Winter Temperature Issues

[RaisingKane]

It's a good idea to follow above suggestions so that heat is more under control but temperature stability is probably the least important thing to chase.

It's actually quite unnatural for any of these organisms to experience 77 degrees 24/7 365. Anything in the mid to upper 70s is considered optimal as an average but low 70s and low 80s is very much within the norms of the environments they come from. Swings dont matter either as often cold and warm currents will shift multiple times per day or fish will swim between different pockets of temp and salinity gradients.

Thank you! Just trying to get the swing to not be so drastic.

 

[workhz]

I skimmed so apologies if I missed this. I'd say that you need to up the temp of your heaters so they get the water temp to what you want in the sump regardless of what the heater says. They are often horribly miscalibrated.

What I think is happening is your heaters turn off at some point and don't warm anymore and during the day your tank temp rises to be in line with the house. I've had that happen before. Heater settings are off. my 2 cents.

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

No - I just ordered an Inkbird. Should be here tonight. Thank you Amazon. LOL.

I'd prolly get another heater as well, I have a feeling one or a few of those ain't doing too much. If it was 800w+ of heat those fish would be cooked like a clam bake.

 

[N1tew0lf1212]

So it's NOT a peninsula. Its a 130.4 47x25 (ish) tank with the overflow in the middle and two returns on both sides. The probe in on the left side.

I would still adjust return position on one return. How deep is the probe in the tank? And you had an issue in the summer with a heat wave and now cold in winter. This could def. Be a flow issue. I would test one heater at a time in a seperate bucket fill with cold tapwater and see if it gets to temp how long it takes or if the heater is stuck on. Test all three.

 

[RaisingKane]

I skimmed so apologies if I missed this. I'd say that you need to up the temp of your heaters so they get the water temp to what you want in the sump regardless of what the heater says. They are often horribly miscalibrated.

What I think is happening is your heaters turn off at some point and don't warm anymore and during the day your tank temp rises to be in line with the house. I've had that happen before. Heater settings are off. my 2 cents.

Yes! I have noticed that the heaters are way off. By at least 5 degrees. I have adjusted for that as well.

 

[N1tew0lf1212]

Also with your coral concerns high fluctuations can cause stress and loss with corals. I would say going from extremes with summer and winter is odd. What kind of return pump do you have? Was there a high evaporation rate in the summer with it being 90+ in the dt. Now that your having issues in the winter months just curious to see return flow rate and turnover from sump to dt.

 

[RaisingKane]

I'd prolly get another heater as well, I have a feeling one or a few of those ain't doing too much. If it was 800w+ of heat those fish would be cooked like a clam bake.

Right? I'm thinking one of them needs to be replaced,- its almost a year old - the other is brand new.

 

[RaisingKane]

Also with your coral concerns high fluctuations can cause stress and loss with corals. I would say going from extremes with summer and winter is odd. What kind of return pump do you have? Was there a high evaporation rate in the summer with it being 90+ in the dt. Now that your having issues in the winter months just curious to see return flow rate and turnover from sump to dt.

I have a Vecrta S2 running at 75%

 

[Dburr1014]

Yes! I have noticed that the heaters are way off. By at least 5 degrees. I have adjusted for that as well.

So they are "calibrated" to a standard? Let's say your standard is the glass thermometer that you have. They should all be coming on at the same time, is this correct?

 

[RaisingKane]

I have a Vecrta S2 running at 75%

And yes - High evaporation , which lead to a huge spike in Salinity. Wiped everything but the Xenia out. How crazy is that? I KILLED GSP....

 

[RaisingKane]

So they are "calibrated" to a standard? Let's say your standard is the glass thermometer that you have. They should all be coming on at the same time, is this correct?

They are staggered -Just in case - like someone said, with 800 Watts sitting in there, I don't want an overheating issue.

 

[((FORDTECH))]

Yeah - Its a Waterbox though and thats a custom solution. I don't like the look of screens that are out there for this tank. But yeah - that probably would solve the issue.

No the top is not your issue you have a heater problem. My basement 60° and one 300 W heater has no problems keeping it at 78 in 100 gallon tank

 

[Sleeping Giant]

the inkbird will be a great help to you. I love mine and it maintains the heat so good.

 

[N1tew0lf1212]

I would def. Pull and test every heater in a 5g bucket. Use not ice cold but cool water then put a heater in see how long it takes to heat and if the heater stays on or if it ever gets to temp. Do this for every heater. Almost sounds like when the heat wave occured maybe the heater got stuck on....just a guess.....the only way your tank could get above 90 in the summer is if your house was like 100 inside consistently or possibly a heater that was stuck on....that heater would now be toast and could say operating but coils burnt and nothing actually heating.

 

[RaisingKane]

No the top is not your issue you have a heater problem. My basement 60° and one 300 W heater has no problems keeping it at 78 in 100 gallon tank

Yes. I believe you are correct. Need to find a heater that will work. Just ordered an Inkbird controller and now looking at a Eheim or Finnex. Seem to be the ones everyone is recommending.

 

[RaisingKane]

I would def. Pull and test every heater in a 5g bucket. Use not ice cold but cool water then put a heater in see how long it takes to heat and if the heater stays on or if it ever gets to temp. Do this for every heater. Almost sounds like when the heat wave occured maybe the heater got stuck on....just a guess.....the only way your tank could get above 90 in the summer is if your house was like 100 inside consistently or possibly a heater that was stuck on....that heater would now be toast and could say operating but coils burnt and nothing actually heating.

The tank wasn't 90 - the house was. The tank was 83 for about a week. Nightmare. And yes, I will get a chiller for next summer for sure.

We live in an old house that is near the beach and they didn't think you needed aircon in 1964. HA!

 

[((FORDTECH))]

Yes. I believe you are correct. Need to find a heater that will work. Just ordered an Inkbird controller and now looking at a Eheim or Finnex. Seem to be the ones everyone is recommending.

Yes finnex titanium heaters are the best imo and many others

 

[N1tew0lf1212]

Yes. I believe you are correct. Need to find a heater that will work. Just ordered an Inkbird controller and now looking at a Eheim or Finnex. Seem to be the ones everyone is recommending.

Finnex if your sump is big enough to hold or eheim depending on space. Take that into consideration before purchasing you can also get 2 100w or 200w and use both on an inkbird. And stage them through your sump if you want.

 

[((FORDTECH))]

I use these

Finnex TH Deluxe Titanium Heating Element with Plastic Guard

Titanium heating tubes are virtually unbreakable, and corrosion resistant allowing the use in salt or freshwater aquariums. The titanium housing will resist damage a traditional heater would normally encounter while also providing another level of protection with the use of a plastic guard which...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[((FORDTECH))]

Two 300s will work or one 300 and one 500 is all you need for that system