Why is my SPS dying off??

So go with a hanna checker for phosphates? and what should I target? Will running my skimmer remove phosphates or just nitrates?
Skimmers remove neither phosphates nor nitrates. It only removes organic matter and may remove phosphates that are attached to bacteria, but it won’t be very noticeable.

Skimmers prevent new nitrate and phosphate molecules.
 
Skimmers remove neither phosphates nor nitrates. It only removes organic matter and may remove phosphates that are attached to bacteria, but it won’t be very noticeable.

Skimmers prevent new nitrate and phosphate molecules.
Gotcha I am going to bump up my lights a bit. My water looks a bit cloudy so I might run the skimmer again.
 
Gotcha I am going to bump up my lights a bit. My water looks a bit cloudy so I might run the skimmer again.
Yes, bump lights, but as you said, slowly. :)
 
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SPS looks OK, but now I have this green slime algae all over my rocks....

Started to run my skimmer because my water looks very cloudy and there is the oil slick on the top of the tank, also turned off my UV sterilizer
 
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SPS is still getting eaten away…..tried bumping up phosphates but haven’t seen any improvements yet. Water is still cloudy, could it be a flow issue???
 
I second the feeding of reef roids daily I did this and in a week phosphate levels came up algae went away feed more get it up
 
I bought the hanna ULR Phosphate test and I keep getting a .90 (out of range) reading...
So, the sample + reagent turns blue, right? Gotta be a solid blue. If it is blue then you realyy do have a lot of phosphate in the system and that Salifert test was really bad. Or you really overdosed with the PO4 (which is rare honestly).

If the reagent sample was NOT blue, there is some kind of problem with the Checker.
 
Slow down filtration and feed fish a lot of food with phosphates if feed once a day feed 2 times now tank is evolving needs more shouldn't have to dose just feed more
what fish food is high in phosphate? thanks
 
Nutrients for sure! Started getting low nutrients with dry rock in a max nano 20 gallon Sps dominant. I auto dosed 8 ml nitrate and 2 ml phosphate till my numbers came up. Once settled, I backed off to half of each and my Sps resumed growth and polyp extension.
 
Nutrients for sure! Started getting low nutrients with dry rock in a max nano 20 gallon Sps dominant. I auto dosed 8 ml nitrate and 2 ml phosphate till my numbers came up. Once settled, I backed off to half of each and my Sps resumed growth and polyp extension.
What nitrate and phosphate products are you using? Thanks
 
What nitrate and phosphate products are you using? Thanks
No problem! I use brightwell Neo nitro and Neo phos. They both do a great job! if you have a dosing pump you can program, it will make it easier to make small doses over 24 hours for stability. Make slow adjustments, follow the bottle instructions and you will be fine.

Swings with alk or nutrients is no bueno:)
 
So, the sample + reagent turns blue, right? Gotta be a solid blue. If it is blue then you realyy do have a lot of phosphate in the system and that Salifert test was really bad. Or you really overdosed with the PO4 (which is rare honestly).

If the reagent sample was NOT blue, there is some kind of problem with the Checker.
Yup it turned blue, I think i reallllly overdosed on phosphate. Here is the salifert test I ran yesterday, I did a water change to see if I can get some phosphate out….
 

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You will find that water changes are frustratingly ineffective at lowering phosphates. Unlike nitrate, that only exists in the water column, phosphates will bind to calcium based surfaces in your tank. Rock and sand, etc. As the phosphate level rises and falls in the water column, the bound phosphate will unbind or bind more to keep the water column level in equilibrium with the level bound to your surfaces. So your rock and sand become a reservoir of phosphate.

To lower it, you will need to use a phosphate binder like GFO, aluminum oxide, or Lanthanum Chloride. The former 2 being much easier to use than the latter. Running an algae based reactor like an ATS and supplementing everything but phosphate can also help to use up the excess.
 
