Did I not say test for P04 first?@bluecheese don't dose NeoPhos (or any phosphate) if you're not testing for it. Going to do a lot more harm than good if you're not keeping tabs on your levels
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Did I not say test for P04 first?@bluecheese don't dose NeoPhos (or any phosphate) if you're not testing for it. Going to do a lot more harm than good if you're not keeping tabs on your levels
The plan is to start testing phosphate and go from there. Right now I'm testing pH, ammonia, Nitrite, nitrate. Phosphate testing never crossed my mind until now.@bluecheese don't dose NeoPhos (or any phosphate) if you're not testing for it. Going to do a lot more harm than good if you're not keeping tabs on your levels
I also use a Hanna ULR and love it.I am really happy with the Hanna ULR but it is up to you.
You can't avoid the ugly stage, only delay it
The BRS guys also say there's no way to avoid the ugly stage.See, this is where this hobby seems to be more of an art than a science. The BRS guys recommend leaving the lights off for a while to avoid the uglies. Yall are saying otherwise. Who's correct in this matter?
And I got the idea to leave the lights off to avoid the ugly stage from their 5 minutes series. And yes, like all humans, they can change their stance when presented with new evidence.The BRS guys also say there's no way to avoid the ugly stage.
Excellent advice. I have a refugium, I just haven't put macroalgae in it yet. Right now its filled with rocks for extra biological filtration. I need to order a fuge light and some chaeto (as well as some pods, because why not)If you have a sump/refugium, grow enough healthy chaeto in there first for a few weeks before you turn on the light in the DT. You can totally avoid the ugly stage. I am into freshwater plant tank too and this is very common way we do to beat all kind of green algae when we start a new plant tank. I do the same thing with my 210 reef tank and I never has the ugly stage for even one day.
That is true. My chaeto suck out all my NO3 and PO4 even I am on the heavy feeling. I have to do daily dose of NO3 and PO4 to keep up with the demands so that my SPS, LPS don't starve.I ran lights off for like the first 3 months. Did not turn them on till corals were added. Still had an ugly stage but it has been relatively manageable compared to others I have seen. I dont think you will avoid yours but if you go low light intensity and maybe 6 hours the next few months you should have a lower level ugly stage also. Be careful your fuge doesn't bottom out numbers in your DT.
Looking good. I like the mix of green color on freshwater tank and the blue color of the reef tankExcellent advice. I have a refugium, I just haven't put macroalgae in it yet. Right now its filled with rocks for extra biological filtration. I need to order a fuge light and some chaeto (as well as some pods, because why not)
Edit: I'm also into planted tanks. Here's mine at home
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tooLove the Dutch style colors in that tank.Looking good. I like the mix of green color on freshwater tank and the blue color of the reef tanktoo
Here is my 100 gal
There are many factors that contribute to the ugly stage. Just by delay turning on the lights will not help much. I am coming from the high tech CO2 injected Plant tank and we are using lighting in the high intensity of the par like 700 to 1000. We have to deploy all the tricks man known to combat all the unwanted algae to grow in the water column. And it can be done.I waited 4 months to turn lights on. Started this tank 5/1/20. Been battling the uglys for the past 4 months....seems I didn't avoid, just delayed like others have said.
I would say doesn’t really matter. As long as you don’t have corals yet you can do reduced intensity.My tank finished cycling. Does it matter which light to turn on to get the ugly stage going like the blue, violet, whites? I have the AI primes

