Why am I burning through DI Resin?

I picked up the supplies to make the degassing column. I'm going to try and work on it this afternoon and do a write-up on here too. I need to dig around to find my airpump. I had one, but I've moved three times since I last used it so who the heck knows where it is at this point. I'm not worried about the air pump cost, I don't want to pay for a water pump to move the water from my basement to my first floor. That was being handled by the booster pump.

That avast pump (or one like it) would be perfect! Then I don't have to redo any plumbing and I can pull from the tank in the basement.
 
I think I have my pump solution...
http://amzn.com/B00DLKT4OO

$21 and it has a built in pressure shut off. I can hook this into the line that currently comes from the basement and up to my tank, plug it in and just use the valve at the tank to activate it.
 
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Just circling back to report on my progress...

I built the degassing chamber and posted a quick DIY (https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/diy-co2-degassing-chamber-for-ro-di.212587/)

I've run about 10 gallons through the system now and I can confirm I am not burning through DI resin anymore. Woo hoo! I did discover that gravity feeding the DI chambers doesn't quite keep up with the RO output rate so I'll have to mess with that to prevent a (another) flood. Thanks for the advice all!
 
Thanks to everyone for the good info here. It's helped me diagnose some other issues, but this is the one I'm having now.

I have a BRS 75gpd 6 stage Reef & Drinking water RODI unit and even though my TDS is ALWAYS zero, my DI color changing resin and 5 micron sediment filter is exhausted after a rate of every 2 months. Typically, I'm assuming under "Optimal" conditions, those two filters should last much longer.

After researching what causes the DI Resin and sediment filters to delete more quickly, I realized that I'll end up having to change the filters more often because I have hard water from a well. I am running a water softener, so that helps, but I also realized BRS recommends all their RODI units have a minimum of 50 psi for maximum filter efficiency. My RODI unit's pressure gauge was reading approximately 30 - 35 psi. I thought this was odd because I never would have thought the house's water pressure would be considered low at all. After checking the pressure gauge on the well pump, it was set at 40/60.
Next, I took a pressure reading from the reservoir tank and it had a psi of about 20 psi, which is the first thing I rectified. The reservoir tank should be approximately 2 - 4 psi under the "cut in" range, which would put it at about 36 - 38 psi, do i then knew the reservoir needed pressure added. I increased the well pump's pressure switch to "55/75" and added pressure to the reservoir of about 51 psi. Btw, the reservoir it's rated for up to 100 psi, do i knew I had a ways to go before I exceeded the rating.

So, now I thought I should be got to go because at least I was at the minimal psi amount. Ya, not so much lol. My RODI pressure gauge increased, however, it's still reading at about 40 - 45 psi. I'm not sure if I should increase the water pressure on the well pump and add pressure to reservoir again, just get a booster pump for the RODI, or just live with it and change the DI Resin and sediment filter every couple months?

I am planning on aging the "Water Saver Plus" upgrade to my RODI unit soon, I'm not sure if that will make a difference with my current issue though.

I'm certain that there's not a problem with the well pump, reservoir tank, or pressure switch because they are all new and I had them inspected by a relative who is a licensed plumber. I think the fact that I have hard water might be causing a mineral build up somewhere in the water lines, thus decreasing my pressure, but I'm not certain. Even after increasing the water pressure, I'm still going through filters at the same rate. I can live with this of I have to, but I'd prefer to spend that extra filter money on Reef livestock and gadgets!

Any advice is appreciated, thank you!
 
Timely article for me. I just ordered a new 150gpd unit to replace my old one. Bought a tds meter so I can keep track of the output now. I have a well that my water comes from but in all honesty I don't believe it has a co2 issue and the reason I say that is I don't have a pump down in my well. I have an air compressor that pumps air to the bottom of the well lifting water as the air rises. That's almost two hundred feet of being aerated before it reaches a 500 gallon holding tank. I raised my well pressure pump to 45/55psi which makes my well service cringe. They like the pressure to top out around 45psi so be careful raising the pressure you might end up blowing pipes apart or causing valves to fail early. I noticed no one mentioned where the air is coming from that is used to replace the co2. Tank ph has been a frequent topic on this forum suggesting outside air be used to feed the skimmer to lower ph. Might be something to consider if constructing a device to remove co2 from the ro water.
 
