Will hydrogen peroxide hurt SPS?

[brandon429]

3% good safe bet, and kills pretty safely as this concentration scheme. Use small first amount, incremental. Easy to re apply over a weeks time, Floyd safe. Can assess after first micro dose

 

[Herby’s reef]

3% good safe bet, and kills pretty safely as this concentration scheme. Use small first amount, incremental. Easy to re apply over a weeks time, Floyd safe. Can assess after first micro dose

Brandon429, Another reefer convinced me that this algae I have been dealing with was bryopsis, so I treated with fluconazole. It has been in my system for over 5 weeks, and it has knocked the algae way back, but there are still small patches and now I have a dino cyano mix all over my rocks. Anyway, I dont know what this stuff is, but I am ready to be rid of it. I am thinking of going ahead and doing the hydrogen peroxide treatment. At this point I want the algae gone worse than I want to protect my Pink Floyd and other favorite corals! So i am going to remove the rocks I can and use a knife and scrape it off and then use peroxide.

How long do I leave the peroxide on?

Do I rinse off before putting back in tank?

One rock might be too big to remove. It is a huge rock made of several rocks glued together. I for sure have to remove my lighting to get it out, and at that I am not sure I can lift it. If I try in tank treatment first I will make a plastic surround for the syringe and dose with flow off, but what is the max dose? Do I put the max all in one spot and repeat every few days? Or do I dose smaller portions over the different spots of algae?

Thanks for all your help,
David

 

[brandon429]

Good update and I rechecked your pics to see the overall tank / setup again and have some opinions matched to your timeframe and tradeoff invasion specifics:

I'm aware it's a larger system with $ corals but we are now on compensation round number two for having kept cloudy detritus in the system. Peroxide isn't indicated in cyano battling even if a few posts show it to work, we shouldn't take guesses with that type of tank as we know exactly what it takes to stop cyano and it's this:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/t...ead-aka-one-against-many.230281/#post-2681445

Is that easy or practical to apply in your tank? No, it's complete disassembly surgery and the #1 thing large tankers don't want to do, but them results tho. This is the price of using a dsb in the display vs in a controlled refugium setting, all your fish waste goes and stays in the sand, compounding

Fluc use internally always contributes to detritus storage even inside the rocks and the cause of cyano and matted-invader cousins is the presence of detritus as direct feed substrate for matted invaders, your sandbed cannot pass a drop test therefore cyano is the next successor for a while

You still have ways to beat the cyano wo disassembly work and without dosing peroxide which I'll post but don't forget: if we continue course of water work, without deep cleaning and removing organic stores, your fourth and fifth tradeoff invasions will begin to take ground on that precious rock, you're on easy street currently, and fluc is restricted to very few responsive targets- a fluc immune invasion next year is a real possibility

 

[brandon429]

treating cyano wo peroxide and wo takedown:

Let me know about UV sterilizer options you're willing to entertain, that's your best bet for affecting the broadest spectrum of matted invaders who tradeoff using organic stores as substrate

UV doesn't remove cyano (nor detritus) but it hecka prevents growback under two conditions:

-oversized for your system, not correctly sized off a graph or by the manufacturer. Pick a pond sterilizer off Amazon not an aquarium sterilizer. Don't concern over looks, mount it on your front glass if required this is war and it doesn't have to stay on or mounted after we take ground



-you are still having to work, export, the opposite of water dosing anything, to remove the invader not just kill and rot it in the system. The UV zaps the floaters left behind and it catches diurnal relocations many matted invaders will display

 

[Herby’s reef]

Good update and I rechecked your pics to see the overall tank / setup again and have some opinions matched to your timeframe and tradeoff invasion specifics:

I'm aware it's a larger system with $ corals but we are now on compensation round number two for having kept cloudy detritus in the system. Peroxide isn't indicated in cyano battling even if a few posts show it to work, we shouldn't take guesses with that type of tank as we know exactly what it takes to stop cyano and it's this:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/t...ead-aka-one-against-many.230281/#post-2681445

So the cyano is on the rocks, not really on the sand. I am pretty meticulous with detritus removal. I vacuume my sand weekly into a filter sock and have done so since starting the tank. I also blow into the holes of the rock with a turkey baster frequently to remove detritus from them. My tank is very high flow. I think the cyano/Dino was started from dosing vibrant and fluconazole. My understanding is this is a common occurrence. I also increased my nitrates and phosphates when Dino showed up and I doubt this helped the cyano. The Dino is mostly gone. Anyways, I was thinking of trying to finish off the Bryopsis and then dosing chemiclean. I know you are more of an advocate of cleaning sand etc, but my sand does not cloud when I stir it, do you really think it needs cleaning?

