Why is my water level dropping in sump?

[Rylan5d]

Hey guys

Started my new tank this week. It's a 75 gallon, w/ a 20 gallon long DIY sump. Using a Eshopps eclipse L overflow, and a Jebao DCP6500 return pump.

My issue is... My water level in my return chamber of my sump keeps dropping, and its not evaporation. I topped it up by hand tonight to my water level line that i drew. It's down about an inch an hour later. I have an ATO coming in the mail on monday, and im scared to set it up. If that chamber is fluctuating like it is, i don't want to dump a bunch of fresh water in when the ATO senses low water level. Any ideas? Tank has only been full of water for 4 days now, just want to figure it out lol

 

[Fishfinder]

Is the return running constant? What kind of overflow do you have? Why can’t it be evaporation?

 

[Rylan5d]

Is the return running constant? What kind of overflow do you have? Why can’t it be evaporation?

Yes, its running constant flow. Overflow is the Eshopps Eclipse Large. Can't be evaporation because, that's roughly all it evaporates over a 24 hour period. For it to drop that much in an hour makes me think it wouldn't be evaporation that fast.

 

[Fishfinder]

After you brought it back to the line did it maintain that level?

 

[Rylan5d]

After you brought it back to the line did it maintain that level?

It did for roughly an hour then back down about an inch. Then it will come back up, and back down over time. Like it's fluctuating.

 

[User]

It did for roughly an hour then back down about an inch. Then it will come back up, and back down over time. Like it's fluctuating.

If it's bouncing around like that, your return pump isn't staying at constant output.

What return pump do you have?

When I turn my skimmer off my return chamber goes up 3/4 of an inch. That's 3/4 gallons which just happens to be the internal volume of my skimmer

As a comparison point,y system evaporates 5 gallons a day. That's 5" in my return chamber. I have lids on everything.

 

[ROB2005]

Are you running your pump at full power? If so throttle it back, for it may be draining the sump fast than the overflows can bring it down to it.

Also check to see if you have a restriction in the drain lines.

 

[User]

Are you running your pump at full power? If so throttle it back, for it may be draining the sump fast than the overflows can bring it down to it.

He would end up with a dry return chamber and an overflowing display, instead of a fluctuating level like he describes

 

[Rylan5d]

No 50% maybe. Just a Jebao DCP6500 pump. The overflow is dead silent, so i dont think its playing catch up with the pump. Stupid question im sure, just new to having a sump. lol Thanks for the replies guys.

 

[Fishfinder]

I don’t know about your overflow setup. Is it a single drain? You my be fluctuating with your drain line.

 

[Brad ward]

No 50% maybe. Just a Jebao DCP6500 pump. The overflow is dead silent, so i dont think its playing catch up with the pump. Stupid question im sure, just new to having a sump. lol Thanks for the replies guys.

Simply sounds like your drain and return are not balanced
You need valves on both (preferably gate type) because ball valves are tough to dial in,
And play with the valves till you get it to stay level for about a half hour. Then add your ato at that level in your return pump compartment.
Check salinity often for a while
Good luck

 

[Rylan5d]

I have a gate valve on my full siphon of my bean animal drain setup, and ball valve on my return. throttling with the ball valve wont cause harmful back pressure on the pump itself? Ill have to play with that now, and see what I can do.

 

[Rylan5d]

I don’t know about your overflow setup. Is it a single drain? You my be fluctuating with your drain line.

Bean animal setup, main full siphon, open drain, and emergency.

 

[Brad ward]

I have a gate valve on my full siphon of my bean animal drain setup, and ball valve on my return. throttling with the ball valve wont cause harmful back pressure on the pump itself? Ill have to play with that now, and see what I can do.

It won’t hurt it

 

[User]

I have a gate valve on my full siphon of my bean animal drain setup, and ball valve on my return. throttling with the ball valve wont cause harmful back pressure on the pump itself? Ill have to play with that now, and see what I can do.

You don't need the ball valve on the return when using a D.C. Variable pump like the dcp. It'll cause problems.

Increasing back pressure on a constant output pump actually gives you energy savings and increases efficiency. Does nothing with a variable pump though, like the one you have

Ditch the ball valve (crank it all the way open) set the return pump to 80%, the adjust the gate valve on the Bean animal main siphon. Ideally that valve will be at 50% to give you adjustability either way. I actually set my valve to half way, then adjusted my pump to match it. It runs at 82% and pushes 1000gph up 36 (head) feet from a basement sump to my display on first floor . I use a dcp18000

 

[WVNed]

More than likely this is caused by your full siphon drain getting some air in it. When it does it will slow down. Once the air purges it will speed up again.

There is no point in using a valve on the output of and variable DC return pump. There is actually no reason to ever use one.

Do you have any horizontal sections in your drains?

 

[Brad ward]

You don't need the ball valve on the return when using a D.C. Variable pump like the dcp. It'll cause problems.

Increasing back pressure on a constant output pump actually gives you energy savings and increases efficiency. Does nothing with a variable pump though, like the one you have

Ditch the ball valve (crank it all the way open) set the return pump to 80%, the adjust the gate valve on the Bean animal main siphon. Ideally that valve will be at 50% to give you adjustability either way. I actually set my valve to half way, then adjusted my pump to match it. It runs at 82% and pushes 1000gph up 36 (head) feet from a basement sump to my display on first floor . I use a dcp18000

Oops sorry
I didn’t realize he had a variable speed pump
That would be the correct way

 

[canadianeh]

More than likely this is caused by your full siphon drain getting some air in it. When it does it will slow down. Once the air purges it will speed up again.

There is no point in using a valve on the output of and variable DC return pump. There is actually no reason to ever use one.

Do you have any horizontal sections in your drains?

I am building a new tank with horizontal section that drop to clarisea. What’s wrong with having a horizontal section in drain?

 

[WVNed]

It can take a lot longer for air to come out of them.

Does your full siphon drain exit under the water in the sump so air cant go up it?

 

[Rylan5d]

You don't need the ball valve on the return when using a D.C. Variable pump like the dcp. It'll cause problems.

Increasing back pressure on a constant output pump actually gives you energy savings and increases efficiency. Does nothing with a variable pump though, like the one you have

Ditch the ball valve (crank it all the way open) set the return pump to 80%, the adjust the gate valve on the Bean animal main siphon. Ideally that valve will be at 50% to give you adjustability either way. I actually set my valve to half way, then adjusted my pump to match it. It runs at 82% and pushes 1000gph up 36 (head) feet from a basement sump to my display on first floor . I use a dcp18000

I did like Brad said, and that seemed to maintain the level properly. I will try your suggestion too. I don't want to screw my pump up, even though its a cheapy haha

Thanks guys! means a lot!