Yup it turned blue, I think i reallllly overdosed on phosphate. Here is the salifert test I ran yesterday, I did a water change to see if I can get some phosphate out….
I like Salifert test kits generally, but not for phosphates. Hanna ULR is tedious to use, but much more consistent and accurate. Just FYI.
 
Yup it turned blue, I think i reallllly overdosed on phosphate. Here is the salifert test I ran yesterday, I did a water change to see if I can get some phosphate out….
You're getting a lot of advice here so I'd suggest just slowing everything down a bit. You need to confirm that super high hanna checker reading. Make sure you are following the steps right as well. Judging by that Salifert test kit you are still near .1. When ScottB asked about the blue tint, he is referencing the Hanna vial after mixing for 2 minutes, stating this because you showed Salifert which is also blue.

You're probably thinking the Salifert is wrong because it didn't register anything before but I think under .1 phosphate level and it's really hard to tell on that kit with how light the color will be. Kind of on the outside of it's range IMO due to that.

Here are some tips I found useful for my hanna:
- Use the same vial per test aka *Don't fill both, use one to calibrate while you mix in the other.
- Have your packet cut and ready
- Turn you checker on with the top closed
- Fill your vial to the 10ml mark.
- *Important part I think is overlooked - Dry vial. Then use a soft shirt of soft cloth and make sure there are no smudges or streaking, finger prints. After you clean the vial, handle it by lid and place in checker
- Close lid and press button
- C2 pull vial and remove lid. Think of that packet as a milk container, open it so you are pouring out the corner radius on the cut line. This makes it so much more accurate for pouring and tapping to get all reagent.
-Mix just like the picture shows for a timed two minutes. Not shaking it but inverting it over and over.
-*Important, polish the vial with a clean soft cloth again to ensure there are no finger prints or smudges.
-Times up place back in checker and hold the button until the 3:00 timer displays on the checker. I set a timer since I'm usually testing the rest of my parameters and have gotten distracted and missed the reading before. Goes blank after 2 minute mark and you're doing it over.

I keep a dedicated spray bottle marked "RO/DI". I use this to spray out vials after testing and to clean my aquarium glass. Works better than Windex without the worry.

Personally I'd keep the UV on. I'd keep the skimmer on regardless of nutrients. If anything shut it down for a few hours at your peak light period in the tank. The aeration and ph help the health of your coral, specially throughout the night.

It looks like you are dealing with cyano bacteria to me - it looks red and I see no stringing bubbles. I also see some other nuisance algae in there. You've been messing with your nutrients quite a bit chasing your sps issue, that probably caused an imbalance of some kind. I suggest addressing the problem with adding some different types of bacteria to attempt to balance out your issue. Also go the route of water changes and siphoning whatever you can out, manually removing any GHA/turf algae from your rocks. Make sure your parameters match for the WC. I will even match nutrients on the new water if I don't want them lowered. It's gonna take time regardless.
I'm just coming out of a similar spiral that went-
Cyano>Treated chemiclean >Allowed bryopsis to rear it ugly head> Flux HD> killed off all competition>Dinoflagellates and stripping of nutrients. I've been adding nutrients and trying to restore my biodiversity in the tank now and running UV. It's starting to come around now. I wish I just addressed the biodiversity issue in the first place for cyano.
A fellow reefer turned me onto PNS Probio and substrate sauce. I really like that product and feel it helped my tank a lot recently. Bacteria that don't seem to pull down my nutrients when dosed. Really helped knock back the dinos too.

If you confirm your readings are actually that high on phosphate then you do need to take action. Just make sure first. If it's a false reading and you react you will just be creating another major swing that will lead to more stress on the sps. If you find it's not correct then move forward slowly and naturally as possible. I'm not a fan of GFO or phosphate strippers, I just never have luck with them.
 
