Who's in Control, Heater or Heater Controller

[Mrsirtang]

Hello All,

I recently had an Inkbird heater controller fail, that was only 3 months old. So, I contacted Inkbird support, and after a few e-mail exchanges with obvious trouble shooting steps, they sent a replacement in a timely manner. But my questions is, is it best to set the controller at the temperature that you would like to maintain, and set the heaters a few degrees higher ( I use Eheim heaters). Or, set the controller a few degrees higher, and set the heaters at the temperature that you would like to maintain?

 

[blaxsun]

Most seem to set the heaters @78.0°F and the Inkbird on @77.0°F and off @79.0°F.

 

[EricR]

Most tend to set the heaters a couple degrees higher and let the controller manage the temp.
I've done it both ways and could argue PROs for either method (to myself) but currently let the InkBird control the temp.
*Eheim heaters tend to be a pain to dial in for me so that's why I'm going with InkBird in control right now.

 

[workhz]

I do the latter and only use the InkBird as a fail safe. As in I set the controller a couple of degrees higher. I’m sure to be in the minority by a factor of 10-1.

 

[n2585722]

My Hydros controls my two heaters on separate outlets. The thermostat on the heaters are set 3 degrees higher. I have had no issues doing it that way. The Hydros outputs also have power monitoring. the heaters are 50 watts each and the safe power range is set between 45-55 watts. If for some reason it gets out of that range while the output is on it will send an alert with the current power reading.

 

[saltcats]

I let the heater be in charge and my inkbird as a failsafe. I read back when I was setting it up that it's better for the heater's internal thermostat to let it control itself, rather than forcibly powering it on and off frequently, which is why I decided to go that way. Although that could just be conjecture

My heater definitely keeps to a tighter range than the inkbird is capable of too, since it can only be programmed in 1 degree increments. I don't like for it to kill the heater at say, 78 degrees, and then have to wait for the tank to drop by itself to 77 before it will kick it back on just to drive the temp right back up to 78 and repeat the process... Heater keeps it pretty solid by itself and inkbird only kills it if the water is getting warm enough that I don't want the heater adding any more.

 

[EricR]

I've wondered about the hard ON/OFF power to heaters with thermostats (when controlled by InkBird or similar),,, but doing it anyway.

Aside -- different InkBird models have different minimum low/high temp variances. Just as examples:
ITC-306A allows 0.5 degree differential (Fahrenheit)
ITC-306T has minimum 1 degree diff, like you mentioned

 

[saltcats]

Aside -- different InkBird models have different minimum low/high temp variances. Just as examples:
ITC-306A allows 0.5 degree differential (Fahrenheit)
ITC-306T has minimum 1 degree diff, like you mentioned

Nothing that connects to wifi unless it absolutely has to, in my house!

 

[YOYOYOReefer]

If i had unlimited cash would just keep the whole room at 77 degrees... but for now trying one of those helios heaters .. had issues with the first one they replaced and second heaters been working for several months now , no issues,,, but way too expensive IMO.

my really old ebu jagers still work , run those off of ranco controllers.

 

[homer1475]

Finnex titanium heating rod(no internal thermostat) controlled by a Ranco(hate inkbirds, had to many issue with them over the years), which is then backed up by an apex.

 

[TheBear78]

As well as the obvious temperature control that inkbird's etc. allow they also have alarms to warn of excessive heating times. If the sensors are placed correctly and the alarm time set accordingly then this can act as a warning of pump failure. This as well as over and under temperature conditions can be communicated remotely from anywhere in the world...
To me, having the controller as a back up to the thermostat in the heater is a complete waste of additional functionality which I find genuinely useful.
FWIW, mine is adjustable in 0.1 degree (C) increments.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I let the heater be in charge and my inkbird as a failsafe. I read back when I was setting it up that it's better for the heater's internal thermostat to let it control itself, rather than forcibly powering it on and off frequently, which is why I decided to go that way. Although that could just be conjecture

My heater definitely keeps to a tighter range than the inkbird is capable of too, since it can only be programmed in 1 degree increments. I don't like for it to kill the heater at say, 78 degrees, and then have to wait for the tank to drop by itself to 77 before it will kick it back on just to drive the temp right back up to 78 and repeat the process... Heater keeps it pretty solid by itself and inkbird only kills it if the water is getting warm enough that I don't want the heater adding any more.

If you change it to Celsius, you can program in smaller increments...

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I've wondered about the hard ON/OFF power to heaters with thermostats (when controlled by InkBird or similar),,, but doing it anyway.

Aside -- different InkBird models have different minimum low/high temp variances. Just as examples:
ITC-306A allows 0.5 degree differential (Fahrenheit)
ITC-306T has minimum 1 degree diff, like you mentioned

Again, changing the unit of measurement from Fahrenheit to Celsius lets you control the temperature better...

 

[FSP]

Controller first, heater a bit higher in case a meteorite hits the controller. I hate heaters and want them to have as little responsibility as possible, but I like Rancos and 99.9% trust that they will do their job They aren't always the most accurate (and you can't calibrate them afaik), but they are very precise ime.

 

[EHaddad]

If i had unlimited cash would just keep the whole room at 77 degrees... but for now trying one of those helios heaters .. had issues with the first one they replaced and second heaters been working for several months now , no issues,,, but way too expensive IMO.

my really old ebu jagers still work , run those off of ranco controllers.

What was your issues with the first one?

 

[dianerivera]

I do the latter and only use the InkBird as a fail safe. As in I set the controller a couple of degrees higher. I’m sure to be in the minority by a factor of 10-1.

Can you advise me how. I want my heater on 78, does that mean put the inkbird at 80. What about the difference value?

 

[workhz]

Can you advise me how. I want my heater on 78, does that mean put the inkbird at 80. What about the difference value?

If you want it as a fail safe backup then yes, set heater to keep a 78 degree temp (which is unlikely to correlate to the heater dial because they’re always off ). I think I currently have the InkBird to stop at 81.5 and alarm at 80 or something like that.

The vast majority do it the opposite way so I’m not advocating for my way, just the way I do it. The others are probably right and I’m missing something but I still don’t see it.

 

[TheBear78]

Can you advise me how. I want my heater on 78, does that mean put the inkbird at 80. What about the difference value?

On my inkbird the minimum difference between the T1 and T2 setting is 0.3 degrees C. As long as the higher of the two (doesn't matter which way round they are) is set to the back up, cut off temperature it should work. In your case setting the heater(s) to 78 and the controller to 80 would work.
The lower of the two numbers determines when power is reapplied after the Controller has cut power due to the higher temperature having been reached. To that end, the temperature will drop to this figure before it is reapplied so it should be set no lower than your minimum operating temperature.
Example;
Heater 78
Controller 77 - 80.

 

[JoJosReef]

I have a new Helio and an inkbird + Finnex. Plan to use the helio at 77F. If the heater fails and temp falls, inkbird will kick in at 75F with the Finnex. Rather come in to a tank at 75F than 60F.

On the other hand, if the Helio malfunctions and starts heating nonstop... Still working on that one...

 

[jjencek]

This is about using APEX to control the heaters. I think it was one of the BRS videos (older one) that suggested not to do so. It could had been a coincidence, but frequent swithing caused a failure in one of the power switches.

So I use two heaters, which are not powerful enough to heat up my tank. They have to work in tandem to heat it up. If one fails in the ON position, the other one turns off and the stuck one cannot overheat it. I then use my APEX as a safety control.