What's the coolest thing you do with your controller?
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Wy8tt_Earp
Active Member
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- Floral City, FL
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- Florida
I couldn't find a timer laying around the house, so I hooked the X-Mas tree up to my apex. Just for giggles I have the lights turn off based on the ph dropping at night and turn on as the ph rises during the day.
cadmanof50s
New Member
I've had my APEX controller for several years, now. It does just about everything...despite all this, I still spend several hours a week doing maintenance...!!
Besides the standard temperature, skimmer and return pump controller, my APEX does:
1. pH monitor and control
-Day/Night pH control
2. Salinity monitor and control
3. On-demand auto water changes
4. Dosing of Kalk, Alkalinity, Calcium, Magnesium, Carbon, KN03
5. Monitors fluid reservoirs for Fresh water, Salt water, Kalk, Alkalinity, Mahnesium, and Calcium
6. Has a Maintenance Mode for cleaning, pumps. skimmer, float switches, etc.
7. Has a Service mode for service in the tank itself
8. Monitors houshold AC and Has an Emergency mode to run only essentials during power failures
9. Controls all my LED lighting including tank, sump and algae scrubber
10. Monitors return pumps for pressure loss
11. Runs in Limited Circulation mode if a pump fails
12. Monitors Sump high and low levels
13. Add water via ATO's
14. Drains waiter if sump level is too high
15. Runs on DC battery back up
16. Alarms when any of the above systems fails
I use Fussion as well. You can see my tank APEX370g set up at the link below. Feel free to look at any of the Outlet programming:
User is: visitor
Password: reeftank
https://t.apexfusion.com/login
Vic B.
Besides the standard temperature, skimmer and return pump controller, my APEX does:
1. pH monitor and control
-Day/Night pH control
2. Salinity monitor and control
3. On-demand auto water changes
4. Dosing of Kalk, Alkalinity, Calcium, Magnesium, Carbon, KN03
5. Monitors fluid reservoirs for Fresh water, Salt water, Kalk, Alkalinity, Mahnesium, and Calcium
6. Has a Maintenance Mode for cleaning, pumps. skimmer, float switches, etc.
7. Has a Service mode for service in the tank itself
8. Monitors houshold AC and Has an Emergency mode to run only essentials during power failures
9. Controls all my LED lighting including tank, sump and algae scrubber
10. Monitors return pumps for pressure loss
11. Runs in Limited Circulation mode if a pump fails
12. Monitors Sump high and low levels
13. Add water via ATO's
14. Drains waiter if sump level is too high
15. Runs on DC battery back up
16. Alarms when any of the above systems fails
I use Fussion as well. You can see my tank APEX370g set up at the link below. Feel free to look at any of the Outlet programming:
User is: visitor
Password: reeftank
https://t.apexfusion.com/login
Vic B.
cadmanof50s
New Member
Hey Dr. Salmon,
I use a small water pressure sensor that will trip if the water pressure drops below 6 psi. I use one on each of the return pumps lines going back to the tank.
I use 1" PVC return lines and I just drilled an threaded a hole for the pressure sensor. These switches are designed for hot-tub systems. I got them from the guy that services our pool pump.
They work great. I'll try to post a picture of them later.
Vic B.
I use a small water pressure sensor that will trip if the water pressure drops below 6 psi. I use one on each of the return pumps lines going back to the tank.
I use 1" PVC return lines and I just drilled an threaded a hole for the pressure sensor. These switches are designed for hot-tub systems. I got them from the guy that services our pool pump.
They work great. I'll try to post a picture of them later.
Vic B.
drsalomon
Community Member
Super cool. Great idea. If you could provide part number, that would be great. One concern is salt water compatibility. Apex has a module coming to do this in yhe future which will likely be overpriced.
BoB stuff..
A switch turns off the white lights to show the display off for guests.
A switch turns off the display pumps for mounting corals or photo shoots.
A float switch in the skimmer cup turns it off and sends an email if it goes crazy and overflows.
A double float switch ATO.
A double float switch tells me when my RO Bin is empty or full. Too lazy to buy a seleniod to automate it.
A float switch in my make up water turns on the heater and pumps when its full and shuts them off when I start a water change.
A switch turns off the heaters, skimmer, ozone and return pump so I can do a WC.
Another switch turns On my frag tank lights (which are on a reverse light cycle from the display) so I can work on them or show off corals.
A switch turns off the white lights to show the display off for guests.
A switch turns off the display pumps for mounting corals or photo shoots.
A float switch in the skimmer cup turns it off and sends an email if it goes crazy and overflows.
A double float switch ATO.
A double float switch tells me when my RO Bin is empty or full. Too lazy to buy a seleniod to automate it.
