With Headaches and Lessons Learned a New Tank Build

@EAsalty - Sorry for the delay in the response, the euro-brace is at the 23 1/2" to 24 1/2, which means the simmer. You will have to use the first 5 inches for the Pad, egg crate.

I was thinking you could cur the euro-brace and ask them to make a new brace the fits over the top and slides?

What is the size of your return pump chamber? I had a large pump and because of this my skimmer chamber could not be where I wanted it to be because I did not have enough room with the euro-brace. If your return chamber is less then 5" it should work. That would give you 5" width for the return chamber, 1-2" for the bubble trap then your skimmer chamber which your going to want at least 14" that going then to allow you to have your media reactor chamber of at least 12" and then the first 5" will be your pad.

Because my return chamber was larger, I have a red sea dragon pump it pushed my skimmer I only had less then 13" to my euro-brace and alas my skimmer did not fit.
 
@EAsalty - Sorry for the delay in the response, the euro-brace is at the 23 1/2" to 24 1/2, which means the simmer. You will have to use the first 5 inches for the Pad, egg crate.

I was thinking you could cur the euro-brace and ask them to make a new brace the fits over the top and slides?

What is the size of your return pump chamber? I had a large pump and because of this my skimmer chamber could not be where I wanted it to be because I did not have enough room with the euro-brace. If your return chamber is less then 5" it should work. That would give you 5" width for the return chamber, 1-2" for the bubble trap then your skimmer chamber which your going to want at least 14" that going then to allow you to have your media reactor chamber of at least 12" and then the first 5" will be your pad.

Because my return chamber was larger, I have a red sea dragon pump it pushed my skimmer I only had less then 13" to my euro-brace and alas my skimmer did not fit.

@Ditto, no problem and thank you! I plan to use the red dragon 3 100 watts. After conducting more research, I am back to the drawing board for sumps. I am considering having a custom sump made by Elite Aquatics or perhaps GEO . . . decisions, decisions, and decisions
 
@EAsalty - Sorry for the delay in the response, the euro-brace is at the 23 1/2" to 24 1/2, which means the simmer. You will have to use the first 5 inches for the Pad, egg crate.

I was thinking you could cur the euro-brace and ask them to make a new brace the fits over the top and slides?

What is the size of your return pump chamber? I had a large pump and because of this my skimmer chamber could not be where I wanted it to be because I did not have enough room with the euro-brace. If your return chamber is less then 5" it should work. That would give you 5" width for the return chamber, 1-2" for the bubble trap then your skimmer chamber which your going to want at least 14" that going then to allow you to have your media reactor chamber of at least 12" and then the first 5" will be your pad.

Because my return chamber was larger, I have a red sea dragon pump it pushed my skimmer I only had less then 13" to my euro-brace and alas my skimmer did not fit.
@Ditto I spoke with Glasscages last night and found that using a glass tank as the sump there are no braces used on the top, which is basically a rimless tank with baffles added, hmmm . . . I might go this route using your original design (if you do not mind), but the Elite and GEO sumps are in a totally different league!
 
Interesting because Post #23 shows the sump they delivered for my tank which is glass with a brace. Are you doing Acrylic?
 
Interesting because Post #23 shows the sump they delivered for my tank which is glass with a brace. Are you doing Acrylic?

Oops, I should have said they will make glass sumps without the top black cover and middle brace if requested by the customer.

Yesterday, I shared my concerns with Glasscages about the top brace and was told I would need a eurobrace with the 65g acrylic tank. I replied I actually wanted a 65g glass tank and could they make that into a sump and was told yes. I then asked if it would be possible to make a 65g glass sump without the black top and middle brace. I was told, "Sure we can make a 65g glass sump without adding the black top with the middle brace". I asked, what prevents the sump from bowing when filled with water? I was told. "The glass baffles will support the tank fine and you will not need a top brace for support" I am assuming this is basically a rimless tank using thinner glass supported by the baffles instead of the top brace or thick glass. However, if requesting a much larger sump, I am sure top braces are needed.

I am not sure, but based on this information, you could probably remove the top or the middle brace on your sump.

If I go with the Glasscages sump, I will ask for the top black trim (excluding the middle brace) to protect the top if I drop something heavy such as the return pump.
 
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Oops, I should have said they will make glass sumps without the top black cover and middle brace if requested by the customer.

Yesterday, I shared my concerns with Glasscages about the top brace and was told I would need a eurobrace with the 65g acrylic tank. I replied I actually wanted a 65g glass tank and could they make that into a sump and was told yes. I then asked if it would be possible to make a 65g glass sump without the black top and middle brace. I was told, "Sure we can make a 65g glass sump without adding the black top with the middle brace". I asked, what prevents the sump from bowing when filled with water? I was told. "The glass baffles will support the tank fine and you will not need a top brace for support" I am assuming this is basically a rimless tank using thinner glass supported by the baffles instead of the top brace or thick glass. However, if requesting a much larger sump, I am sure top braces are needed.

I am not sure, but based on this information, you could probably remove the top or the middle brace on your sump.

