Where to get 3-way valves for splitting a return?

Luananeko

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Okay, this is technically a question for plumbing a freshwater tank, not a reef tank, but I figured everyone here would have more experience. I have a 90g DT with a 40g sump and the return pump is too strong for my fish to swim comfortably. I want to split the water coming back from the sump to have part of the flow go back into the sump so I'm not restricting my return pump output. Normally I get my sump plumbing parts from Home Depot and Ace Hardware, as none of my LFS carry them. All of the staff at Home Depot & Ace Hardware looked at me like I grew an extra head when I described what I was trying to do and said they had nothing like that.

Where the heck do you find valves to do this? I've found a couple places online so far after several hours of digging, but the smallest I found was a 1.5" diameter for each of the ports, while my return plumbing is 7/8". Sure, I can get pieces to upsize the tubing and then downsize it after, but I feel like this is overcomplicating things. There's gotta be an easier way that I'm missing. Help!
 
I order all my valves from Valworx, including three-way. They might be a tad on the expensive side but I consider these to be an investment since they can be reused over and over.


And here is my three-way in action...

1647446370176.png
 
Any reason you can't just install a Tee after your return pump, install a ball valve inline routed back to the sump?

Opening the valve more reduces the flow to the main returns into the tank.
 
Any reason you can't just install a Tee after your return pump, install a ball valve inline routed back to the sump?

Opening the valve more reduces the flow to the main returns into the tank.

I considered that, but I don't have much experience with plumbing so I wasn't sure if it would allow me to bleed off the flow enough without killing the amount being returned to the DT... I figured that the water would take the path of least resistance and mostly abandon the other path so I'd end up in a situation where I either have way too much going to the DT, or way too much going back to the sump. Does that not happen?
 
I considered that, but I don't have much experience with plumbing so I wasn't sure if it would allow me to bleed off the flow enough without killing the amount being returned to the DT... I figured that the water would take the path of least resistance and mostly abandon the other path so I'd end up in a situation where I either have way too much going to the DT, or way too much going back to the sump. Does that not happen?
Your thinking is correct. Most water will take the path of least resistance which is still going to be the main return lines which are not restricted.

You are essentially creating a bleed in the line. You have two high of a volume running through your returns at this point, remove some of the volume by pushing less through.

The ball valve creates enough restriction in your "loop line" that you will be able to walk it from Fully closed, to incrementally open. Keep moving a hair at a time until you have the flow that you want in your display.

@F i s h y got a sump picture of the lagoon handy?
 
You can use a ball or gate valve on both legs after the tee and balance the flow anyway you like.

But why not just throttle the return pump? I will not hurt it and it will use less power.
 
You can use a ball or gate valve on both legs after the tee and balance the flow anyway you like.

But why not just throttle the return pump? I will not hurt it and it will use less power.
Ahh, I hadn't thought about a ball valve on both legs. I knew I was overcomplicating things :P

I prefer diverting some of the flow since I have fluidized K1 media in the sump, so the extra flow will help keep things tumbling.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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