Will this DIY led set up work?

skulls_and_sparrows

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So I am trying to wrap my head around DIY'ing leds...I think I understand...but thought I might be able to get some help on if this set up will work together well.

Now before I go into any detail...please understand that I am doing an NPS tank with maybe some zoas or mushrooms...so my goal is not massive light quantities, but great color (more on the florescence side of things...I understand that is not what most people want or desire, but that is my goal...you will see that in the reflection of my LED's I have chosen and why do many, so I can achieve the color rendition I am after).

You'll also see that I am going with a controller that can control 16 channels and almost every color of light will be on it's own channel, so I can really dial the light I want.

LEDS:
(FWV=Forward Voltage, MDC=Max Driver Current)
3x 3up - Royal-Blue Cree XPE (FWV 9.4 @ 350mA - MDC - 1000ma)
3x 3up - Blue Cree XPE (FWV 9.6 @ 350mA - 1000ma)
1x 1up - Warm-White Cree XTE (FWV 3.2 @ 700mA - MAC - 1000ma )
2x 1up - Cool-White Cree XTE (FWV 3.85 @ 350mA - MAC - 1500ma)
3x 1up - Neu-White Luxeon Rebel (FWV 3.2 @ 700mA - MAC - 1000ma)
2x 1up - Cyan Luxeon Rebel (FWV 3.4 @ 700mA - MAC - 700ma)
1x 1up - Cool Blue Exotic 3w (FWV 3.6v @ 700mA - MAC - 700ma)
1x 1up - Turquoise LED 3w (FWV 3.0 @ 700mA - MAC - 700ma)
2x 3up - Hyper Violet Exotic 9w (FWV 9.0-10.8 @ 700mA - MAC - 700ma)
3x 1up - True Violet Exotic 3w (FWV 3.0-3.6 @ 700mA - MAC - 700ma)
2x 1up - Yellow Osram SSL (FWV 2.6 @ 350mA - 1000ma)
2x 1up - Amber Luxon rebel (FWV 3.6 @ 700mA - MAC - 700ma)
1x 1up - Red Cree XPE (FW voltage 2.1 @ 350mA - MAC - 700ma)
2x 1up - Green Cree XPE (FWV 3.4 @ 350mA - MAC - 1000ma)
6x 1up - UV ProLight Ultraviolet 1w (FWV 3.5 @ 350mA - MAC - 500ma)
Total::: LEDs -50- FWV -120-

I am still thinking of cutting down on some LED's, to bring the cost down a bit...so with keeping in mind that my goal is more of a color preference and not penetrating par, if you see where some could drop off...Im all ears.

Drivers:
2x Coralux 5up LDD driver board
1x Meanwell ldd-1000h driver
*Warm-White*
1x Meanwell ldd-1000h driver
*neu-white*
1x Meanwell ldd-1000h driver
*cool-white*
1x Meanwell ldd-1000h driver
*royal-blue*
1x Meanwell ldd-1000h driver
*blue*
1x Meanwell ldd-700h driver
*yellow, amber*
1x Meanwell ldd-700h driver
*cyan, turquoise, cool blue*
1x Meanwell ldd-700h driver
*hyper violet, true violet*
1x Meanwell ldd-700h driver
*green, red*
1x Meanwell ldd-500h driver
*ultra-violet*

Each one of these drivers say they can run 1-16 average LED's at full power and most are only going to be running about 1-4 leds

1x meanwell 180w 48v 3.75a power supply...this power supply has me a bit confused...
It says it can run 3 - ldd 1000ma drivers at full power...but I am running more then that, but with only 1-4 leds, I am well under them being at full power. From my understanding is that you go by the forward voltage and that roughly converts to watts. So with the amount of leds I have I am just shy of 120 FWV/watts. So I dont know if I go by FWV or amps...but looking at it, if I was to go by amps, I could only run like 3 leds per power supply?


1x Storm-X led controller

12" makers led heatsink
They said that each 6" of heat sink can cool 60w of leds with out a fan, but have seen people run 120w of leds with a fan, but said if the fan failed...could be a bit sketchy. So 12" with the amount of LED's should be fine, even if the fans fail.

