Why are my torches retracted?

Derrick0580

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 6, 2022
Messages
1,759
Reaction score
1,961
Location
Lafayette Indiana
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Here are my last two testing results. I generally test a few days after a water change. For the life of me I can’t figure out why my torches are only extended maybe 3/4 inch and what zoas are in the same tank have been closed up for a few weeks. What zoas I could remove I placed into my frag tank which is on the same system and they opened back up so I assume it’s in no way related to the parameters. I have made sure they are getting proper flow, not getting whipped around too much. The hammers and frogspawn on the opposite end of the tank look great. I was going to break out the apogee today but wasn’t home during peak hours so it will have to wait till tomorrow. The torches are circled in red and the area with the zoas is circled in yellow.

76E07E06-280C-4A11-9A0D-145B288AC030.jpeg 3E6A27D3-9060-4571-AB97-274AC24012CA.jpeg
 
 
not an expert but here's what I think is wrong with the parameter
1. ph needs to be higher like 8.2
2. temp rose a lot from the previous test and should be more stable.

the flow looks alright and the light should be fine.
is other coral disturbing the torch?
Is chemical warfare happening between the corals? (if then need activated carbon)

when were the torches added?
 
Last edited:
I agree with the above. They need 200 to 250 par and varied moderate flow.
 
not an expert but here's what I think is wrong with the parameter
1. ph needs to be higher like 8.2
2. temp rose a lot from the previous test and should be more stable.

the flow looks alright and the light should be fine.
is other coral disturbing the torch?
Is chemical warfare happening between the corals? (if then need activated carbon)

when were the torches added?
Ph has always been a struggle, this is the normal for my tank unless I can open the windows which isn’t often here in Indiana! The torches were retracted before I bumped up the temp on my inkbird. They are a decent distance from other corals. They were out and flowy then suddenly started looking like this. Although I haven’t seen it messing with them, I moved my aiptasia file fish to the sump tonight.
 
Are you dosing to get your cal and mag numbers that high? If not I would double check your salinity.
 
How long have you had the torches? Seems like they're just a bit annoyed, but may not be a big cause for concern. Those alk, mag and calc numbers are super high imo, but seem fine for reef crystals.

That said, torches are finicky. I've had two melt on me in the past few months with others next to them perfectly fine.
 
Nothing wrong with any of your parameters or nutrients. Sometimes these things just happen. Could be potential placement issue. Deep water vs regular torch. Flow generally isn't an issue unless it's too little. You can always try to rejuvenate the torch in an antibiotic dip. I have flow on mine so great that they about get ripped out of their spot. Lol also sometimes they do this while they are splitting. I cannot tell what kind of torch it is either .
 
Here are my last two testing results. I generally test a few days after a water change. For the life of me I can’t figure out why my torches are only extended maybe 3/4 inch and what zoas are in the same tank have been closed up for a few weeks. What zoas I could remove I placed into my frag tank which is on the same system and they opened back up so I assume it’s in no way related to the parameters. I have made sure they are getting proper flow, not getting whipped around too much. The hammers and frogspawn on the opposite end of the tank look great. I was going to break out the apogee today but wasn’t home during peak hours so it will have to wait till tomorrow. The torches are circled in red and the area with the zoas is circled in yellow.

76E07E06-280C-4A11-9A0D-145B288AC030.jpeg 3E6A27D3-9060-4571-AB97-274AC24012CA.jpeg
Oh yeah the alk does look high. I run about 8.2 to 9 LPS mostly lots of high end torches. I use Red Sea blue bucket and my torches are anywhere from 180 par to 450 par. Just depends on thr species
 
Broke out the TM hydrometer just to double check the refractometer, shows it between 1.025 and 1.026
 

Attachments

  • 493850EA-B7B7-4BCA-9076-CB2B62E274DE.jpeg
    493850EA-B7B7-4BCA-9076-CB2B62E274DE.jpeg
    116.5 KB · Views: 21
Nothing wrong with any of your parameters or nutrients. Sometimes these things just happen. Could be potential placement issue. Deep water vs regular torch. Flow generally isn't an issue unless it's too little. You can always try to rejuvenate the torch in an antibiotic dip. I have flow on mine so great that they about get ripped out of their spot. Lol also sometimes they do this while they are splitting. I cannot tell what kind of torch it is either .
Skittles and indo gold finger, what do you suggest as a dip? I have brightwell lugols and frag recover, and seachem reef dip
 
Skittles and indo gold finger
I can't remember what folks add to the reefcrystals to drop the alk, but that may be something to look into. I lost alot of Euphyllia once when my alk started to creep up that high.

That being said I have one that only opens up after my lights dim down for the day. I assume it's a deep water . It was unnamed but looks like a banana torch.
 
I also cut back on the kalk dosing to bring it down. Tried slowly bringing it up to boost ph but doesn’t seem to be helping. Think I will just shut off versa until alk gets back down to around 9. Last time I calculated alk consumption it was at .1 a day so may take a couple weeks to get between 8.5-9
 
I also cut back on the kalk dosing to bring it down. Tried slowly bringing it up to boost ph but doesn’t seem to be helping.
Most of your PH comes from Photosynthesis. But there are some things you can do. Adding air line to skimmer intake that draws in outside air. CO2 scrubbing and or pumping air in from external air pump that's in another room or outside.
 
Most of your PH comes from Photosynthesis. But there are some things you can do. Adding air line to skimmer intake that draws in outside air. CO2 scrubbing and or pumping air in from external air pump that's in another room or outside.
Tried all of that, no dice. Right now it’s on a recirculating co2 scrubber. I even attempted pulling outside air through the scrubber. Best luck I have had is with windows open but even then it’s not like I can do that year round.
 
Tried all of that, no dice. Right now it’s on a recirculating co2 scrubber. I even attempted pulling outside air through the scrubber. Best luck I have had is with windows open but even then it’s not like I can do that year round.
I hear ya I'm in Indiana. What's your light cycle hours? Ans do you run whites at all?
 
do any of your fish/CUC touch it constantly?
two of my toches started receding/ had messed up sweepers and after watching the tank for a while I realized that the culprit was actually my clownfish. He was since been removed. Hopefully my other clwonfish leaves them alone and lets the torch recover nicely.
 
I hear ya I'm in Indiana. What's your light cycle hours? Ans do you run whites at all?
Lafayette Indiana myself! I have 3 xr15 g5 blues over the tank which is a 48” 120. I basically run the ab+ with all red and green removed and whites only at 10%
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top