Will Pods eat Dinos?

Dark_Knightt

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So the algae problem that I thought was just a regular algae that we see in reef tanks and kinda just stays there is actually dinos. I didn't realize it until yesterday! My entire back glass is covered in a pretty thick layer of dinos and one of the side glasses. I read that adding copepods to your tank will actually get rid of it because they will voraciously eat it up. Is that true? I'm thinking of going wit that because I've always wanted to add a dragonet to my 20g but we know how hard that is. But i think ill go with a female ruby red. Stays super small, accepts pellets and frozen foods more readily, and are easier to care for.
My plan would be to add maybe 5000-10,000 pods to my tank, leave them there for a month to get rid of most of the dinos, and then add a ruby red, but keep it in a breeding box for about a month so I can get it to eat frozen and pellets without being attacked by my clowns, and also so the clowns get more comfortable with the ruby red. Tell me what you think #reefsquad
*Btw I know how some people dose Vibrant and other bacteria that start to kill of dinos and cyano, so I added some ChemiClean to the tank.*
 
Dinos can kill them? How? Also if it does kill them what should I do next?
Dinos have two ways of living. The fist is photosynthesis they are generally harmless. As they bloom and resources become scarce they start releasing toxins. The toxins will kill snails, corals and the like. They also become predators themselves.
 
So there is a lot one can do. First is start running activated carbon. Stop all carbon dosing, gfo and nitrate reducing including cheato.

If phosphates and nitrates are at 0 need to get them up. There are several ways to do this each has a pro and con

Remove as much as possible. I do this through a 5 micron sock. I siphon out dino filter through the sock into a 5g bucket. Pour water back into tank or use a mj pump and pump water back into the tank. ( if using sump still use this method unless you know your pump can handle the extra water)

Uv can work with certain species. Some species go into the water column at night. These species are the most susceptible to uv. The others burrow into the sand and uv won't work.
 
Of course being a noob I have been spending thousands of hours reading threads and one of them was about a member battling dinos. I think every chemical method was attempted to no avail and then it was the realization that 0 nitrates and phosphates (or near 0) wasn't good like sfin52 mentioned. After getting these up it seemed to work and they stayed away but if I remember correctly it was more the rise in phosphate that did the trick. It was a pretty detailed thread, like a journal. I will try to find it but that was the thing that did it for this member. I wish I had kept the link.
 
So there is a lot one can do. First is start running activated carbon. Stop all carbon dosing, gfo and nitrate reducing including cheato.

If phosphates and nitrates are at 0 need to get them up. There are several ways to do this each has a pro and con

Remove as much as possible. I do this through a 5 micron sock. I siphon out dino filter through the sock into a 5g bucket. Pour water back into tank or use a mj pump and pump water back into the tank. ( if using sump still use this method unless you know your pump can handle the extra water)

Uv can work with certain species. Some species go into the water column at night. These species are the most susceptible to uv. The others burrow into the sand and uv won't work.
SO I should scrape algae off surfaces, siphon it out onto filter sock, then put water back into tank? WOnt some tiny dino particles get through the sock and then just restart everything? Shouldnt I just to a regular water change? *Today is water change day anyways*
 
SO I should scrape algae off surfaces, siphon it out onto filter sock, then put water back into tank? WOnt some tiny dino particles get through the sock and then just restart everything? Shouldnt I just to a regular water change? *Today is water change day anyways*
Thats why you need a 5 micron sock. 10micron should be ok but I like the 5. No water change. The synthetic salts seem to encourage blooms. Speculation as to why I dont think anybody knows for sure. Water changes seem to fuel them.
 
Words of warning and caution. After you beat dinos you will have cyano and than large algea blooms. The temptation will to do go after the nitrates and phosphates.
A healthy tank grows algea. The amount of algea a reef grows a day is staggering. Its how we deal with it in our glass box. Increase the cuc
 
Thats why you need a 5 micron sock. 10micron should be ok but I like the 5. No water change. The synthetic salts seem to encourage blooms. Speculation as to why I dont think anybody knows for sure. Water changes seem to fuel them.
Ill see if I have any micron socks then.
 
Words of warning and caution. After you beat dinos you will have cyano and than large algea blooms. The temptation will to do go after the nitrates and phosphates.
A healthy tank grows algea. The amount of algea a reef grows a day is staggering. Its how we deal with it in our glass box. Increase the cuc
Ive already had cyano and im ready to beat it again ;Punch Bubblealgae ive never had but I have an emerald crab so hopefully he'll eat it
 
Don’t see it happening or successfully
They eat phyto
 
These will work
I found a piece of cloth that prolly liek 7 microns. Hopefully this works. If theres less dinos then there is pods then it should be easier for them to get rid of it (most of it) and then the dinos cant kill off the pods, right?
 
I found a piece of cloth that prolly liek 7 microns. Hopefully this works. If theres less dinos then there is pods then it should be easier for them to get rid of it (most of it) and then the dinos cant kill off the pods, right?
Its making it so the dino arnt releasing toxins. Thats what kills off everything. Whats your phosphates and nitrates
 
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