Why do Acropora turn green?

[Neuratox]

Why are my acropora losing some of their colors and becoming a more intense green? I'm seeing this with my Vivid Aquariums strawberry shortcake, BC Aquatic-Man, and RR pink cadillac to name a few. They're all at a PAR that fluctuates between 275 and 350 throughout the day. I've seen a few answers to this question, but they seem to go back and forth between too much and too little light.

My parameters are:
Nitrate 10ppm, Phos 0.05ppm (slowly bringing this down; aiming for 0.03), Alk ~9dKH, Ca2+ ~450ppm, pH 8.0, salinity 0.026, temp 79.5.
I know the temp is a little on the high side, but I've really struggled to keep it down. I figure better to be consistent than to have it fluctuating, so its been like this for as long as its been established.

I know that the quality isn't the greatest, but here is what I'm talking about.

What is causing them to loose other colors in favor of green?
Thanks for any help.

 

[spsick]

Your parameters are fine. I think low light, poor spectrum, and high iron/iodine all cause this.

I wouldn’t get too bent out of shape over it, those are all primarily green acros anyways.

 

[Neuratox]

That's right. I remember reading that this could be due to primarily running blues. Any truth to that? I have been wanting to do an ICP. Perhaps its time to do that.

 

[Fishyfish22]

Test your iron levels

 

[Lavey29]

Your parameters are fine. I think low light, poor spectrum, and high iron/iodine all cause this.

I wouldn’t get too bent out of shape over it, those are all primarily green acros anyways.

I thought is was strictly insufficient light did not know iron caused this also.

 

[Steve and his Animals]

I've noticed acros in my tank tend to lean towards green/brownish if the light is very white/high in red, maybe there's something to that.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Lighting is my suspect as these corals need white lighting to create and feed its algaes known as zooxanthellae which gives corals their color and energy

 

[Neuratox]

I've noticed acros in my tank tend to lean towards green/brownish if the light is very white/high in red, maybe there's something to that.

In my case I've got very little white, red, or green.

 

[Nburg's Reef]

Sometimes they turn ugly before they color up depending on how long you have had them. Some never color back up except for the new growth.

 

[Neuratox]

Lighting is my suspect as these corals need white lighting to create and feed its algaes known as zooxanthellae which gives corals their color and energy

My tank is just recovering from a dino outbreak. I beat it! *Cheers* Once I'm convinced that everything is nice and stable I'll start making some adjustments to the lighting that I'll apply over a 30 day period of time. I'll see if I can get an iron test kit before I do that so I know if its up.

 

[spsick]

What are we working with for lights? It looks plenty white in the photo.

When I say poor spectrum yeah like if you only have royals leds or have your spectrums messed with too much of it’s an led fixture.

 

[Steve and his Animals]

In my case I've got very little white, red, or green.

Lighting is my suspect as these corals need white lighting to create and feed its algaes known as zooxanthellae which gives corals their color and energy

Now he's saying it's not enough white, so I have no idea then lol

 

[Neuratox]

I run hybrid lighting. I have 3 blue plus ATI and 1 true actinic on the T5s. As for LEDs I have 2 Hydra 32s and 2 prime 16s. The hydras are positioned to spread across the tank and the primes are used more as spotlights to hit the areas of acros with a little extra light. Sandbed has about 150 par while the areas with acros have 275 on the low end.

The first spectrum is for the hydras and the second is for the primes.

Certainly seems like I need to add white based on everyone's comments.

 

[J1a]

Imo don't worry about sps turning green. It's in fact a good sign.

The green color comes from green fluorescent proteins (GFP). Given time, and suitable environment, these can mature into other colored fluorescent proteins.

The green color which you see suggest that your corals are producing GFPs. So I would just let them be.

 

[Neuratox]

Imo don't worry about sps turning green. It's in fact a good sign.

The green color comes from green fluorescent proteins (GFP). Given time, and suitable environment, these can mature into other colored fluorescent proteins.

The green color which you see suggest that your corals are producing GFPs. So I would just let them be.

You have a beautiful tank clearly full of acropora, thus I'm certainly inclined to follow your advice. I'll sit on my hands for a while and just see how things go. Thanks!

 

[BroccoliFarmer]

Why are my acropora losing some of their colors and becoming a more intense green? I'm seeing this with my Vivid Aquariums strawberry shortcake, BC Aquatic-Man, and RR pink cadillac to name a few. They're all at a PAR that fluctuates between 275 and 350 throughout the day. I've seen a few answers to this question, but they seem to go back and forth between too much and too little light.

My parameters are:
Nitrate 10ppm, Phos 0.05ppm (slowly bringing this down; aiming for 0.03), Alk ~9dKH, Ca2+ ~450ppm, pH 8.0, salinity 0.026, temp 79.5.
I know the temp is a little on the high side, but I've really struggled to keep it down. I figure better to be consistent than to have it fluctuating, so its been like this for as long as its been established.

I know that the quality isn't the greatest, but here is what I'm talking about.

What is causing them to loose other colors in favor of green?
Thanks for any help.

Think of coral coloration like humans getting a tan. When not enough light, humans lose their tans. When a lot of light we start tanning to repell the uv light. Corals kinda doing same thing. To keep their color, they need to have just enough light to cause the tan but not enough for a sun burn.

 

[spsick]

I run hybrid lighting. I have 3 blue plus ATI and 1 true actinic on the T5s. As for LEDs I have 2 Hydra 32s and 2 prime 16s. The hydras are positioned to spread across the tank and the primes are used more as spotlights to hit the areas of acros with a little extra light. Sandbed has about 150 par while the areas with acros have 275 on the low end.

The first spectrum is for the hydras and the second is for the primes.

Certainly seems like I need to add white based on everyone's comments.

Oh gosh you’re 100% fine then that light setup is IDEAL to me.

Blue Plus is a full spectrum bulb by itself capable of growing colorful healthy coral (look at RRC) plus the Hydra is a quality light and your spectrum isn’t super out of whack or anything.

I missed the just got over Dinos part. Let it ride they will come around. If an acro has healthy tissue and is encrusting you’re there. The rest will come.

 

[Rick5]

I'd be more concerned about the earlier dino infestation and (what looks like) dry rock, coupled with your wanting to drop your phosphate (and existing parameters).

I would add some cured live rock to your tank or get some Garf Grunge and/or freshly collected mud. There's an interesting thread (involving the use of fresh mud) somewhere on here by @AquaBiomics , I believe.

 

[ScottB]

I'd be more concerned about the earlier dino infestation and (what looks like) dry rock, coupled with your wanting to drop your phosphate (and existing parameters).

I would add some cured live rock to your tank or get some Garf Grunge and/or freshly collected mud. There's an interesting thread (involving the use of fresh mud) somewhere on here by @AquaBiomics , I believe.

OMG I am on the same wavelength as @Rick5 AGAIN.

The rock, shall we say, does not look well aged. How old is this system? Dead or live rock start?

Ur numbers are fine, just keep doing what ur doing. PO4 up to .1 is just fine as are nitrates at 10 and the rest. The biome just looks a tad young to me & Rick.

 

[Rick5]

OMG I am on the same wavelength as @Rick5 AGAIN.

The rock, shall we say, does not look well aged. How old is this system? Dead or live rock start?

Ur numbers are fine, just keep doing what ur doing. PO4 up to .1 is just fine as are nitrates at 10 and the rest. The biome just looks a tad young to me & Rick.

I keep telling you to never say “never”