Which flash diffuser?

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I just bought a Canon Speedlite 270EX II. I asked for a flash that wasn't too powerful. It seems to be doing pretty well, but it's still too bright on lowest setting, and too focused. I assume a diffuser will help me? I am camera illiterate, but manage to get half decent shots if I take enough pics. :D

Please suggest a diffuser for me. :)
 
It's not the diffuser you want to decrease intensity. Use ISO Asa and as well as shutter and iris.

Your not on auto are you?o_O

Yea Ken Rockwel is a Nikon Guru but you'll learn a lot from this guy on how to use a flash.
 
Auto? Hahaha! I'm just using an old Canon G9 though...

Ok, I know what ISO and shutter are, but what is ISO Asa and iris?

I'll look up Ken Rockwel, thanks! :D
 
ISO and Asa are the same just different standards.
Iris. Hmmm. o_O Me thinks you'll be a googlin.

Ok that's an advanced point n shoot. Yea. There's different flash settings and types for indoors and close ups. It changes the intensity.
And I don't know if they make a diffuser for that. You can in a pinch use Sctch tape.
Or like me my finger over half the flash.
 
Hahaha, I was using the half a finger trick. It was working fairly well actually. :)

I was just going into "flash control" which shows a bar, and I turned it down as low as it would go which is 1/64. This is the only flash control I've found. I see iris is the same as aperture aka f-stop. I've been playing with the f-stop from f2.8-f5, shutter speed around 1/125-1/250 and ISO200 (my camera gets grainy at ISO400). The flash seems too focused, like an impeller rather than a propeller. :D
 
Hahaha, I was using the half a finger trick. It was working fairly well actually. :)

I was just going into "flash control" which shows a bar, and I turned it down as low as it would go which is 1/64. This is the only flash control I've found. I see iris is the same as aperture aka f-stop. I've been playing with the f-stop from f2.8-f5, shutter speed around 1/125-1/250 and ISO200 (my camera gets grainy at ISO400). The flash seems too focused, like an impeller rather than a propeller. :D
Yup limitation of the camera sadly.
 
Also try pointing it at the ceiling, and the wall next to or behind you. You may need to actually turn UP the power of the flash depending on the room your in.
Check out Ken's flash tricks. And lighting tips.
 
Buy a cable to use your flash off camera. Then increase distance from subject to flash.

I asked about this when I bought the flash and was told that's "prehistoric" (yep he said that lol), that they use TTL (wireless) now, and apparently my old camera isn't TTL compatible. Is that true? The guy seemed pretty new, and wasn't too familiar with Canon.

Also try pointing it at the ceiling, and the wall next to or behind you. You may need to actually turn UP the power of the flash depending on the room your in.
Check out Ken's flash tricks. And lighting tips.

Again, can't turn it around with no cable. Good idea though. Any input on the cable? I think I see the cable I need with Google search... :confused:
 
You can Google the cables and diffusers as well. But read up on teqniques.
The more of the craft of photography I learned the less gear I bought.

You could easily point the flash strait up and use a little piece white paper to bounce it at the subject. Or tinfoil. Or buy a small diffuser.
 
You can Google the cables and diffusers as well. But read up on teqniques.
The more of the craft of photography I learned the less gear I bought.

You could easily point the flash strait up and use a little piece white paper to bounce it at the subject. Or tinfoil. Or buy a small diffuser.

No, I can't. It's not a movable flash. It only points one direction. It slides out about 1/2" further. That's the only physical adjustment.
 
I asked about this when I bought the flash and was told that's "prehistoric" (yep he said that lol), that they use TTL (wireless) now, and apparently my old camera isn't TTL compatible. Is that true? The guy seemed pretty new, and wasn't too familiar with Canon.



Again, can't turn it around with no cable. Good idea though. Any input on the cable? I think I see the cable I need with Google search... :confused:

I suggested a cable because it's cheap and you don't need to learn anything to use it. I use pocket wizard wireless transmitters but always carry long flash cables with me for backup. Since your flash is not adjustable using a cable will allow you to experiment with bounce flash as SFF has suggested. Let us see how your doing.
 
Go buy a clear frosted shower curtain and cut a piece out of it and put it over your flash. The frosted shower curtain is about the best light diffuser to produce soft light there is, and it's cheap.
 