I also understand, that I need wire and thermal compound and what not...my goal is just to see if this will all function together.

Any and all helpful input will be much appreciated!
 
Hey, I'll give it a go but probably not til tomorrow or after. I'm completely on my backside with the Flu, but this got my attention anyway. Looking forward to see where you take this.

Cheers, Todd
 
I don't quite understand your LED lay out 3x 3up? If the 3x means three emitters then I only counted 25 total. At the bottom it says 50?

Also, you have ten drivers listed. I had 168 emitters on my 210 with only seven drivers. The meanwell 48-60D can run 24 emitters if you split the positive lead with some fast blow fuses and 1K Ohm resistors. There are other meanwell drivers that can run even more emitters than that if you look around.
 
I don't quite understand your LED lay out 3x 3up? If the 3x means three emitters then I only counted 25 total. At the bottom it says 50?

Also, you have ten drivers listed. I had 168 emitters on my 210 with only seven drivers. The meanwell 48-60D can run 24 emitters if you split the positive lead with some fast blow fuses and 1K Ohm resistors. There are other meanwell drivers that can run even more emitters than that if you look around.

3x 3up, means having 3 of a 3 led star. So the led "star" has 3 leds on it and im wanting 3 of those, so a total of 9 leds.

Yeah...there is a 500w one that is meant to run 10 drivers at FULL power, but those drivers are capable of running 16 leds at full power, so I was thinking that if im not running anywhere near that many leds on those drivers, my thought is that I can run a smaller power supply since im not maxing out the drivers themselves.
 
Here is some more details on parts I am using and I have updated my LED list...

9x 1up - Royal-Blue Cree XPE (FWV 3.1 @ 350mA - MDC - 1000ma)
9x 1up - Blue Cree XPE (FWV 3.2 @ 350mA - 1000ma)
4x 1up - Warm-White Cree XTE (FWV 3.2 @ 700mA - MAC - 1000ma )
6x 1up - Cool-White Cree XTE (FWV 3.85 @ 350mA - MAC - 1500ma)
4x 1up - Neu-White Luxeon Rebel (FWV 3.2 @ 700mA - MAC - 1000ma)
1x 1up - Cyan Luxeon Rebel (FWV 3.4 @ 700mA - MAC - 700ma)
1x 1up - Cool Blue Exotic 3w (FWV 3.6v @ 700mA - MAC - 700ma)
1x 1up - Turquoise LED 3w (FWV 3.0 @ 700mA - MAC - 700ma)
6x 1up - Hyper Violet Exotic 3w (FWV 3.0 @ 700mA - MAC - 700ma)
6x 1up - True Violet Exotic 3w (FWV 3.0-3.6 @ 700mA - MAC - 700ma)
2x 1up - Yellow Osram SSL (FWV 2.6 @ 350mA - 1000ma)
2x 1up - Amber Luxon rebel (FWV 3.6 @ 700mA - MAC - 700ma)
1x 1up - Red Cree XPE (FW voltage 2.1 @ 350mA - MAC - 700ma)
2x 1up - Green Cree XPE (FWV 3.4 @ 350mA - MAC - 1000ma)
6x 1up - UV ProLight Ultraviolet 1w (FWV 3.5 @ 350mA - MAC - 500ma)

Here is the driver board
Coralux 5UP LDD driver board - LEDGroupBuy.com

Drivers
Meanwell LDD-1000H
Meanwell LDD-500H
Meanwell LDD-700H


Controller
Storm-X LED Controller - LEDGroupBuy.com

Powersupply
http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/180w-48v-3-75a-dc-power-supply/

I do wonder if I could get the same sort of color, by cutting the bigger numbers down some, since most all colors have their own channel, so I do not have to try and out compete other colors that are fixed to a channel...If I could cut them down, that would be awesome, as I would like to bring the cost down some.
 
