Which controller did you get?

In your opinion, what are the pros and cons?
This could take a while, lol, but short and simple, The GHL build quality is better in my opinion, but they need to improve connectivity, while Apex connectivity is good. Their are so many pros and cons to both, If you look at my apex to GHL conversion thread it has a lot more of the pros and cons as I steadily transfer over to GHL.

Since you have both Apex and GHL and this is currently the internal argument I've got going on, can you highlight the GHL's weaknesses in your opinion? From what I can gather, the ION Director and KH Director are way more accurate than the Trident, and run for 1/2 the cost even though the initial cost is double.
So far, the only weakness I have had to deal with is the connectivity. It could just be an issue with my router that is a dual band 2.4/5. Not sure yet, but, it nots that big of a deal as I have no issue connecting to my P4 thru MyGHL on my phone. I mainly have an issue with my desktop. I like the fact that I can not tell you the last time I have changed the reagent on my KHD. I think I am 3 reagent changes in on my Trident. Still waiting on my IOND, but know people who have it and they swear by it. Going from Apex to GHL, I am having to learn the coding all over again.
 
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I went with Hydros a few months ago. The X4 and ATO kit did everything I needed:
1) Temp monitor and chart. Turns off power to separate temp controller if too high.
2) PH monitor and chart.
3) Skimmer cup sensor shuts off Skimmer and alerts me when full.
4) ATO kit sensor in return section controls the ATO pump.
5) ATO pump plugs into the X4
6) ATO water level sensor alerts me when the resovior gets low.
7) CO2 scrubber solenoid connected to the X4 drive port and is triggered by ph value.
8) 3rd party button/switch box plugged into the 0-10v input port makes it easy to switch to Feed, Water Change, etc modes.
9) 0-10v out port controls the Varios DC return pump.

I ended up getting the Hydros XS for four more sensor ports. So far I only have a high water level sensor for the sump and a rope-based leak detector connected to it. These are strictly for alerting me on major issues and give much greater peace of mind while I am away.

Oh, and I also added the Hydros wifi fish feeder. It's cheap and works great with the hydros system. I can manipulate the feeding program while away!

I'm really looking forward to the Hydros power bar controller when it is released.
 
Have been very happy so far with my Hydros. I was already running a WaveEngine and was comfortable and familiar with the UI so it just seemed natural to get the Hydros. XP8 will probably come next for redundancy and some things hard wired just for some additional insurance. I have not found anything I couldnt do with it so far, so thats great.


Not a ton of support here on R2R but the coralvue forum is very repsonsive and has helped me on a couple small issues early on.

After getting a proper Wifi Router with the 5ghz turned off, it has been flawless and hasnt dropped a signal since.
I do admit, when running it off of my Xfinity Gateway all in one, it dropped wifi a lot but that was due to conflicting Wifi names and passwords with the 2.4ghz and 5ghz wifi signals.
 
So far, the only weakness I have had to deal with is the connectivity. It could just be an issue with my router that is a dual band 2.4/5. Not sure yet, but, it nots that big of a deal as I have no issue connecting to my P4 thru MyGHL on my phone. I mainly have an issue with my desktop.
Have you separated the different bands to separate SSID's? My 2.4GHz is one name, and my 5GHz is another name, there are tons of devices on the market that have an issue when the two are named the same, so this could be what you're running into. However, it's quite strange that if that were the issue and you're still able to connect remotely with your cellphone, but the Computer (presumably on the same network) is the device having problems. Are you by chance in a multi-router setup? (ISP Provided as well as your own?) and if so, can you tell me where the PC sits in relation to the GHL? I would imagine that If the first part is true (dual routers) your GHL is connected directly to the ISP-provided router/modem and your PC is connected behind your second router. If that's the case you're having a problem with multiple DHCP protocols. Log into the router with the PC connected and switch it to AccessPoint Mode. That will fix the problem for good. If that's not the case, I could maybe help you dig deeper if you want to PM me so we don't derail this thread.
 