Well, I'm still burning through my DI resin even with my degassing setup. I'm going to try aerating for a longer period of time and see if that improves things....
 
More pressure the better for a RO/DI. I wouldn't run a RO/DI with less than 60 psi, I run my Spectrapure Max Cap around 100 psi. By running more pressure you decrease the TDS of the "good" water and increase production. I get 160 gpd from a 90 gpd membrane

Plumb a booster pump between the carbon filter and the membrane, by plumbing after the carbon filter the sediment and carbon filters will protect the booster pump from particles that could damage the booster pump

I suggest the Aquatec 8800 booster pump
https://spectrapure.com/manuals/BOOSTER-PUMPS.pdf
 
I already have a booster pump on my system. The 75gpd membrane I run (Filmtech) is rated for 99% rejection at 50psi. I get 98.5% rejection at 50psi. That 0.5% isn't what's depleting my resin so quickly, but thank you for the rejection.

I'm not looking for increased production rate, so I'm fine at a lower pressure.
 
Well, I'm still burning through my DI resin even with my degassing setup. I'm going to try aerating for a longer period of time and see if that improves things....

Have you tried measuring pH in the degassed water to see how it was being impacted?
 
I have not. I will give it a shot. It was too low for my test kit straight from the tap. I'll try later and see where it is.
 
Right you are :). I suppose that's a cheap way to see how much CO2 I'm actually burning off albeit very inaccurately :)
 
I have a 5 stage RO/DI 110 gpd from bulk reef. I run a booster pump at 80 psi my TDS ls 5-7 coming into my DI cartridge. I have well water. I'm wondering if it's something wrong with your RO membrane. Just my opinion.
 
I have a 5 stage RO/DI 110 gpd from bulk reef. I run a booster pump at 80 psi my TDS ls 5-7 coming into my DI cartridge. I have well water. I'm wondering if it's something wrong with your RO membrane. Just my opinion.
The membrane isn't the issue. I get between 98-99% rejection. My outgoing TDS is usually 0-2PPM.

Membranes do not filter out CO2 in the water.
Indeed it does not. That's why I'm degassing. In trying to determine if my degassing chamber is working.

On that note, the pH from the tap and out of the chamber are both too low for my test kit to read.
 
My comment was in response to post #53.

What type of airstone do you have on the air pump and are you using ridgid airline tube so it stays near the bottom of the column for greatest conact time. I would use a limestone or good quality glass bead type airstone for the best fine bubbles.
 
.. stange with I have 2-3 TDS out of my RO into my DI for almost 8 months and its still going like a champ..
 
My comment was in response to post #53.

What type of airstone do you have on the air pump and are you using ridgid airline tube so it stays near the bottom of the column for greatest conact time. I would use a limestone or good quality glass bead type airstone for the best fine bubbles.
The original stone I had in there was pretty crummy. I bought some more and they work much better but I couldn't tell you what they are made of. I also bought a larger air pump. Can you point to a good air stone?

Did you ever add the softener????
Not yet, no. Waiting for bonus time since I need a pH neutralizer too.

.. stange with I have 2-3 TDS out of my RO into my DI for almost 8 months and its still going like a champ..
Yeah, the theory we are working towards is high CO2 content in my well water, not TDS.
 
................ I noticed no one mentioned where the air is coming from that is used to replace the co2. Tank ph has been a frequent topic on this forum suggesting outside air be used to feed the skimmer to lower ph. Might be something to consider if constructing a device to remove co2 from the ro water.

I bring in outside air to run my skimmer, but I did it to insure less CO2 was entering water column. I didn't think a lower ph was part of the bargain.
 

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