Wife is concerned about the floor.

[pdiehm]

So the 120 is setup, not yet filled, but has been moved into the house, which caused some worry from the wife, regarding the floor.

Our floor joists, 2x10's, run parallel to the tank (60x18). Using the heat duct and register, made sure the tank is on top of 2 of them 2x10's (16" apart on center), so roughly 3/4" of the stand front and back is off.

We have 3/4" OSB on top of the floor joists, with 3/4" carpet padding, and then the carpet.

Realizing that since this is my first stand build, it's not completely level, I attached a 3/4" piece of oak ply across the entire bottom of the stand. The Tank sits on a piece of 3/4" oak plywood on top of the stand.

If my calculations are right, it's about 105 lbs per square foot, but is a 60" stand/tank, so the weight is dispersed across a greater area.

I would have loved to put this perpendicular to the floor joists, but wasn't possible given the room layout and design.

I'm pretty sure it'll be ok, just wanted to get the thoughts of anyone who may be more well versed in this stuff. I definitely am on top of 2 2x10's though.

Rough sketch attached.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Unfortunately load calculations aren't as simple as knowing the information you've supplied.....additional info would be needed....such as length of the beams. Also critical is the blocking or bridging you have. This helps transfer load. Even getting a structural engineer out to look at the stucture, I'm not sure they would give you a definitive answer. What I'd do is sister the current two joists you have there right now and also add additional bridging.

 

[pdiehm]

Beams are 12-13' in length, but there is an I beam that supports them. I know there's an I beam under the kitchen because I banged my head on it as I was tapping into the water line going into the hot water heater. Whether it runs the length and under the family room...I do not know. If it does, I would think that I'm ok.

I did contact a structural engineer to see what it would cost for a evaluation. If I need to move the tank to the basement, I will, not a problem. In some ways it's better. Less kid traffic, my water station is right there (20' away), concrete floor, and would give us more incentive to go down there. The downside is that we wouldn't get to show off the tank

 

[pdiehm]

First structural engineer responded. Recommends reinforcing. Said if there's an I-Beam put the tank so it's mostly on the i-beam and there's no problem. If there's no i-beam would move to perpendicular area, but if not possible, then either reinforce, or move to the basement for concrete base.

 

[C4!]

IMO if a houses floors can't support atleast that (1000-1500lbs), it probably shouldn't be livable, I know I wouldn't feel safe. My family is pretty big and if my ma, sister and dad sit on their couch at the same time thats nearly 1000lbs on some tiny couch legs that probably aren't sitting directly over the floor joists either.... and their house still hasn't caved in lol

Sure you could argue that it doesn't pose as big of a problem because they aren't constantly sitting there all day every day but come on would you feel safe if your floors could only sometimes possibly support a little weight?

 

[pdiehm]

I think the floor won't break, but it's not unrealistic to think that the joist wouldn't bow with the constant weight of 1500 lbs on it 24/7.

 

[zemuss]

I have seen some tanks that have floor stands (jacks) that are used for the tank only. I think the engineer is cautioning on the side of static weight over a period of time being the issue. IE floor sinking etc.

I would reinforce the floor.

 

[deerhunter06]

floor jacks home depot put them on joists under house 30 bucks problem solved

 

[zemuss]

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[pdiehm]

That would work, I'm not sure I can get away with putting one of them (or 2) in the middle of the exercise room, through the drop ceiling...

Do they have to be directly under the tank, or just within close proximity, in which case, I may be able to hide them in the Sump area of our basement.

 

[Windy]

Place the post under blocking in the center of the tank, between the 2 joists. One will be pleanty.

 

[C4!]

I think the floor won't break, but it's not unrealistic to think that the joist wouldn't bow with the constant weight of 1500 lbs on it 24/7.

Well sure, but they will often also sag with time and age as well.... gravity and wood drying out are both PITA lol As stated tho if you feel it is a real concern brace it in one form or another like the above pics, a jack, or even a 4x4 post.

That would work, I'm not sure I can get away with putting one of them (or 2) in the middle of the exercise room, through the drop ceiling...

Do they have to be directly under the tank, or just within close proximity, in which case, I may be able to hide them in the Sump area of our basement.

Ideally the most functional support would be directly under the tank. That said to please the wife you could take 4x4 vertical off to the sides of the tank (to make room for the exercise equipment) and run a 4x4 or 4x6 horizontally underneath the tank for a little added support. I'd go with 4x4 because you could easily wrap them in a nice wood for a more finished look, if appearance isn't a big deal then the metal jacks would work as well obviously, though I suppose you could build a hollow box around the jacks as well.

 

[redfishbluefish]

How wide is the excercise room? If not too wide, make up a 2 x 6 beam the width of the room plus into the walls.....I've used four 2x6's....and "bury" the jack posts in the walls...on either end of this beam. Here's a job I did prior to all walls being finished, but I think you get the idea. This is similar to your situation where the first two joists were sistered (on the right) and the perpendicular 2x6 beam installed. This extra beam could then be finished in sheetrock or whatever floats your boat......only dropping the ceiling in that beam area by ca 6 inches.






EDIT TO ADD:


Found the drawing.....the 2x6 beam was centered on the lengh of the joists:

 

[eeyore357]

This is what I did under my 180dt 205ish gallon system. I had the same problem with only being on 2 joists. I added 2x10 pieces between joists and floor jacks with 4x4s on top.

 

[FL_Reefer]

I would also be concerned on how the joist are attached. Are they in a bucket or sitting on a bearing wall? My modo is the more support the better! I feel that you would be ok if the joist are properly attached but why risk it??

 

[eeyore357]

+1 For the "more support is better" I think my floor wouldn't have a problem holding my tank but I do sleep better at night with the extra support under it.

 

[pdiehm]

I have some pictures. I may be OK, if I slide the tank to the left next to the wall. It appears there is a concrete base that the joists rest on, and the concrete wall wraps around the back, though the tank due to my plumbing won't be close to that wall.

This would be the joist that the front of the tank would rest on.

This would be the joist the back of the tank would rest on.

There's a 2x8 (maybe 2x10) attaching joist for back of stand to concrete wall:

About 8' off the wall, there is some structure where the joists are resting on, looks like metal studs, framed out for ducts and such.

then you have this brace about 60" from the wall...connecting the 2 joists together. Doesn't look like it would do much of anything.

 

[pdiehm]

Impression:

No I-Beam sucks. if I can slide the tank as close to the wall as I can, it'll get a lot of support from the concrete, and probably get a little support from the concrete base on the backside, but being 10" off the wall in the back would make me question how much. I wonder how far out could I go before the 2x8 or 2x10's start getting wishy washy.

 

[redfishbluefish]

This is what I did under my 180dt 205ish gallon system. I had the same problem with only being on 2 joists. I added 2x10 pieces between joists and floor jacks with 4x4s on top.

I appologize for the mini-hijack, but feel compelled to comment.


I like the blocking (bridging). You wouldn't believe how this assists in transferring load and reducing deflection. I would have preferred it being in line to get the biggest bang for the buck.

Now as far as using 4x4's....one of the worst choices using it for horizontal support. You would have been better off screwing and glueing two 2x4's together. Granted it's between 16 inch centers, but I'm still willing to bet that if you hold up a steel straight edge, you'll see a nice little bend. Also, I'd suggest redoing this and grabbing at least three joists. The reason is that by only using two, the jack post could act like a fulcrum and have one joist "dip" while the other goes up, causing for a catastrophic failure. Hope that makes sense.

 

[pdiehm]

Went to another room and tank would still be running parallel but these joists have cross braces. Only one though..extends about 4-5 joists from wall.