Have you separated the different bands to separate SSID's? My 2.4GHz is one name, and my 5GHz is another name, there are tons of devices on the market that have an issue when the two are named the same, so this could be what you're running into. However, it's quite strange that if that were the issue and you're still able to connect remotely with your cellphone, but the Computer (presumably on the same network) is the device having problems. Are you by chance in a multi-router setup? (ISP Provided as well as your own?) and if so, can you tell me where the PC sits in relation to the GHL? I would imagine that If the first part is true (dual routers) your GHL is connected directly to the ISP-provided router/modem and your PC is connected behind your second router. If that's the case you're having a problem with multiple DHCP protocols. Log into the router with the PC connected and switch it to AccessPoint Mode. That will fix the problem for good. If that's not the case, I could maybe help you dig deeper if you want to PM me so we don't derail this thread.
I don't have an issue connecting, its staying connected. I never noticed it on my phone as I don't leave it connected like I do on my desktop. I will figure it out when I get some time, as I am converting to GHL from Apex for a reason.

And maybe sometime, down the road, I will do a GHL, Apex, Hydros comparison. Maybe I should say way down the road as buying a full GHL system cost me a small fortune, LOL!!!
 
Do your heaters have thermostats on them you can use as a backup. I would alway have a backup to turn them off just in case. I use the Hydros to control the heaters but the heater have thermostats on them I have set about 3 degrees higher than the setting on the Hydros. Heater failures of some kind seem to be one of the biggest causes of tank crashes. Also alway split the heating wattage needed between at least two heater.That way one failure will give you time to respond. Also have them on separate outputs.
Yes. That is what I have done. Amazed at how well it works. The hydros turns it off and keeps it more regulated than the heaters. The graph says it’s within 1 1/2 degrees. It was all over the place before.
 
Yes. That is what I have done. Amazed at how well it works. The hydros turns it off and keeps it more regulated than the heaters. The graph says it’s within 1 1/2 degrees. It was all over the place before.
I also use the chiller output type to turn on fans to help cool the tank. Evaporative cooling does work well cooling the tank. I have LED lighting and the house is air conditioned so it does not require a chiller to keep the temp regulated.
 
Do your heaters have thermostats on them you can use as a backup. I would alway have a backup to turn them off just in case. I use the Hydros to control the heaters but the heater have thermostats on them I have set about 3 degrees higher than the setting on the Hydros. Heater failures of some kind seem to be one of the biggest causes of tank crashes. Also alway split the heating wattage needed between at least two heater.That way one failure will give you time to respond. Also have them on separate outputs.
This is how I run mine on my Hydros. I have x2 200w Cobalt Neotherms with thier own thermostat built it, set a few degree's higher than my Hydros. It has been a good setup so far and keeps the temp within a 1/2 a degree

Hydrostempstability.JPG
 
I have the apex and I should have gone with Coralvue. The Apex won’t stay connected over night and the one fix I keep hearing is to hardwire. The whole point of getting the new Apex was the wireless. Hardwiring defeats the purpose.
 
I have the apex and I should have gone with Coralvue. The Apex won’t stay connected over night and the one fix I keep hearing is to hardwire. The whole point of getting the new Apex was the wireless. Hardwiring defeats the purpose.
Can you add an access point with a different name and setup the Apex on that access point? All wifi devices can have an issue with connectivity depending on where they are and where the router is. Also outside influences can cause issues like a neighbor's wifi can interfere with it. Anything in between the router and the Apex can cause a signal loss also.
 
Can you add an access point with a different name and setup the Apex on that access point? All wifi devices can have an issue with connectivity depending on where they are and where the router is. Also outside influences can cause issues like a neighbor's wifi can interfere with it. Anything in between the router and the Apex can cause a signal loss also.
I have a mesh network with the Apex 6 feet away. I have tried resetting and reserving IP. It is on 2.4, and security is wpa2
 
I went from the Digital Aquatics Archon to the Hydros. So far it has been able to do every thing I was doing with the Archon. That includes heaters, cooling fans, Return pump and skimmer at the tank. It also controls my RODI unit along with my three storage tanks in the garage. It also controls ATO, AWC and All for Reef dosing. I have a DI storage tank in the garage for ATO. When it goes low it turns on the RODI and refills it. I also have a fresh saltwater storage tank in the garage that is used for AWC. when it goes low it refills it with water from the mix tank if it is ready to use. Once the water is transferred it will turn on the RODI and refill the mix tank. all I have to do is add the salt mix and press a push button when it is ready for use. Of course this was all being done previously with my Archon. I was even able to use most of the sensors I was using with the Archon except the temp sensors. I have been using it for over a year and really like it.
Can you post some pics! Trying to smarten up my tanks.
 