 

[Herby’s reef]

treating cyano wo peroxide and wo takedown:

Let me know about UV sterilizer options you're willing to entertain, that's your best bet for affecting the broadest spectrum of matted invaders who tradeoff using organic stores as substrate

UV doesn't remove cyano (nor detritus) but it hecka prevents growback under two conditions:

-oversized for your system, not correctly sized off a graph or by the manufacturer. Pick a pond sterilizer off Amazon not an aquarium sterilizer. Don't concern over looks, mount it on your front glass if required this is war and it doesn't have to stay on or mounted after we take ground

I have 75 watts of UV running currently. It is from 3 different 25 watt units. Two are run in a series ( ones output going into the intake of the next one). Is there a flow and setup for these that you would recommend?

 

[brandon429]

But the sand feeds and contributes, when you test for nutrients that's from the water column, safely insulated from the slow leak down below and it's enough to overcome 3x UV in place (nice job that's rare to have em in line what a neat setup)

Dredge up some lower sandbed area sample mud water for a test, to see what nutrients are from under. Tape a hose to a dowel rod and shove it to the bottom in a back corner area and suck out some mud water

Aerate sample in a bubbling setup cup for two days to allow aerobes to express the detritus' N and P loading then test that water against your top water readings

This is at least new info for your battle, it's measuring a formerly unassessed zone, and I agree the rocks can store up waste as we are cleaning rocks in that thread externally as often as we clean sand

Any way it's sliced, that sandbed thread shows 98% cyano compliance via simple hand work and that is the number one missing variable here. On the last page of the sandbed thread Frogger is posting about dosing competing bottle bac strains to kill his unique cyano in a large tank. I truly wouldn't use peroxide for cyano it's sustain rate is too low to justify the delicate sps exposures. Low return on risk

Also regarding surgery: your tank isn't that bad right now we have time to wait, if it's needed one day the map above shows the examples but I'm still interested in trying some competing strains of microbes here as those are never harmful. I'm more interested in trying dosers that are guaranteed to not harm nontargets in your setup bc if they fail in killing cyano we can easily still be hand removing the target as we adjust

Can you post update pic

Also, have you been repeatedly removing the cyano or leaving it in place? I guess pics will show

 

[Herby’s reef]

So my sand does not even cloud the water when I siphon it. I will test it as you suggested, but I honestly clean it weekly, even the back areas of the aquarium! When I mention dosing peroxide it is not for the cyano, it is for the remaining Bryopsis/turf algae.

The cyano is mainly on the rocks. I blow it off every night and it only returns by the end of the lighting cycle. Tank looks great in the mornings, but cyano is pretty bad by evening. I had my refugium off line during the treatment with fluconazole, so my nutrients are definitely not in their normal range, but really not too bad. Phos .05 nitrate around 12. Will post pics when lights come up.

Thanks!

 

[Herby’s reef]

1. Here are some updated pictures of the remaining bryopsis/ turf algae. It is a very small amount and in the back so really hard to get a good picture, but I know if I don’t finish treatment now it will come back.
   

 

[Herby’s reef]

Here is a full tank shot

 

[Herby’s reef]

Here are pics of the cyano

 

[brandon429]

Ok nice that helps tons

Can you tell by the volume of non cleaner examples compiled in that rinse thread that I approach everyone as: you’ve got detritus let’s just accept

And then rarely, a noncompliant comes along yep that sand looks darn clean nice call nice maint I can see how you seem to have eliminated the most common sink for waste. Are there any small test rocks with the invader that you can pick up and swirl mid tank, and see if a minor cloud comes from the rocks

Anytime they’re covered by growths the pores tend to store up waste vs expel them, makes for nice locus and it would be neat to assess here if any pent up waste in the rocks is at play. We find strong link between detritus and cyano, though it’s rare for the sandbed to not be the culprit

 

[JAMSOURY]

Here is a full tank shot

Did you end up dosing the hydrogen peroxide?

 

[Herby’s reef]

Did you end up dosing the hydrogen peroxide?

I tried a very small dose directly over one small algae patch. My clam stayed closed for two days and it scared me. After posting on many threads the most common consensus was it was bryopsis, so I dosed fluconazole. It killed it, but it took 10 weeks. It came back 5 weeks later, but I think i reinfected the tank using equipment that was not treated with fluconazole. Now I am treating again with all equipment attached.