem in the slightest bit interested in what it potentially can do and help with..

My question was and was pretty clear, can this thing do more then I think it can? Based on the hype I would assume so.....the answers were very good and pretty much explained that there are some things it can do that I didn't know and the controller is much more geared for people with elaborate/self controlled setups as opposed to a tank like mine.

 

[shoelaceike]

I now am actually consdering getting one based on the info provided.....I'm hesitant only as I will not be close to using it to its potential

 

[shoelaceike]

I don not have the Apex but do have a controller. It is setup to email me if anything goes wrong with the things being monitored. I also use it for auto top off and auto water change. It monitors the levels in the storage tanks along with the level in the sump. If the storage tanks go empty it will shut down which ever system is supplied by that tank and sends an email. If the level in the sump is overfull it shuts down the skimmer, ATO and water change systems. If the sump level is low it shuts off the ATO, water change system and return pump and heaters. If a leak is detected in the stand everything shuts down except the MP10's in the tank. It also control the heating and cooling for the tank. I guess you can do most of the things without a comtroller but being able to check things while you not there is worth the cost to me.

Which controller is this?

 

[n2585722]

Which controller is this? And will it alert you if an overflow gets blocked?

It is an Archon. In my system I will get a low sump level if the overflow gets blocked. There is not enough water level in the sump to overfill the tank. It will alert for the low sump level. I guess you could add a float switch to the tank to alert if the level is to high in the tank.

 

[shoelaceike]

It is an Archon. In my system I will get a low sump level if the overflow gets blocked. There is not enough water level in the sump to overfill the tank. It will alert for the low sump level. I guess you could add a float switch to the tank to alert if the level is to high in the tank.

Thanks..... These controllers do way more then I thought......if only I had the right setup to utilise them on....

 

[shoelaceike]

Its a shame I'm only learning about this now as if I would learned about it before I got my ATO, probes etc.....it definitely would have been worth it.....my ATO was $200 on its own!

 

[n2585722]

If you do get a controller you can have it only control the things you want. You can slowly add things for thr controller to control at your leasure. There is a learning curve on all controllers.

As stated the power bar outputs have a default setting of either on or off if the power bar looses comtact with the head unit. In fact I set my spare power bar to all on defaults and used it as a power strip temporarily until I could get another power strip. It worked in this state for several days without issue.

 

[gcrawford]

Of the many things I really like and rely upon with my apex, the few that stand out are: Co2 solenoid control which keeps the ph perfect in my calcium reactor (I don't dose either or need to), control of my wave pumps (the programming choices are endless) and being able to get to work and take a quick look at parameters over the past day, week and current parameters.
Also, I've bought all my apex units used over the years at usually a full system price of $325 - $400. What prompted me way back when I was not sold on controllers was a failed heater tstat that would have crashed the tank if I hadn't noticed. My apex systems will email me if anything goes wrong.

Best of luck!

 

[Fin]

Very, very few people (if any) use the Apex to its full potential. It's like having a computer. How many people use computers to their full potential? Almost no one. It is a tool that you can mold to your system, over time. You can also sell your other components and incorporate everything to the Apex. Browse the Neptune forum and you can see that there are plenty of creative uses for these devices. http://forum.neptunesystems.com/forum.php

 

[shoelaceike]

Thanks everyone for the help.....question - If I purchased the Apex Jr will I be able to do the following?

Turn off return pumps remotely

Get notification if temp is out of desired range and turn off heater remotely

Get notifiction if water level in sump is too high or low

Auto feed with Gyre automtically turning off for a few mins

Check PH and temp?

And will I need to buy anything additional to do the above?

 

[shoelaceike]

Also use as ATO