What's this!!!

[Diazreeflife]

Got a couple white spots on my blue throat trigger he is eating fine and active. I just put him in my tank Monday after I quarantined him.

Also my lyretail anthia has a some white on her fin. All the other tank mates look amazing.

Please help!?

 

[Mike J.]

Does it look like Monogenean Flukes?

Marine Fish Diseases and Parasites

 

[Diazreeflife]

Does it look like Monogenean Flukes?

Marine Fish Diseases and Parasites

It kinda looks like that but how can I be certain? What should I do??

 

[WhoKnew]

Pull them out and quarantine them. Watch them in the QT. if it gets worse than you have then in the right place to treat them.

 

[Diazreeflife]

Pull them out and quarantine them. Watch them in the QT. if it gets worse than you have then in the right place to treat them.

Should I fill the QT with display tank water or use fresh water?

 

[NanaReefer]

Use fresh.

 

[WhoKnew]

Always use fresh salt water.

 

[Diazreeflife]

Use fresh.

ok i havnt had to use QT for sick fish only for new fish so should i use carbon in the QT? should i not use Carbon and start dosing meds like prazipro?

I have two filter i keep in my DT sump for my QT for beneficial bacterial should i use these as i usually do for Quarantining of new fish?

Should i do anything to my proactive to display tank so that this does not spread?

David

 

[Marshall O]

You should not run carbon in a QT that you are dosing meds in, such as Prazipro. Yes, move the filter (sponge?) to your QT as you thought.

 

[Diazreeflife]

Use fresh.

Someone told me i should use DT water for the QT since i will not have time to properly cycle it is this true or should i just go fresh salt water? Y use fresh over DT water?

Also should i do anything proactive to my DT so this does not spread?

 

[Marshall O]

There is very little bacteria in water, so there is little benefit to using the old water. By transferring the old water, you could be transferring any free swimming parasites. Best to avoid IMO.

As far as doing anything proactive to your DT, best thing to do is to QT all new fish for 6-8 weeks. Assume they have intestinal worms, and otherwise only treat for what illnesses you see. Reactively, the only thing you could do now to ensure your tank is free of Ich would be to remove every single fish, treat all for Ich, and leave the DT fallow (empty) for 10-12 weeks.

 

[Mike J.]

Have you confirmed that we are dealing with flukes here? There's ich treatment advice thrown in here.

If you are going to use medicines in the tank it's not really considered a QT tank, but a hospital tank. You wouldn't want to use your aged filters in a hospital tank; you'd do water changes. Have you considered a fresh water dip to kill the flukes?

 

[Diazreeflife]

Have you confirmed that we are dealing with flukes here? There's ich treatment advice thrown in here.

If you are going to use medicines in the tank it's not really considered a QT tank, but a hospital tank. You wouldn't want to use your aged filters in a hospital tank; you'd do water changes. Have you considered a fresh water dip to kill the flukes?

How do you do a freshwater dip?

 

[stunreefer Verified Sponsor]

Let's not jump to the drastic measure of 'pull everything' just yet... the new trigger was just moved and is surely still settling in. Pulling him and moving would not aid in reducing stress. If you're seeing one spot on the trigger, and something on the anthias (I can't tell in picture), I would likely keep feeding [very] heavy and keep your parameters in check in your display. Even with crystal clear pictures it's incredibly difficult to determine a fish ailment without a microscope, unless it's the very common ailments (and even then can be mistaken).

Obviously QT prior to adding to display for 6-8 weeks is ideal, which sounds like you did... but pulling everything when they are still eating fine and active is a mistake IMHO, until further signs of stress pop up. I would however get your QT running and ready, just in case. An 'ich free' display is something I'm not convinced exists, and frankly, who cares if it does... healthy fish can stave off most parasites with ease.

 

[Mike J.]

I agree with proceeding carefully and not stressing the fish more than necessary. I do not see Ich in the photos. But I do see, especially on the fins of the Anthias what appears to be Monogenean Flukes. If they are visible on the outside of the fish there is in all likelihood flukes in their gill area too. Flukes can be observed and identified with the naked eye. So, first let's identify the problem and then proceed with the correct method of treatment.

 

[Diazreeflife]

Let's not jump to the drastic measure of 'pull everything' just yet... the new trigger was just moved and is surely still settling in. Pulling him and moving would not aid in reducing stress. If you're seeing one spot on the trigger, and something on the anthias (I can't tell in picture), I would likely keep feeding [very] heavy and keep your parameters in check in your display. Even with crystal clear pictures it's incredibly difficult to determine a fish ailment without a microscope, unless it's the very common ailments (and even then can be mistaken).

Obviously QT prior to adding to display for 6-8 weeks is ideal, which sounds like you did... but pulling everything when they are still eating fine and active is a mistake IMHO, until further signs of stress pop up. I would however get your QT running and ready, just in case. An 'ich free' display is something I'm not convinced exists, and frankly, who cares if it does... healthy fish can stave off most parasites with ease.

I agree with proceeding carefully and not stressing the fish more than necessary. I do not see Ich in the photos. But I do see, especially on the fins of the Anthias what appears to be Monogenean Flukes. If they are visible on the outside of the fish there is in all likelihood flukes in their gill area too. Flukes can be observed and identified with the naked eye. So, first let's identify the problem and then proceed with the correct method of treatment.

I agree with both of you, I did QT the trigger and all my fish for a minimum of 6 weeks. I would like to go with the approach the causes the least amount of stress. So what do i do to determine if in fact this is Flukes and if it is what is the proper treatment?

 

[Mike J.]

Sure is hard to find a picture of Monogenean Flukes on saltwater fish. The pic in the chucks addiction link I gave you is a good one. Here is a close up of them.

 

[Diazreeflife]

Sure is hard to find a picture of Monogenean Flukes on saltwater fish. The pic in the chucks addiction link I gave you is a good one. Here is a close up of them.

it doesnt look raised up like the pic just a white little spot on the surface of the fin a couple on the body of the trigger.

 

[Mike J.]

Did you look over the Chuck's Addiction link. There's a very good picture there of Monogenean Flukes. Another diagnosis could be Lymphocyctis virus? If that's the case all you can do is maintain really good water quality and feed nutritious foods and it will go away on its own. Although Lymphocyctis is contagious it is actually difficult to pass to another fish unless the other fish are in poor health.