A float switch in my make up water turns on the heater and pumps when its full and shuts them off when I start a water change.
A switch turns off the heaters, skimmer, ozone and return pump so I can do a WC.
Another switch turns On my frag tank lights (which are on a reverse light cycle from the display) so I can work on them or show off corals.
BoB stuff..
A switch turns off the white lights to show the display off for guests.
A switch turns off the display pumps for mounting corals or photo shoots.
A float switch in the skimmer cup turns it off and sends an email if it goes crazy and overflows.
A double float switch ATO.
A double float switch tells me when my RO Bin is empty or full. Too lazy to buy a seleniod to automate it.
A float switch in my make up water turns on the heater and pumps when its full and shuts them off when I start a water change.
A switch turns off the heaters, skimmer, ozone and return pump so I can do a WC.
Another switch turns On my frag tank lights (which are on a reverse light cycle from the display) so I can work on them or show off corals.
A switch turns off the white lights to show the display off for guests.
A switch turns off the display pumps for mounting corals or photo shoots.
A float switch in the skimmer cup turns it off and sends an email if it goes crazy and overflows.
A double float switch ATO.
A double float switch tells me when my RO Bin is empty or full. Too lazy to buy a seleniod to automate it.
A float switch in my make up water turns on the heater and pumps when its full and shuts them off when I start a water change.
A switch turns off the heaters, skimmer, ozone and return pump so I can do a WC.
Another switch turns On my frag tank lights (which are on a reverse light cycle from the display) so I can work on them or show off corals.
cadmanof50s
New Member
Sorry for the poor quality pics. The writing on the switch is super-small and its in an awkward spot to get a clearer picture. I hope this is good enough for you to see....
Regarding salt compatibility..I've been using these switches for more than a year..no issues. I have had them out for cleaning...they show no sign of corrosion..I even soaked them in vinegar to clean off the calcium deposits. Secondly many hot-tub systems now use salt water..of course its not quite the same salt we use in our marine tanks...but it is salt...(!). Hope these pics help.
drsalomon
Community Member
Here is how I do the automated PE mysis feeder:
I run a split off of my tank return line that literally passes through the side of a dorm peltier style refrigerator. Within the fridge the flow is passed through a venturi split that pulls a slight vacuum from a tee conector fed by BRS 1.1 ml/min dosing pumps. I have 2 food reservoirs; 1 is oyster feast, the other is similar to mysis feast but is home made with pe mysis, propylene glycol alginate (5g/500ml) which allows the mysis to stay in a homogenous emulsion within the food container and not settle to the bottom. You want the propylene glycol version of the alginate because the non-dervitized variety that costs less is only useful for making gelatinous overpriced deserts in a fancy restaurant but not for making an emulsion of PE mysis. There are also a large variety of preservatives that I add which are Magnesium citrate, calcium ascorbate, potassium sorbate, calcium propionate (each individually added at 1g/500 ml). I also add 2ml/500 ml food of cotton candy flavor to make it smell good to the fish. All of the ingredients can be purchased through amazon. This preparation typically can last for over a month at 4C without turning bad. I also have a salt water compatible solenoid valve that only passes the tank water through the fridge for about 20 minutes per day when the BRS pumps are pumping food into the venturi inlet. Apex controls the solenoid and the BRS peristaltic pumps as well as a vortech MP10 which is strategically placed where the food comes into the tank to disperse the food around so that all the creatures can catch it. The fish become trained to hover near the vortech at feeding time and will start jockeying for pole position about 10 minutes before the dinner bell. Many of the ideas for this come from an online forum post. The advantage of my configuration is that it is highly energy efficient, the dorm fridge has no compresser yet is able to stably maintain 4C temperature. I do supplement cooling with a temperature controlled fan that collects air from a window fan and blows it on the back of the fridge. The temperature probe for this fan is placed in the fridge to ensure 4C temperature. The mysis seem to make it through the dosing pump relatively intact. The venturi pulls a slight vacuum to ensure that the tank water does not go into the fridge but instead sucks in the effluent from the dosing pumps.