I had a thought too. Check the metering mode on the camera. If it's set for too wide an area it'll average the area and try to light the whole room not just the area three feet in front. Also doupbe check the ttl settings if there are any on both flash and camera. It may no communicate correctly and is using too much power.
If the metering is correct and your shooting in full auto with the flash and it's still too bright. Look for the + - And lower it in the -


Also there's these.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/ENHANCE-...75035&wl11=online&wl12=35275101&wl13=&veh=sem

Look for photo food brand on Amazon and eBay.

But if the metering is off for some reason the pics will still be a bit off even w a diffuser.
 
Well guys, I took a trip to the local camera store, and the guy there was very helpful. He suggested not to buy a cable, and not to buy a diffuser. If I am remembering correctly, he suggested to decrease the f-stop to open the lens allowing more light in, then start at ISO200 (400 produces graininess on this camera), and adjust shutter speed. He said to try to use as low ISO as possible. He explained how all this affects the flash, the depth of the flash, the spread of the flash, and the strength of the flash, but I can't remember well enough to reiterate to you guys. Basically he said I don't need more equipment, I just need to fiddle more. Will do! :)
 
Well guys, I took a trip to the local camera store, and the guy there was very helpful. He suggested not to buy a cable, and not to buy a diffuser. If I am remembering correctly, he suggested to decrease the f-stop to open the lens allowing more light in, then start at ISO200 (400 produces graininess on this camera), and adjust shutter speed. He said to try to use as low ISO as possible. He explained how all this affects the flash, the depth of the flash, the spread of the flash, and the strength of the flash, but I can't remember well enough to reiterate to you guys. Basically he said I don't need more equipment, I just need to fiddle more. Will do! :)


It's cool you still have a local camera shop! I wish I did! Good luck, try some of the stuff the @saltyfilmfolks suggested... he's a professional photographer, he might know a trick or two.
 
It's cool you still have a local camera shop! I wish I did! Good luck, try some of the stuff the @saltyfilmfolks suggested... he's a professional photographer, he might know a trick or two.

Oh yes, as soon as I get a chance I'll try out his ideas AND the camera ship guy's ideas! I'll try them all! :D
 
The camera store guy is giving you good information on how to take a good photo with a flash, the gurus here are teaching you how to take a great photo with a flash.

I'm an amateur shutter bug and one of those guys that will do anything and everything to avoid using a flash. (I've never learned how to use them to take great photos). It's such an unnatural lighting technique. No one (or thing) is lit from frontal lighting unless your shining a flashlight in their (it's) face. Some guys know how to pull it off without you being able to tell a flash was used. (Separating the flash from the camera is a big part of that).

Exposure is a very understudied topic in photography these days because most cameras do it all for you. If you understand exposure then tweaking the camera (if you have one that allows you to) really makes life a whole lot easier. (Like not having to fix things in a post production program).
 
Well guys, I took a trip to the local camera store, and the guy there was very helpful. He suggested not to buy a cable, and not to buy a diffuser. If I am remembering correctly, he suggested to decrease the f-stop to open the lens allowing more light in, then start at ISO200 (400 produces graininess on this camera), and adjust shutter speed. He said to try to use as low ISO as possible. He explained how all this affects the flash, the depth of the flash, the spread of the flash, and the strength of the flash, but I can't remember well enough to reiterate to you guys. Basically he said I don't need more equipment, I just need to fiddle more. Will do! :)

I'm pretty surprised by this, I can't think of a single situation where placing the flash higher or further away wouldn't be more flattering to a subject unless I was shooting an old person and I wanted to flatten them out (not show as many wrinkles). Not to mention the hassle of flash reflection on the glass. I rarely use a flash when shooting my tank but I can shoot with a pretty high ISO without much noise. I have to admit I don't know about your particular camera, but I am a Canon guy. Your camera should be able to shoot TTL even through the cable although if it were me I'd shoot in manual, drop it down as low as it would go 1/16 or 1/32 if possible and set the flash to wide angle to spread the flash as wide as possible. The one thing I do agree with is keep fiddling with it. Your worst images will be the first 10k. (so I've read)
 

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