You're getting a lot of advice here so I'd suggest just slowing everything down a bit. You need to confirm that super high hanna checker reading. Make sure you are following the steps right as well. Judging by that Salifert test kit you are still near .1. When ScottB asked about the blue tint, he is referencing the Hanna vial after mixing for 2 minutes, stating this because you showed Salifert which is also blue.

You're probably thinking the Salifert is wrong because it didn't register anything before but I think under .1 phosphate level and it's really hard to tell on that kit with how light the color will be. Kind of on the outside of it's range IMO due to that.

Here are some tips I found useful for my hanna:
- Use the same vial per test aka *Don't fill both, use one to calibrate while you mix in the other.
- Have your packet cut and ready
- Turn you checker on with the top closed
- Fill your vial to the 10ml mark.
- *Important part I think is overlooked - Dry vial. Then use a soft shirt of soft cloth and make sure there are no smudges or streaking, finger prints. After you clean the vial, handle it by lid and place in checker
- Close lid and press button
- C2 pull vial and remove lid. Think of that packet as a milk container, open it so you are pouring out the corner radius on the cut line. This makes it so much more accurate for pouring and tapping to get all reagent.
-Mix just like the picture shows for a timed two minutes. Not shaking it but inverting it over and over.
-*Important, polish the vial with a clean soft cloth again to ensure there are no finger prints or smudges.
-Times up place back in checker and hold the button until the 3:00 timer displays on the checker. I set a timer since I'm usually testing the rest of my parameters and have gotten distracted and missed the reading before. Goes blank after 2 minute mark and you're doing it over.

I keep a dedicated spray bottle marked "RO/DI". I use this to spray out vials after testing and to clean my aquarium glass. Works better than Windex without the worry.

Personally I'd keep the UV on. I'd keep the skimmer on regardless of nutrients. If anything shut it down for a few hours at your peak light period in the tank. The aeration and ph help the health of your coral, specially throughout the night.

It looks like you are dealing with cyano bacteria to me - it looks red and I see no stringing bubbles. I also see some other nuisance algae in there. You've been messing with your nutrients quite a bit chasing your sps issue, that probably caused an imbalance of some kind. I suggest addressing the problem with adding some different types of bacteria to attempt to balance out your issue. Also go the route of water changes and siphoning whatever you can out, manually removing any GHA/turf algae from your rocks. Make sure your parameters match for the WC. I will even match nutrients on the new water if I don't want them lowered. It's gonna take time regardless.
I'm just coming out of a similar spiral that went-
Cyano>Treated chemiclean >Allowed bryopsis to rear it ugly head> Flux HD> killed off all competition>Dinoflagellates and stripping of nutrients. I've been adding nutrients and trying to restore my biodiversity in the tank now and running UV. It's starting to come around now. I wish I just addressed the biodiversity issue in the first place for cyano.
A fellow reefer turned me onto PNS Probio and substrate sauce. I really like that product and feel it helped my tank a lot recently. Bacteria that don't seem to pull down my nutrients when dosed. Really helped knock back the dinos too.

If you confirm your readings are actually that high on phosphate then you do need to take action. Just make sure first. If it's a false reading and you react you will just be creating another major swing that will lead to more stress on the sps. If you find it's not correct then move forward slowly and naturally as possible. I'm not a fan of GFO or phosphate strippers, I just never have luck with them.
Hey, I really appreciate all the helpful info. Regarding the hanna checker I think I might be shaking the vial too much prior to testing. I got another super high reading when I tested today, I’m running some GFO to be safe and I’ll see what happens over the weekend. I do have long stringy brown algae that keeps coming back but doesn’t look like dinos.
 
Hi again everyone....all of my SPS is sadly completely gone and I cannot for the life of me shake whatever issue is wrong with my tank. Here is what my tank looks like a the nitrate and phosphate tests. The algae in the orange bucket was hard and bubble shaped. The other algae is long and stringy and is colored brown, green and red.

All other parameters seem fine. Let me know if you have any other questions or advice. I am completely lost here.....
 

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