when can i get a bta

[laverda]

The reality there is a lot that happens in the first 6 months of a reef tank leading to it becoming and stable and established tank. In some tanks it will happen faster. In some it will take twice as long. Most tanks set up with dry rock take much longer to mature with many people reporting many issues along the way. There is so much more going on in a reef echo system than the few things we typically test for. So many unknowns even now.
ALK of 7.2 is on the low side. I would aim to keep it closer to 8. That way you will be ok if it swings a bit either way. It can change rapidly once you start adding corals, and coralline algae start growing, depending on what you add.
We all want to add to our tanks ASAP, but as someone else mentioned patience pays off in this hobby.

 

[ScottR]

This hobby is about patients. Don’t rush into getting things. I’ve had nems before and in my case one died and sold the other one. I don’t know anyone that knows more about nems than @James M when I was at 2 months I was dealing with bad hair algae then the next month my alk was reading 14 for what ever reason then after that I got ich. Now that my tank is mature I got rid of my nem and getting into sps and come to find out all my montis are dying from nudibranches. There’s always something new going on with my tank lol

I always find the first 2 months are the easiest. Tank is clean. Usually you don’t have it loaded with livestock, yet. Then the hitchhikers show their faces, algae shows up, then something in your tank fails, then alk swings. Then you start playing with your tank to reset it. It doesn’t happen to everyone but I know everyone deals with something by month 3,4 or 5. And beyond. Clownfish and LPS can be forgiving but an anemone will not in most cases.

 

[James M]

Not correct! While they do not use these elements they are most definitely affected by their levels. After all 90+% of an anemone is water.

I was telling him he’s correct that they don’t use those elements. Never said they aren’t affected by them. So I am correct

 

[James M]

I never smelled a dead nem before. But I’ve heard it’s something you don’t forget.

I’m not one to gag at bad smells but It was so awful, Like I wanted to throw up bad

 

[ScottR]

I’m not one to gag at bad smells but It was so awful, Like I wanted to throw up bad

I guess that’s a good reason to try as hard as possible to keep them alive. ;Hilarious

 

[laverda]

I was telling him he’s correct that they don’t use those elements. Never said they aren’t affected by them. So I am correct

We both probably should have worded our replies better. They way the OP said it implied they do not matter to anemones, to which you said correct. I don’t think we know if the use any of them or not. I have never seen anything saying one way or the other.

 

[James M]

We both probably should have worded our replies better. They way the OP said it implied they do not matter to anemones, to which you said correct. I don’t think we know if the use any of them or not. I have never seen anything saying one way or the other.

I agree, Should have been more specific.

 

[Dom]

by parameters do you mean nitrate and phosphate? i’m assuming cal/all/mag doesn’t really matter to an anemone considering they don’t use any of those nutrients

Nems are inflated with the water from the tank. They excrete waste by wringing themselves out (deflating) and then re-inflate with fresh water.

So to say that they don't use any of those nutrients may be true, but the nutrients are being taken in by the nem. I would think that fluctuations in those nutrients could potentially irritate the nem.

 

[Jon Fishman]

If you get a larger, healthy anemone they can handle a little more irritating etc and be fine. A little fresh split may die at the smallest swing

 

[EmptyWallet]

As per the others, stability of all water parameters (temp, salinity, ph come to mind for a nem) is key and that takes time. Rock \ substrate is the main component of a tank that needs time to stabilise. Even more importantly (in my opinion) the reef keeper needs time to stabilise, by making mistakes and learning from them. You cycle, then ugly phase, then algae outbreaks, then difficult fish, then you add this or that equipment, then you add this or that coral, each time rocking the boat of stability. Once you have a decent stable tank and a solid understanding of what is what and the impact of every change you make, then it's time to take on sensitive animals who won't forgive your mistakes, or even slight mis-calibrations.

I just lost a stunning BTA when I moved house. It was absolutely thriving, I did everything right (as far as matching water parameters, heat/oxygen in transport, waited for it to go on a piece of rock so I didn't have to touch its foot etc) but it just couldn't handle the change from 'old water to new' despite the key parameters all being equal between the old and new tank

 

[laverda]

If you get a larger, healthy anemone they can handle a little more irritating etc and be fine. A little fresh split may die at the smallest swing

I am curious what you base that statement on?

 

[mattzang]

idk much about nems, but is the fluval marine 3.0 led enough light for one?

 

[ScottR]

@tracereefer - Have you made a decision on the BTA yet?

 

[laverda]

idk much about nems, but is the fluval marine 3.0 led enough light for one?

I know nothing about that specific light, but even if I did we would need more information. What size tank? How deep? Will you be using more than one light? My guess is it will not be enough light.