When is a tank ready for an anemone?

[Nasabeau]

yeah I can’t see it being an issue, I’m just interested in the facts on this, I’m just not sure on the science, if it supports this or if it’s just something people believe.

yeah, thats the thing, I have no papers to cite, its just what I could find looking stuff up about starting aquariums. I didn't really see anything disputing it, so if figured hey, it clearly can't hurt if that's what most people do, right? and with the LFS keeping their water low, I figured the slower the transition the less likelihood I have of shocking the fish. a few months of slowly rising has got to be better than just straight 30 minutes of drip acclimation right?

 

[Reef.]

yeah, thats the thing, I have no papers to cite, its just what I could find looking stuff up about starting aquariums. I didn't really see anything disputing it, so if figured hey, it clearly can't hurt if that's what most people do, right?

I wouldn’t say most people do that, I believe some that run fish only tend to run slightly lower but again I’m not sure there is any evidence to support it’s a fish preference or better for them, until I read otherwise I think it’s just a belief.
For me my fall back if I’m unsure is try and keep things near to natural sea water as possible.
Please don’t take this as you are doing anything wrong as I don’t know, just thought it worth a comment, as said it shouldn’t be an issue.

 

[Hincapiej4]

35 ppt... that's what the tank likes.

 

[Dom]

I think it all comes down to experience level.

I have a Nem that is 854 days old. It went into a 10 gallon tank right after cycling.

 

[Nasabeau]

I wouldn’t say most people do that, I believe some that run fish only tend to run slightly lower but again I’m not sure there is any evidence to support it’s a fish preference or better for them, until I read otherwise I think it’s just a belief.
For me my fall back if I’m unsure is try and keep things near to natural sea water as possible.
Please don’t take this as you are doing anything wrong as I don’t know, just thought it worth a comment, as said it shouldn’t be an issue.

well, I do plan to bring it up. that's just my reasoning lol. I mean, all the little critters in there seem happy and healthy so...

 

[Reef.]

well, I do plan to bring it up. that's just my reasoning lol. I mean, all the little critters in there seem happy and healthy so...

that’s the main thing...who needs science

 

[Nasabeau]

I wouldn’t say most people do that, I believe some that run fish only tend to run slightly lower but again I’m not sure there is any evidence to support it’s a fish preference or better for them, until I read otherwise I think it’s just a belief.
For me my fall back if I’m unsure is try and keep things near to natural sea water as possible.
Please don’t take this as you are doing anything wrong as I don’t know, just thought it worth a comment, as said it shouldn’t be an issue.

here are some articles I'd read before starting

Ocellaris Clownfish - Amphiprion ocellaris | Aquatic Community

The Ocellaris clownfish is the perfect beginner fish. It is very hardy, not too aggressive and all together an easy species to care for.

www.aquaticcommunity.com

.

How to Measure Salinity in a Saltwater Aquarium - Marine Depot Blog

It goes without saying that salinity is the most fundamental parameter in a saltwater aquarium. Without salinity, it isn’t saltwater. Yet, perhaps precisely because salinity is such an important parameter, it is often overlooked. This article will explain what salinity is and why it is important...

blog.marinedepot.com

.

Ocellaris Clownfish Care, Fish Tank Setup, Feeding, Compatibility

Ocellaris clownfish are easy to care for! Discover the best foods for clownfish and learn about fishtank setup and care, maintenence, feeding & compatibility.

www.ocellarisclownfish.com

 

[Reef.]

here are some articles I'd read before starting

Ocellaris Clownfish - Amphiprion ocellaris | Aquatic Community

The Ocellaris clownfish is the perfect beginner fish. It is very hardy, not too aggressive and all together an easy species to care for.

www.aquaticcommunity.com

.

How to Measure Salinity in a Saltwater Aquarium - Marine Depot Blog

It goes without saying that salinity is the most fundamental parameter in a saltwater aquarium. Without salinity, it isn’t saltwater. Yet, perhaps precisely because salinity is such an important parameter, it is often overlooked. This article will explain what salinity is and why it is important...

blog.marinedepot.com

.

Ocellaris Clownfish Care, Fish Tank Setup, Feeding, Compatibility

Ocellaris clownfish are easy to care for! Discover the best foods for clownfish and learn about fishtank setup and care, maintenence, feeding & compatibility.

www.ocellarisclownfish.com

not trying to carry on flogging this subject but those links don’t say why they suggest the salinity they do and one even states it is because it’s cheaper on salt and can help kill parasites, not that it’s best for the fish.

it’s good you are reading a lot of info, just be careful you don’t follow some unknown site out there, it’s hard to know which to trust...present company excluded

 

[Nasabeau]

not trying to carry on flogging this subject but those links don’t say why they suggest the salinity they do and one even states it is because it’s cheaper on salt and can help kill parasites, not that it’s best for the fish.

it’s good you are reading a lot of info, just be careful you don’t follow some unknown site out there, it’s hard to know which to trust...present company excluded

I know they don't say why, I am unsure myself, but that's just what I was reading and why I chose to do it the way I did.

 

[j.falk]

The specific gravity of natural seawater (you know, from the ocean...the place where these things originate from) is 1.025 -1.026...it makes perfect sense to keep them in something lower than that for optimal health.