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OK Brandon, almost back to 75% myself and not in such a medicated daze now will jump in here. First off what dimensions are said tank and what type of Heat sinks and cooling are you planning on using. The 'Storm-X Controller' looks amazing, wish that I had the Geekness level language-wise required to take advantage of one. IMHO you probably have to many and unknown color specific emitters listed above and should look at them in there nm range first then ma rating second for your particular application. Meaning, to determine what Coral pigments you would like to excite or fluoresce and which to reflect. To be able to see any particular color it must be excited into fluorescing or there to be reflected back. For non-photo Corals they need a particular spectrum or a very broad spectrum light source to show actual colors, you can isolate most by matching colors to specific emitters or just broadening your selection of primary emitters like I did to my array. I used bin specific LED's to be able to fine tune overall blend of my Full/Broad Spectrum fixture. As an example in just the 'Blue' spectrum having a 460nm RB peak is optimal for most Coral but in adding 450nm and 485nm in smaller quantities you will broaden the range of fluoresced and reflected light that we see.

Example #1 graph showing fluorescent pigments and excitation spectra
SpectrumExcitation_zps4d8b1898.jpg



Example #2 link here shows some nice detail into what spectra excites certain pigments and then at what spectrum they emit
http://www.horiba.com/fileadmin/uploads/Scientific/Documents/Fluorescence/Fluorescent_Coral_FL-19.pdf

Example #3 graph (that Bill of Reef LED posted) showing photosynthetic efficiency at specific spectrum
PhotoPenetration_zpsbfcfc982.jpg


Beyond deciding which colors you really want to see and to what mix of emitters to use you will need to have compatible mixes of energy requirements. Originally I had to divide mine into 1050ma max and 700ma max then decided to just tune my drivers to 700ma max knowing that I would not need to run any of them any higher. After a few upgrades only have a few of the original 700ma max emitters left and mostly 1050-1500ma emitters running 55% at 700ma or roughly 41% of rated.

Anyhow, getting tired as not nearly recouped yet but would think that you could do some very intricate lighting setups using only 6-8 channels them maybe use 1 as a Lunar Schedule and 4-6 for Tidal schedules as in a reversing gyre for example. Will check back later......must nap now....lol

Cheers, Todd
 
OK Brandon, almost back to 75% myself and not in such a medicated daze now will jump in here. First off what dimensions are said tank and what type of Heat sinks and cooling are you planning on using. The 'Storm-X Controller' looks amazing, wish that I had the Geekness level language-wise required to take advantage of one. IMHO you probably have to many and unknown color specific emitters listed above and should look at them in there nm range first then ma rating second for your particular application. Meaning, to determine what Coral pigments you would like to excite or fluoresce and which to reflect. To be able to see any particular color it must be excited into fluorescing or there to be reflected back. For non-photo Corals they need a particular spectrum or a very broad spectrum light source to show actual colors, you can isolate most by matching colors to specific emitters or just broadening your selection of primary emitters like I did to my array. I used bin specific LED's to be able to fine tune overall blend of my Full/Broad Spectrum fixture. As an example in just the 'Blue' spectrum having a 460nm RB peak is optimal for most Coral but in adding 450nm and 485nm in smaller quantities you will broaden the range of fluoresced and reflected light that we see.

Example #1 graph showing fluorescent pigments and excitation spectra
SpectrumExcitation_zps4d8b1898.jpg



Example #2 link here shows some nice detail into what spectra excites certain pigments and then at what spectrum they emit
http://www.horiba.com/fileadmin/uploads/Scientific/Documents/Fluorescence/Fluorescent_Coral_FL-19.pdf

Example #3 graph (that Bill of Reef LED posted) showing photosynthetic efficiency at specific spectrum
PhotoPenetration_zpsbfcfc982.jpg


Beyond deciding which colors you really want to see and to what mix of emitters to use you will need to have compatible mixes of energy requirements. Originally I had to divide mine into 1050ma max and 700ma max then decided to just tune my drivers to 700ma max knowing that I would not need to run any of them any higher. After a few upgrades only have a few of the original 700ma max emitters left and mostly 1050-1500ma emitters running 55% at 700ma or roughly 41% of rated.

