Where am I in the cycle?

[Plecosam]

I cycle with the lights on, screw the frownies!

 

[TEX]

Well, riddle me confused!

3 days in a row I've tested ammonia to be what I would consider the exact same color on the Salifert test—and the color doesn't even really match up with anything in my eyes. I've recently read some pretty negative reviews on this particular test from Salifert, so I'm unsure whether the test is just off or my ammonia level has in-fact stalled. If it's the latter, I'd be pretty bummed given the Dr. Tim's One & Only claims. I haven't done anything out of the ordinary with the tank, and the expiration on Dr. Tim's was sometime in 2021.

(First pic looks like there's more liquid because it's leaning forward)

I'm by no means trying to rush anything, and I'm not going to do anything rash like say "screw it" and add fish anyway. I know the reality is that many people have cycled tanks much much longer before adding anything to the tank. I guess I just don't know what the next best step is... I'd hate to wait if it's a matter of my tests being off.

 

[Plecosam]

Looks like Ammonia is in between 1 and 1.5

 

[TEX]

Looks like Ammonia is in between 1 and 1.5

Just seems like it's stayed there for 72 hours, which is odd

 

[Plecosam]

No it looks to have dropped, the first test is much closer to 2 and is an orange colour, the other tests c are more yellow .

 

[Plecosam]

Have you tested for nitrite or nitrate?

 

[TEX]

Yes! Just tested nitrate and nitrate--

nitrite: 2
nitrate: between 25-50 (but closer to 50)

 

[TEX]

Here’s my NO2+NO3 test, in case I’m off on my color matching again. I guess on the bright side, I know that things are changing!

 

[brandon429]

Your cycle has been done for days, you are using dated cycling methods/those range tank to tank.

using updated methods, the ones where 400 reefs all start on the same date at the convention, you could have made the start date long about wednesday this week.

want to know how to proof your cycle as done?

 

[brandon429]

we are missing tank pics, we need those

you have stated submersion time, thats one axis on cycling charts solved for.


we are about to discern pics of surface area, vs test kits, thats places for bacteria to attach.

you have added known bottle bac, they're not dead.

the only param that matters at this specific phase is the ammonia phase of a cycling chart. if you have moved down ammonia to any degree since the start, you are ready.

zero not required, most of these test kits dont show zero well since there is no zero in reefing its all .00X thousands ppm active ammonia, seneye shows.

you need a method of cycling that reflects you are not using seneye ammonia.

lastly, nitrate and nitrite dont factor...only ammonia, surface area, submersion time + boosters and we are about to prove all those.

*the way reef conventions w 400 full reefs with fish and corals start on time, all on the same date, is by controlling ammonia. The tanks aren't partially cycled, they're literally cycled because bottle bac can do that with concentrated strains or they are live rock transfer setups. these bacteria are abundant and adapted to anything wet; not hard to bottle them.

if you wanted to re dose ammonia up a little, and check it tomorrow...back down to any degree means cycled, if you're using sand and rocks.

 

[brandon429]

additional way to prove its cycled: change out the algae water, and add something. it will live.

ammonia it emits will be going down all the time.

where you are at in the cycle: at the crossroads choice between following 3x param compliance cycling and ammonia only cycling.

 

[TEX]

we are missing tank pics, we need those

you have stated submersion time, thats one axis on cycling charts solved for.


we are about to discern pics of surface area, vs test kits, thats places for bacteria to attach.

you have added known bottle bac, they're not dead.

the only param that matters at this specific phase is the ammonia phase of a cycling chart. if you have moved down ammonia to any degree since the start, you are ready.

zero not required, most of these test kits dont show zero well since there is no zero in reefing its all .00X thousands ppm active ammonia, seneye shows.

you need a method of cycling that reflects you are not using seneye ammonia.

lastly, nitrate and nitrite dont factor...only ammonia, surface area, submersion time + boosters and we are about to prove all those.

*the way reef conventions w 400 full reefs with fish and corals start on time, all on the same date, is by controlling ammonia. The tanks aren't partially cycled, they're literally cycled because bottle bac can do that with concentrated strains or they are live rock transfer setups. these bacteria are abundant and adapted to anything wet; not hard to bottle them.

if you wanted to re dose ammonia up a little, and check it tomorrow...back down to any degree means cycled, if you're using sand and rocks.