 

[xxkenny90xx]

Then you call Kenny and have him come over and solve the moot point problem.

BTAs typically split when they are stressed. A healthy BTA will keep getting larger and larger...ones that keep splitting usually mean something is wrong with the environment and they split to increase their chances of survival.

A BTA that finds a spot it likes rarely moves if left undisturbed.

Sure stress or trauma can cause nems to split but healthy nems will also split. Saying otherwise is just nonsense.

Fwiw I have a rose bta that hasnt split in years and is well over a foot in diameter. Literally right next to it I have a green bta and 2 rainbow btas that split regularly. Would you like to explain that? How do you believe healthy btas reproduce? Anyways I'm not into forum arguments, especially rediculas ones. See ya!

 

[terraincognita]

IMO. Your tank is ready for that Nem, when you feel like you get it. Until then. It wont be ready if it's 6 months or 6 years. Research, research, research.

QUESTION OF THE DAY - Anemones & Mature Tanks: Fact or Fiction? What makes a tank mature enough for one?

Today let's dive into the world of the sticky, stinging, beautiful, flowing tentacles of the anemone! It's always been said that you need a mature reef tank in order to house an anemone and to maintain it's health. Why is this and is this fact or fiction? Also what makes a tank mature and what...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Nasabeau]

I say go for it.

I'd add a Nem before adding corals.... Nems will move around until they find a happy spot. If you already have a bunch of corals in the tank, the Nem can sting them in the process.

I've found BTA's to be extremely hardy/easy to care for. Far easier than many corals. My euphyllia seem to be much more finicky than my BTA. I added fish, then a BTA, then corals. Haven't lost a single thing yet.

Unless the Nem is very large, and/or the tank very small, a dead Nem will not nuke your tank. Also, its pretty easy to tell when a Nem is not doing well. You would have plenty of time to remove it if things go south. I would not let the fear of your tank being nuked stop you from gettting the Nem. The whole tank nuking thing I believe is greatly exaggerated.. Their 'stings' are pretty mild at best. Its not like they have a bunch of toxin in them.

Saying that, I wouldn't buy a dying/bleached Nem. Try to find a nice healthy one and you should be fine.

I like the advice and I will take that into consideration, but as far as "go for it"... let me get a few more fish in there and the salinity up to my end goal reef levels before I go plopping a nem in there XD. glad to know BTAs are more hardy though. will definitely start there.

 

[Nasabeau]

Then you call Kenny and have him come over and solve the moot point problem.

BTAs typically split when they are stressed. A healthy BTA will keep getting larger and larger...ones that keep splitting usually mean something is wrong with the environment and they split to increase their chances of survival.

A BTA that finds a spot it likes rarely moves if left undisturbed.

So, Nem first then coral?

 

[Nasabeau]

IMO. Your tank is ready for that Nem, when you feel like you get it. Until then. It wont be ready if it's 6 months or 6 years. Research, research, research.

QUESTION OF THE DAY - Anemones & Mature Tanks: Fact or Fiction? What makes a tank mature enough for one?

Today let's dive into the world of the sticky, stinging, beautiful, flowing tentacles of the anemone! It's always been said that you need a mature reef tank in order to house an anemone and to maintain it's health. Why is this and is this fact or fiction? Also what makes a tank mature and what...

www.reef2reef.com

That is a very fair point and I know I am not ready for one at the moment even if my tank is. I've barely scratched the surface of getting to know my tank! I just wanted advice on it basically. I figure the more time I spend researching it before pulling the trigger, the better chance I have at success. but I know I want nems, I love how they look, so I figured the best place to start my research was here. everyone is always so helpful!

 

[Reef.]

So, Nem first then coral?

they tend to prefer high flow and a lot of light so you could add those corals that are unlikely to be in the nem’s preferred location, doesn’t mean it won’t trample all over them on the way there though

 

[terraincognita]

That is a very fair point and I know I am not ready for one at the moment even if my tank is. I've barely scratched the surface of getting to know my tank! I just wanted advice on it basically. I figure the more time I spend researching it before pulling the trigger, the better chance I have at success. but I know I want nems, I love how they look, so I figured the best place to start my research was here. everyone is always so helpful!

Yessir, that thread I linked is a good read.

Otherwise browse the Anemone and Clownfish Forum there's a lot of good pinned threads there too re: nems.

 

[Nasabeau]

there tend to prefer high flow and a lot of light so you could add those corals that are unlikely to be in the men’s preferred location.

I actually have a place in my tank that I kinda tried to design for a nem. very turbulent flow right in the light on top of my rockwork. although from what I've read, its not likely to go where I want it XD

 

[terraincognita]

Only reason I'd add nem before corals is placement. If you have a bunch of expensive SPS and the nem kills them while he moves around you'll be sad.

Guaranteed softies and some LPS will be easier to keep than a nem. But again those can be killed by a nem too.

However if you can keep a hammer and frogspawn and torch alive and growing, you'll probably be able to keep a BTA too.

 

[terraincognita]

I actually have a place in my tank that I kinda tried to design for a nem. very turbulent flow right in the light on top of my rockwork.

Good pre-thoughts, but they move whenever and however they want.

I've made "spots" for nems I thought they'd love. Ha.