If I go with the Glasscages sump, I will ask for the top black trim (excluding the middle brace) to protect the top if I drop something heavy such as the return pump.
 
Interesting because Post #23 shows the sump they delivered for my tank which is glass with a brace. Are you doing Acrylic?
@Ditto That should be, they will make glass sumps without the top black cover and middle brace if requested by the customer. My weakness is poor proofreading!
 
@EAsalty glad you received clarification. At least others going forward will not make the mistake I made. My new sump is being assembled now I asked for pictures and plan to post when they provide them also.
 
@EAsalty glad you received clarification. At least others going forward will not make the mistake I made. My new sump is being assembled now I asked for pictures and plan to post when they provide them also.
@Ditto I agree and I am definitely following your lead in preparing my stand when its arrives. I look forward to seeing pictures of your new sump!
 
www.AdvancedAcrylics.com have sent me the pictures of the completed sump. All I have to say is WOW ;Woot

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I have concerns on connecting it together in the stand as with about 4-6” to play. If anyone has ideas open to them.

I am impressed, they built it to support the Klir and I also asked for a bubble plate in the event I do not like the klir I can always switch back. Can not wait to see it in person. Should have it here end of this week.

It also has 8 dosing lines, and 5 probe holders for my probes.

Nervous on doing this but it will fix an underlining issue I am having.
 
Figure a good day to also post a few update pictures of the tank:

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I added 2 more fans to the sump area and one for the equipment to allow for increased circulation.

Tank is doing really well I still have some algae issues but the tank is slowly coming along.
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My sump arrived and ran into an issue. John at advanced acrylics was great about it. My water output at the socks was not at the 1.5” level need to support the klir they have shipped me out a part to remedy the issue. Once I get the part I will take some pictures.

In the mean time my third GHL mitras light bar 2 antic came in and is now installed up and running.

With the third light now installed I have a par reading of 125-150 on the sand and between 350 and 375 at the top of the tank at 80% power.

My zoa’s are loving the lights, I am 100% happy with the distribution of the light no dark spots anywhere. I did change my schedule to match WWC lighting schedule which has even help my zoa and my other corals pop even more.

Took some quick pictures tonight as the lights are ramping down.
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I also made a few adjustments to my lighting schedule. I wanted to a bit longer time in lighting, which required a few adjustments. I also read the WWC document on flow and lighting, and duplicated what they have done.

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It not much different then my old light setup except now the corals actually get more white light at a lower intensity but for a longer period of time.
 
I received be part of the sump which added 1.5” total water height in the sock section for the which will allows me now to make plans to install the new sump.

I hav a few things on order for the new sump bulk heads and such and will begin the plans of replacing my existing sump with the new version.

In the mean time a few new things were transferred into the tank this week from being in QT.

My two clowns love this guy: (good 6-8 inches across)
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I been wanting a clam in this tank for a while so alas one is now been placed.
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It is tiny 2.5” Dersa Clam just been transferred in.

I started this as a 1” plug and it just continues to grow great within the tank:
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Last my toadstool which when I received it was sick, and torn in multiple spots and really thought it would never make it is striving and over 7” now in size.
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January update, tank is beginning to mature very well, I have yet to put the new sump in, mainly because I been waiting for something to come in as I plan to replace the media reactors that are just sitting down there.

Before snowmageddon today the Nyos Torq arrived whooohoo

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With now all the parts here just need to schedule a Friday off and plan the transition.

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My zoa are growing all over the tank.
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I think my rhodacti split I see a small new one where the old one use to be.
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Last a new fish joined the tank after 75 days in QT it will have it hand full keeping the sand sifted and clean.
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I have not put the new sump due to being extremely to busy at work, but it finally slowed down so I am planning to do the switch out within the coming week. The great thing, is I been away weeks on end, having friends taking care of the tanks without any issue. They all have commented how much easier it been taking care of the tanks with the P4 Touch installed. They hit the easy Feed Button, and I have them hit the maintenance button to empty the skimmer for me. The Controllers have been rock solid, with no issues, I been able to control everything through the app, even including making minor adjustments to my dosing due to increasing KH consumption. Even through 2 unexpected power outages, both units wen into power outage mode, kicked everything down in power as expected until the generator kicked on 8-10 seconds later!!

I also am going to be raising my light bars off the tank, more because of maintenance and ease of access to the tank. I am going to be posting the par results before and after, but will also be removing one of the light bars and replacing it with either 2 or 3 Mitras Lx 7206. These will not be connected to by P4 at first. I am doing this so that the Acclimation mode of the Light-bars can remain as is, and allow the LX7206 to acclimate at there own interval.

Below is what the configuration will look like.

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I have not put the new sump due to being extremely to busy at work, but it finally slowed down so I am planning to do the switch out within the coming week. The great thing, is I been away weeks on end, having friends taking care of the tanks without any issue. They all have commented how much easier it been taking care of the tanks with the P4 Touch installed. They hit the easy Feed Button, and I have them hit the maintenance button to empty the skimmer for me.

Sorry if this is in a post above that I missed, but what's that bit about emptying the skimmer with a maintenance mode?


Cheers,
Tony
 

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