Anyhow, getting tired as not nearly recouped yet but would think that you could do some very intricate lighting setups using only 6-8 channels them maybe use 1 as a Lunar Schedule and 4-6 for Tidal schedules as in a reversing gyre for example. Will check back later......must nap now....lol

Cheers, Todd


That is my goal with so many colors of emitters and running them on thier own channel, so I can dial them in accordingly to get the most and best florence from the corals.

Isnt the point of the different drivers that max out at a certain ma, the point to be able to run different ones with different emitters and not have to worry about as they are capped? So if im not mixing 700ma with 1000ma emiters on a 500ma driver, then I shouldn't have a problem correct?

Will the power supply not work for this...could I get some clarification on this?
 
Yes, I think your power supply will work fine and as long as you keep the emitters segregated by power rating you should be Golden. I still think that if I were in your place would have only the 5 allotted channels for lighting: 1000ma Drivers #1 & 2 Blues in a ratio of 2x RB 460nm with 1x each 450nm and 485nm ~ 1000ma Driver #3 Cool Whites in a mix of bin specific in a ratio of 2:1 10K and 6500K or maybe a 1:1:1 ratio with addition of 8K's ~ 700ma Driver #4 Colored Mix in a ratio of 3x Violet 410nm, 2x Cyan 505-510nm, 1x Green 520nm, 1x Red 625nm and 1x Far Red 670nm ~ 500ma Driver #5 Moonlights in a 1:1 ratio of Blue 460nm and Violet 410nm that you can ramp up & down to match Lunar Phase with.

IMHO, with this suggestion you would be able to HIT just about any 'Lighting Theme' imaginable. And could be ran with between 48 and 72 emitters on the four primary circuits. You still have not spilled the beans yet on what size of DT ???


Cheers, Todd
 
Yes, I think your power supply will work fine and as long as you keep the emitters segregated by power rating you should be Golden. I still think that if I were in your place would have only the 5 allotted channels for lighting: 1000ma Drivers #1 & 2 Blues in a ratio of 2x RB 460nm with 1x each 450nm and 485nm ~ 1000ma Driver #3 Cool Whites in a mix of bin specific in a ratio of 2:1 10K and 6500K or maybe a 1:1:1 ratio with addition of 8K's ~ 700ma Driver #4 Colored Mix in a ratio of 3x Violet 410nm, 2x Cyan 505-510nm, 1x Green 520nm, 1x Red 625nm and 1x Far Red 670nm ~ 500ma Driver #5 Moonlights in a 1:1 ratio of Blue 460nm and Violet 410nm that you can ramp up & down to match Lunar Phase with.

IMHO, with this suggestion you would be able to HIT just about any 'Lighting Theme' imaginable. And could be ran with between 48 and 72 emitters on the four primary circuits. You still have not spilled the beans yet on what size of DT ???


Cheers, Todd

Ahh...im not one to things simple, I tend to want to push the envelope (you'll see, with the stand im doing) and this is no different, but im considering lessening the amount of leds, since they will all be controlled individualy, I dont need to try and out compete, other more dominant colors.

I haven't mentioned the tank, due to ot being small and this sort of light being overkill, but that is why I want so much control, so it wont matter...again primary goal "COLOR" and having the options of many leds to truly dial in color is my MO.

Tank is a 35gal shallow peninsula w/ .5" starphire on 3 sides.

Im gonna take a look at the amount of leds, cut it down and see what the thought is.
 
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Thinking maybe this might be a little better cost wise...drops the price by about $80-90.

5x 1up - Royal-Blue Cree XPE
5x 1up - Blue Cree XPE
1x 1up - Warm-White Cree XTE
3x 1up - Cool-White Cree XTE
1x 1up - Neu-White Luxeon Rebel
1x 1up - Cyan Luxeon Rebel
1x 1up - Cool Blue Exotic 3w
1x 1up - Turquoise LED 3w
3x 1up - Hyper Violet Exotic 3w
3x 1up - True Violet Exotic 3w
1x 1up - Yellow Osram SSL
1x 1up - Amber Luxon rebel
1x 1up - Red Cree XPE
1x 1up - Green Cree XPE
4x 1up - UV ProLight Ultraviolet 1w
 
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