I run a split off of my tank return line that literally passes through the side of a dorm peltier style refrigerator. Within the fridge the flow is passed through a venturi split that pulls a slight vacuum from a tee conector fed by BRS 1.1 ml/min dosing pumps. I have 2 food reservoirs; 1 is oyster feast, the other is similar to mysis feast but is home made with pe mysis, propylene glycol alginate (5g/500ml) which allows the mysis to stay in a homogenous emulsion within the food container and not settle to the bottom. You want the propylene glycol version of the alginate because the non-dervitized variety that costs less is only useful for making gelatinous overpriced deserts in a fancy restaurant but not for making an emulsion of PE mysis. There are also a large variety of preservatives that I add which are Magnesium citrate, calcium ascorbate, potassium sorbate, calcium propionate (each individually added at 1g/500 ml). I also add 2ml/500 ml food of cotton candy flavor to make it smell good to the fish. All of the ingredients can be purchased through amazon. This preparation typically can last for over a month at 4C without turning bad. I also have a salt water compatible solenoid valve that only passes the tank water through the fridge for about 20 minutes per day when the BRS pumps are pumping food into the venturi inlet. Apex controls the solenoid and the BRS peristaltic pumps as well as a vortech MP10 which is strategically placed where the food comes into the tank to disperse the food around so that all the creatures can catch it. The fish become trained to hover near the vortech at feeding time and will start jockeying for pole position about 10 minutes before the dinner bell. Many of the ideas for this come from an online forum post. The advantage of my configuration is that it is highly energy efficient, the dorm fridge has no compresser yet is able to stably maintain 4C temperature. I do supplement cooling with a temperature controlled fan that collects air from a window fan and blows it on the back of the fridge. The temperature probe for this fan is placed in the fridge to ensure 4C temperature. The mysis seem to make it through the dosing pump relatively intact. The venturi pulls a slight vacuum to ensure that the tank water does not go into the fridge but instead sucks in the effluent from the dosing pumps.
drsalomon
Community Member
Here is where to get some of the stuff:
venturi T connector:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TSABP8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
salt water resistant solenoid valve:
1 | 2PCZ-1/2-D | 1/2" Anti Corrosion Acid Resistant Salt | $89.78 | $89.78
(looks like this one might not be available still from wicvalve.com.
venturi T connector:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TSABP8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
salt water resistant solenoid valve:
1 | 2PCZ-1/2-D | 1/2" Anti Corrosion Acid Resistant Salt | $89.78 | $89.78
(looks like this one might not be available still from wicvalve.com.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
drsalomon
Community Member
And the temperature controller on the fridge fan:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KVCPH2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
project box for the controller:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BENMI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
4" duct fan:
http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-DF...F8&qid=1450121552&sr=1-1&keywords=4"+duct+fan
propylene glycol alginate ( I know it sounds like antifreeze but it is actually used in gourmet cooking and is safe for consumption)
http://www.modernistpantry.com/propylene-glycol-alginate.html
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KVCPH2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
project box for the controller:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BENMI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
4" duct fan:
http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-DF...F8&qid=1450121552&sr=1-1&keywords=4"+duct+fan
propylene glycol alginate ( I know it sounds like antifreeze but it is actually used in gourmet cooking and is safe for consumption)
http://www.modernistpantry.com/propylene-glycol-alginate.html
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
drsalomon
Community Member
Here is my inspiration form the system:
Similar systems:
http://www.reefaddicts.com/content.php/249-refrigerated-automated-feeding-system
http://www.tcmas.org/v4/forums/showthread.php?49623-Automatic-Frozen-Food-Feeder
And the ultimate system that requires a full size fridge with freezer and includes a freezer mounted hair dryer for melting frozen cubes and an in-fridge sump. Absolutely cool but my wife would kill me if I took up a whole full size fridge for the fish.
http://reefbuilders.com/2013/11/25/automatic-frozen-fish-food-feeder-running-diy-project/
Similar systems:
http://www.reefaddicts.com/content.php/249-refrigerated-automated-feeding-system
http://www.tcmas.org/v4/forums/showthread.php?49623-Automatic-Frozen-Food-Feeder
And the ultimate system that requires a full size fridge with freezer and includes a freezer mounted hair dryer for melting frozen cubes and an in-fridge sump. Absolutely cool but my wife would kill me if I took up a whole full size fridge for the fish.
http://reefbuilders.com/2013/11/25/automatic-frozen-fish-food-feeder-running-diy-project/
bsstover
Acroholic
I use mine to stir foods and additives that need to be shaken or stirred prior to dosing. After apex turns the stirrer on for 10 mins then it turns the doser on. I have a thread showing this setup.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dosing-kz-products.218516/
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dosing-kz-products.218516/
I have one that adds the saltwater for the saily water change The second tub adds kalk water for make top off There is a heater in the salt bin that temps the water And a stiring pump in the kalk tub The blue tub has ro water for storage Ill post a picture of the set up
skydancer
Community Member
Among a ton of other things, I use the Apex to rinse my skimmer collection cup straight to the drain every 4 hours.
A 1/4 line connected to a normally closed solenoid supplies the water to the sprinklers.
Click on the image to view the video.
A 1/4 line connected to a normally closed solenoid supplies the water to the sprinklers.
Click on the image to view the video.
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