Hey Brandon, that’s all super interesting... here’s a current full tank pic

There currently hasn’t been any algae growth, but I definitely get readings of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, so I do know things are moving.

 

[brandon429]

In fact: that rock shows the hallmarking of already cycled rock, thats one of the other options listed above for starting reef conventions on time.

Liferock, the painted-purple dry start rock that still takes ~10 days to activate isnt skip-cycle rock and its typically painted 100% covered purple, not a spot gray. you can tell its not real coralline because its 100% covered in deep purple even when dry.


that rock looks like it came from another living aquarium and stayed wet into your tank



that above looks like real live rock, patches of coralline and alternating living pigments, some wavy attachments (but living) and algae, maybe some hydroid worms...is that rock upon close inspection coated in living things??

I expected your rock to be bone white; all white base rock.

 

[TEX]

In fact: that rock shows the hallmarking of already cycled rock, thats one of the other options listed above for starting reef conventions on time.

Liferock, the painted-purple dry start rock that still takes ~10 days to activate isnt skip-cycle rock and its typically painted 100% covered purple, not a spot gray. you can tell its not real coralline because its 100% covered in deep purple even when dry.


that rock looks like it came from another living aquarium and stayed wet into your tank



that above looks like real live rock, patches of coralline and alternating living pigments, some wavy attachments (but living) and algae, maybe some hydroid worms...is that rock upon close inspection coated in living things??

Actually, funny enough, this is that Caribsea LifeRock, but it does look significantly more "seasoned" than it typically does. I am using live sand though

 

[TEX]

additional way to prove its cycled: change out the algae water, and add something. it will live.

ammonia it emits will be going down all the time.

where you are at in the cycle: at the crossroads choice between following 3x param compliance cycling and ammonia only cycling.

I guess my thought is, if my tank is in-fact cycled, should I do a significant water change before adding anything given the high level of nitrates at this point?

 

[brandon429]

ok great. either way the 10 days plus bottle bac plus ammonia moved down is all set. that sand, additional bac. anything wet/has the filtration bac plus you gave time to seat in place.

Any starting bioload you add right now, will live.

yes to large wc, its for algae fuel removal.

 

[TEX]

ok great. either way the 10 days plus bottle bac plus ammonia moved down is all set. that sand, additional bac. anything wet/has the filtration bac plus you gave time to seat in place.

Any starting bioload you add right now, will live.

yes to large wc, its for algae fuel removal.

Great to know, is there a percentage you'd recommend (or a percentage you'd recommend not doing, ie. 100%)?

 

[brandon429]

any degree will not hurt including it all.

Dr. Reef Has a bottle bac thread of 90 pages where he tests bb

it all adheres and becomes immune to full water changes within ten days, all of them. He stamped his measures close bottle to bottle when after a full water change, the test vessel was re-hit with ammonia and it lowered again due to surface adhered bac. additionally, a typical easy bioload isn't 2ppm all the time, thats a pretty large amnt for initial clearance, you're set.

 

[TEX]

any degree will not hurt including it all.

Dr. Reef Has a bottle bac thread of 90 pages where he tests bb

it all adheres and becomes immune to full water changes within ten days, all of them. He stamped his measures close bottle to bottle when after a full water change, the test vessel was re-hit with ammonia and it lowered again due to surface adhered bac. additionally, a typical easy bioload isn't 2ppm all the time, thats a pretty large amnt for initial clearance, you're set.

Awesome, thank you so much for your help!!

 

[Perthegallon]

Brief overview: Added dr. Tim's One & Only plus 2ppm ammonium chloride last night. Tested 24hrs later and these are my results—

ammonia: ~0.15-0.25
nitrite: 0 (I think?)
nitrate: 0 (I think?)

It's really difficult for me to read the test kit (partially colorblind) and the shadows kind of messed with me, despite being in the best lit room I could find.

I went ahead and dosed ammonium chloride again and will test in 24hrs. Just wanted some reassurance of where I'm at.

your done? but i dont undestand why your nitrate are low did you water change