Bought this clownfish couple of days back, was clean then in LFS but now I see some white spots. It's in QT now and I am yet to start any treatment. Should I start the copper based medicine. How long is it needed to stay in QT. How many dosage is needed?
White spot or ich?
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Crabs McJones
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It looks like ich. 30 days of therapeutic copper. If at any time a new fish is introduced to your quarantine or the copper level falls out of the therapeutic range, the 30 day clock resets. They haven't been introduced to your display tank yet correct?
Crabs McJones
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From humblefishes guide
How To Treat - First, it is important to know what kind of copper you are using. Cupramine is fully charged (ionic) copper, and has a therapeutic range of 0.4-0.5 mg/L or ppm. You would use a Seachem or Salifert copper test kit for Cupramine, as those are capable of reading copper in the low range. Copper Power, on the other hand, is chelated copper. It has a much higher therapeutic range of 1.5-2.0 mg/L or ppm. As such, you need a “total copper test kit” such as API.
In addition to the aforementioned hobbyist grade test kits, the Hanna High Range Copper Colorimeter (HI702) is capable of reading all forms of copper. More info on that and other applicable copper test kits here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/copper-test-kits.257924/
Standard copper treatment lasts 30 consecutive days. The reason it takes so long is copper only targets the “free swimming stage” (the same holds true for all chemical treatments & hypo). While 7-14 days is the “norm” to reach this stage, certain strains of ich have a prolonged life cycle. Indeed, even 30 days may not be sufficient in some rare cases. This is why it is so important to observe after treatment ends, to ensure symptoms do not return.
A therapeutic level must be maintained at all times during the 30 days, so testing often is important. If the level drops even slightly out of range, then the 30 day clock restarts. One reason your copper level may drop unexpectedly is if you are treating in a tank with rock and substrate; these should be avoided with copper due to absorption. Conversely, if you exceed the therapeutic range you risk killing the fish.
Copper is a poison, pure and simple. It only works because most fish are able to withstand being in it longer than the parasites. Knowing this, it is wise to raise your copper level very slowly (over 5-7 days) instead of the usual 24-48 hour label directions. Doing so increases your odds of successfully treating a “copper sensitive” fish. The one exception to this rule is if Marine Velvet Disease is suspected. Due to it's fast killing nature you would want to raise the copper level to therapeutic within 24-48 hours when treating for velvet. Remove copper after 30 days by doing a large water change and using a Poly Filter, Cuprisorb, etc.
Pros - Readily available.
Cons/Side Effects - Appetite suppression and lethargy are both common side effects. If a fish stops eating completely, perform water changes (to lower the copper concentration) until he eats. If this happens a second time after you resume raising the copper, you’ll know you’ve encountered a “copper sensitive” fish and an alternative treatment should be used instead. (Note: Anytime you lower the copper level below therapeutic, the 30 day treatment clock begins anew once the copper is raised back up.)
To see which species copper should andshould not be used on, consult this chart: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-and-treatment-guidelines-with-chart.283450/
That looks like brook. The only treatment that works is formalin (and preventively in most cases, not when fish shows symptoms), and I strongly advise you not to expose yourself and your family to it. Clowns are usually dead in 3 days after first symptoms appear anyways.
4FordFamily
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I agree it could be brook — copper can slow brook down, however. If all the spot are gone that quickly that makes me think velvet, perhaps in addition. Those are small spots on a small clownfish (to scale) and it seems like they come and go quickly.
Identifying brook can be done here (of course this isn’t reliable but it leads me to believe it’s at least a factor) by noticing the small spots are toward the top half of the fish, this is a common presentation of brook on a clownfish. Also, knowing it’s a clownfish —brook is pretty common.
If I were you I’d be treating in copper and metroplex. Metro will kill brook, copper will kill ich and velvet. That’ll cover your bases.
To keep the fish alive during both meds, I’d add an air stone and powerhead breaking the surface. Test copper with the Hanna copper checker because too much is deadly and other testing kits leave a lot to be desired. You need to keep cupramine in a narrow band at .5-.55.
Identifying brook can be done here (of course this isn’t reliable but it leads me to believe it’s at least a factor) by noticing the small spots are toward the top half of the fish, this is a common presentation of brook on a clownfish. Also, knowing it’s a clownfish —brook is pretty common.
If I were you I’d be treating in copper and metroplex. Metro will kill brook, copper will kill ich and velvet. That’ll cover your bases.
To keep the fish alive during both meds, I’d add an air stone and powerhead breaking the surface. Test copper with the Hanna copper checker because too much is deadly and other testing kits leave a lot to be desired. You need to keep cupramine in a narrow band at .5-.55.
Metro will not kill brook. The only treatment that works against brook during early stages is prolonged Formalin bath, and even then survival is dismal. Unless you are a breeder working with rare species, it is not worth it to deal with Formalin exposure.
4FordFamily
Tang, Angel, and Wrasse Nerd!
I disagree. We've treated many fish for brook with Metroplex.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/brooklynella.247938/
Id stay far far away from anything with copper you'll have a rough time trying to get that out your system once it's introduced! I use a product called Greenex only found it on ebay eradicates ich in just a few days! Use it at half dose as what's recommended and for 3-5 days never seen it last longer then 3 days but do a 20% water change after its all gone you'll be fine but that definitely looks like ich! Good luck happy reefing
Poor guy died today, no white spots after the first dosage, thought the guy is getting better and will soon make it to the larger DT. It took feed this morning too but not sure what happened. I've stopped the dosage after 5 days and was doing only the regular water changes and kept him on observation.
