When Parasite Can’t Attach To Host

CoralsAddiction

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What happens after a tank wipeout by cryptocaryon and only one fish survives and does not get the disease?
does the parasite die off?
had a huge outbreak and a sand burrowing wrasse didn’t get it. He’s been caught and removed but spent 2 weeks in the tank by himself after everyone else died.
 
The one that survived needs to be treated with copper as if he is infected even if he does not currently show signs.

With the fish removed from the tank and completely fallow (no fish at all), any remaining parasites will die off. This can take up to 72 days and increasing the tank temperature can speed this up. I believe the current consensus is 6 weeks at 80F, 5 weeks at 82F and 3 weeks at 86F. If you still have corals, I would do 80F 6 weeks minimum.
 
The idea is take away the food source for the parasite by removing the fish and treating in a separate quarantine for a full 30 days with coppersafe at therapuetic levels. For the display tank, go fishless 45-60 days and at day 30 , siphon surfaces to remove any dead tromonts. Coral and inverts safe during fishless period known as Fallow - but remember to give them occasional feedings. No need to raise tank temperature and risk having to warm of temperature for bacteria.
 
Unless OP runs at 78 or less. No risk in bumping up to 80-81.
When temp goes up, oxygen levels come down. No advantage to the myth that parastes have a shorter life cycle in warmer temps. Velvet maybe- Others, None
 
When temp goes up, oxygen levels come down. No advantage to the myth that parastes have a shorter life cycle in warmer temps. Velvet maybe- Others, None
I'm not sure where you are getting that it's a myth from.


Is one peer reviewed example for ich specifically.


I am totally on board with your point that going too high can risk bacteria populations even if corals were not present. That is a good point I did not consider.
 
Myth? Why is that a myth? Heat can speed things up for some organisms.
While warmer tank temps CAN enable SOME aquatic life to grow faster, it also causes them to use more oxygen and produce more waste and in turn warmer water is unable to maintain enough oxygen to support the fish and invertebrates or the waste-eliminating bacteria. Obviously, this is not a sustainable situation. The animals' metabolic rates rise as temperature rises causing them to use more oxygen, carbon dioxide, nutrients, and produce higher waste production.

Here is an article From Randy Holmes Farley- out water expert:

Here's the temperature blurb from one of my articles:

Temperature

Temperature impacts reef aquarium inhabitants in a variety of ways. First and foremost, the animals' metabolic rates rise as temperature rises. They may consequently use more oxygen, carbon dioxide, nutrients, calcium and alkalinity at higher temperatures. This higher metabolic rate can also increase both their growth rate and waste production at higher temperatures.

Another important impact of temperature is on the chemical aspects of the aquarium. The solubility of dissolved gases such as oxygen and carbon dioxide, for example, changes with temperature. Oxygen, in particular, can be a concern because it is less soluble at higher temperature.

So what does this imply for aquarists?

In most instances, trying to match the natural environment in a reef aquarium is a worthy goal. Temperature may, however, be a parameter that requires accounting for the practical considerations of a small closed system. Looking to the ocean as a guide for setting temperatures in reef aquaria may present complications, because corals grow in such a wide range of temperatures. Nevertheless, Ron Shimek has shown in a previous article that the greatest variety of corals are found in water whose average temperature is about 83-86° F.

Reef aquaria (fish/inverts) do, however, have limitations that may make their optimal temperature somewhat lower. During normal functioning of a reef aquarium, the oxygen level and the metabolic rate of the aquarium inhabitants are not often important issues. During a crisis such as a power failure, however, the dissolved oxygen can be rapidly used up. Lower temperatures not only allow a higher oxygen level before an emergency, but will also slow the consumption of that oxygen by slowing the metabolism of the aquarium's inhabitants. The production of ammonia as organisms begin to die may also be slower at lower temperatures. For reasons such as this, one may choose to strike a practical balance between temperatures that are too high (even if corals normally thrive in the ocean at those temperatures), and those that are too low. Although average reef temperatures in maximal diversity areas (i.e. coral triangle centered Indonesia,) these areas are also often subject to significant mixing. In fact, the cooler reefs, ( i..e. open Pacific reefs) are often more stable at lower temperatures due to oceanic exchange but are less tolerant to bleaching and other temperature related perturbations.

All things considered, those natural guidelines leave a fairly wide range of acceptable temperatures. I keep my aquarium at about 80-81° F year-round. I am actually more inclined to keep the aquarium cooler in the summer, when a power failure would most likely warm the aquarium, and higher in winter, when a power failure would most likely cool it.
 
Raising temperature can definitely speed up ich’s lifecycle. There have been studies specifically of marine ich.

Fish and many corals can handle 81F
 
What happens after a tank wipeout by cryptocaryon and only one fish survives and does not get the disease?
does the parasite die off?
had a huge outbreak and a sand burrowing wrasse didn’t get it. He’s been caught and removed but spent 2 weeks in the tank by himself after everyone else died.
The risk is that the wrasse could be hosting a chronic infection - not becoming acute for the wrasse, but perhaps for new fish added later on. If you don’t quarantine your fish, this issue is only going to marginally increase the chance your fish will get ich in the future - the risk is fairly high. If you DO intend to quarantine, this possible reservoir of infection is an issue.
I would run the wrasse through 30 days of coppersafe and leave the tank fallow of all fish for X amount of time - 45 to 75 days depending on temperature and your risk tolerance.
Jay
 

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