White spots on clown? (Video)

I'll tell you I did it before and I didn't lose a single coral. I had to remove all the corals, all of the rock and most of the water to get my fish out. All 7 went into a 40 breeder for the 76 day fallow period. Everyone got through it for the most part - i lost my helfrichi firefish to copper sensitivity. It's possible, and if done thoughtfully there's no reason to have coral loss or fish loss. Make sure you QT and DT match in salinity and temp so you can just catch and release into the QT.
 

It's a tough call. I wanna tell you go ahead and dose Prazipro before you leave, so at least the worm problem is being addressed. But you'd need to turn off your skimmer, stop running carbon, etc. Most of the time Prazi causes no ill effects when dosed in a DT, but every now & then there can be a problem. And you'd need to be there to run carbon/do a WC to pull the Prazi out.

Being you've only seen a few black spots on one fish and you did a FW dip to temporarily address it, I would hold off for now but have Prazipro ready to dose as soon as you get back.
 
Well managed to have some fun today with the family. Not trying to get off topic here tho. Thankfully I'll have a saltwater LFS that I'll pass by about an hour away from home on my way back where I can pickup some prazipro. Thinking about some QT options. Again I want to do this right for the health of my tank. I don't want to ask this question but I will. What would be your minimum tank size for a yellow tang QT? I have 2 clowns, 1 mandarin, Royal gramma, Firefish, Mccosker wrasse, 3 chromis, yellow Corris wrasse, yellow tang, dispar anthias, and a yellow head sleeper goby. I have an empty 55 gal. I think I can get a couple 5 or 10 gal tanks for cheap. I also have 2 spare heaters (just cheap ones that came with a 10 gal starter kit and 30 gal starter kit. 2 Extra air pump. 1 50gal rated Aqua clear HOB, 1 110gal rated Aqua clear and 3 aquarium stands. 2 of which could probably fit 2-3 10 gal tanks and 1 for the 55 gal. I've also got some old shop lights to just give the fish lighting.

Any thoughts on best setup? I want to treat all the fish and leave the DT just to my snails, cleaner shrimp and corals
 
I'd go with the 55 TBH. You might get away with a 40 breeder, but I wouldn't go with the 10 gallon tanks unless your planning on keeping up with several and splitting the fish between them. Then again, unless the yellow tang is tiny, I wouldn't put him in a 10 at all. Easier and more simple to just set up one QT to keep up with.
 
I'd go with the 55 TBH. You might get away with a 40 breeder, but I wouldn't go with the 10 gallon tanks unless your planning on keeping up with several and splitting the fish between them. Then again, unless the yellow tang is tiny, I wouldn't put him in a 10 at all. Easier and more simple to just set up one QT to keep up with.

+1 The mandarin will probably have to be traded back to a LFS though, unless it eats frozen/pellets.
 
Thanks again for the advice. I'll go with the 55 then. I was worried about stressing the fish in a smaller environment. I'll definitely keep a close watch.

As for the mandarin he does eat frozen and pellets. I was pretty fortunate for that and actually didn't really have to train him to do so. I watch him everyday eating whichever food I feed the tank.
 
As for the mandarin he does eat frozen and pellets. I was pretty fortunate for that and actually didn't really have to train him to do so. I watch him everyday eating whichever food I feed the tank.

You will need to feed him several times a day in QT and make sure he's not getting skinny. Mandys have very high metabolisms and need to eat frequently. You also cannot use copper on them. TTM or Chloroquine phosphate is the best way to treat a mandarin with ich.
 
I was reading your post about ich treatments and chloroquine phosphate seems like a very good option. Except I have those 2 wrasse and the write up said do not use with wrasse. With all my fish in the 55 gal what would be the best medication choice?
 
I was reading your post about ich treatments and chloroquine phosphate seems like a very good option. Except I have those 2 wrasse and the write up said do not use with wrasse. With all my fish in the 55 gal what would be the best medication choice?

The McCosker would probably be OK (flasher/fairy wrasses seem to do fine in CP), but the Yellow Coris probably wouldn't make it. :( Copper would be the backup plan, but your mandarin wouldn't last long in that. :(

I would use Coppersafe on all your fish, except you'll have to do TTM on the mandy: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/tank-transfer-method.192655/

Hyposalinity (osmotic shock) would treat everything (including black ich), but I don't really trust it to be effective: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I4/hyposalinity/OST.htm
 
Sounds like a good plan to me. I'll use copper on all the fish and TTM on the mandarin. At least that way I can ensure the mandarin can eat well enough sense the tank won't have pods in it.

Again. And I've said this in all of my posts I think. But I truly mean it..thanks for the help everyone
 
I had this on my clowns in the past. I noticed that it was getting stung by my mushrooms when lights where off
 
Ok so I'm about to get this whole thing setup. I feel bad about this QT not being cycled but I don't think it would be a good idea to wait for a cycle to be finished.

Does anyone have any good tips on catching fish besides removing all the rocks?
 
Thanks for the link to the DIY fish trap.

Pretty much got everything setup but i'm wondering what I should put in the tank for shelter for the fish?

all the fish seem to be doing well still in my DT..all active like normal and eating well. i'm nervous about this whole thing but I know it has to be done.
 
You'll want to use PVC elbows for hiding spaces. Put enough in so that everyone is able to claim a spot.
 

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