3B41B278-5033-47E1-B9BE-B67908B5EF13.jpeg

So I got the icecap gyre flow pump 2K a couple of days ago. It came with a controller run on the Hydros app. I only use it now for the gyre pump. What all can I do with this light edition? Where can I find info on how to use Hydro lite controller and App? Do I need to get another Hydro’s controller to do everything you guys have mentioned in this thread? I’ve don’t a little bit of internet search on this but didn’t learn much.
 
3B41B278-5033-47E1-B9BE-B67908B5EF13.jpeg

So I got the icecap gyre flow pump 2K a couple of days ago. It came with a controller run on the Hydros app. I only use it now for the gyre pump. What all can I do with this light edition? Where can I find info on how to use Hydro lite controller and App? Do I need to get another Hydro’s controller to do everything you guys have mentioned in this thread? I’ve don’t a little bit of internet search on this but didn’t learn much.
Thats how they get you, you need a control 2, 3, or 4 to do most of the basic stuff.
i think if you get their powerstrip it will control outlets as well.
there are lots of videos out there are probably the best info sources as hydros in general is pretty new.
 
Thats how they get you, you need a control 2, 3, or 4 to do most of the basic stuff.
i think if you get their powerstrip it will control outlets as well.
there are lots of videos out there are probably the best info sources as hydros in general is pretty new.
Gotcha, I’ll look for more videos. Trying to get more tech savvy. It says the lite connects up to 8 wifi devices. What device options are there? I know this controller can run 2 gyros or power heads but what else? Where would you suggest I go from here as far as smartest next purchase to get the most out of hydros...Appreciate your helpful knowledge...
 
I have a mesh network with the Apex 6 feet away. I have tried resetting and reserving IP. It is on 2.4, and security is wpa2
I think they dont work as well with Mesh setup.
Also I was having issues where it was dropping my power bars all the time. I have wifi 6 and separate ch for 2.4 and 5ghz . I even turned off wifi 6 on the 2.4 and gave them static IP it would still drop.
I finally pulled out an old cheap router and plugged it in and setup a network on it and ONLY my hydros is connected to it and it has never dropped since then.
 
I have a mesh network with the Apex 6 feet away. I have tried resetting and reserving IP. It is on 2.4, and security is wpa2
The Hydros has issues with mesh networks also. Most people with them add a access point with a different name just for the controller and aquarium devices.
 
3B41B278-5033-47E1-B9BE-B67908B5EF13.jpeg

So I got the icecap gyre flow pump 2K a couple of days ago. It came with a controller run on the Hydros app. I only use it now for the gyre pump. What all can I do with this light edition? Where can I find info on how to use Hydro lite controller and App? Do I need to get another Hydro’s controller to do everything you guys have mentioned in this thread? I’ve don’t a little bit of internet search on this but didn’t learn much.
Here is a link to the online manual for this https://www.coralvuehydros.com/product-support/icecap-dual-pump-controller/
 
Can you post some pics! Trying to smarten up my tanks.
I discuss the Hydros controllers and have some photos on my build thread here on R2R. Click on my build thread banner to go to it. The Hydros stuff is on the last few pages I believe. If something is not there that you are interested in let me know.
 
I discuss the Hydros controllers and have some photos on my build thread here on R2R. Click on my build thread banner to go to it. The Hydros stuff is on the last few pages I believe. If something is not there that you are interested in let me know.
Wow, I got a lot to learn! Technology left me in the 90’s....Lol
 

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