Wolverine zoa help

[A-10reefer]

Need some thoughts on my wolverines, ive never experienced anything like this before and all my other zoas are doing fine. I did a coralrx and iodine dip about a week ago, still no change. Mag is a little high, my salifert was reading 1350 then got an aquaforest but that shouldnt be the reason. If they were just closed id leave them be, but the skirt is almost like a rubberband around the head, its super weird.

Salinty 35ppt
Alk 7.9
Calc 450
Mag 1500
Nitrate 10
Phos .04

 

[A-10reefer]

Any experts out there that can weigh in?

 

[NonstopSoda]

hrm your parameters look pretty good, is there anything in the tank that might be bothering them fish or invert wise?

 

[A-10reefer]

hrm your parameters look pretty good, is there anything in the tank that might be bothering them fish or invert wise?

Only have 2 tangs, 2 clowns and a wrasse. I had the same fish when i got the wolverines about a year ago. Only newer addition is a peppermint a few months ago. My next 2 steps are a large water change for maybe something i cant test and trap thr peppermints and banish them to the sump to see if they are causing it

 

[Shnetts]

Shrimp walking all over them?

 

[NonstopSoda]

Only have 2 tangs, 2 clowns and a wrasse. I had the same fish when i got the wolverines about a year ago. Only newer addition is a peppermint a few months ago. My next 2 steps are a large water change for maybe something i cant test and trap thr peppermints and banish them to the sump to see if they are causing it

if it isn't parameters I would assume the shrimp, some species of peppermint shrimp are known to go after zoas and LPS.

 

[A-10reefer]

I got the shrimp from biota to make sure i didnt receieve the wrong species. Why I didnt really consider my shrimp shrimp first is because the zoas just arent closing. The outter ring that closes the zoa up is almost like a rubberband on the head. Its weird and hard to explain amd the coloring seems dull. I didnt know if that could be a trace deficiency or overdose. Another reason I dont know if its the shrimp is i would think they would go after my euphylia first. I have a few tiny tiny tank spawned torches that i would think would be the first target. Ones a little smaller than a dime and the other is probably 1/4" across right now

 

[A-10reefer]

Shrimp walking all over them?

Ive been trying to watch them but they are mia during the day. Might come out for a few hours at night. I thought they were dead because there was no sign of them for almost a month. Ive only seen them twice in the middle of the night. Tried other times around 4am and nothing. Elusive little guys

 

[NonstopSoda]

I got the shrimp from biota to make sure i didnt receieve the wrong species. Why I didnt really consider my shrimp shrimp first is because the zoas just arent closing. The outter ring that closes the zoa up is almost like a rubberband on the head. Its weird and hard to explain amd the coloring seems dull. I didnt know if that could be a trace deficiency or overdose. Another reason I dont know if its the shrimp is i would think they would go after my euphylia first. I have a few tiny tiny tank spawned torches that i would think would be the first target. Ones a little smaller than a dime and the other is probably 1/4" across right now

true, Biota is very reliable and their peppermints are most of the time the true aiptasia eating shrimp, do the water change and keep an eye on the zoa and if it changes.

 

[A-10reefer]

true, Biota is very reliable and their peppermints are most of the time the true aiptasia eating shrimp, do the water change and keep an eye on the zoa and if it changes.

And if it is the shrimp, im glad they didnt choose a more expensive zoa, but at the same time they couldve chose my eagle eyes or rastas. But thats the other weird thing is that no other zoa is affected. My fruitloops are usually one of the more sensitive ones to water changes. And ive heard strats are sensitive but mine are doing fine

 

[NonstopSoda]

And if it is the shrimp, im glad they didnt choose a more expensive zoa, but at the same time they couldve chose my eagle eyes or rastas. But thats the other weird thing is that no other zoa is affected. My fruitloops are usually one of the more sensitive ones to water changes. And ive heard strats are sensitive but mine are doing fine

Very true haha but I've yet to hear any complaints about Biota! I hope your zoa starts to pick up soon! Also i forgot to ask how long as the zoa been in the system?

 

[A-10reefer]

About a year

 

[NonstopSoda]

About a year

They might just be acting up for some strange reason, Let me know what happens after the WC! and best of luck

 

[reefiteasy]

You can try a peroxide dip. They will likely be ticked for several days after the dip, but I’ve had good luck generally when zoas haven’t been doing too well

 

[A-10reefer]

You can try a peroxide dip. They will likely be ticked for several days after the dip, but I’ve had good luck generally when zoas haven’t been doing too well

I might give that a shot also. Only have done that before when i see algae or something irritating them, but worth a shot now

 

[A-10reefer]

They might just be acting up for some strange reason, Let me know what happens after the WC! and best of luck

Will do

 

[A-10reefer]

Did a 30% water change.
Ph 8.2
Alk 7.9
Calc 445
Mag 1500
Phos .054
Nitrate 12

Removed the shrimp, dipped in bayer to remove any possible pest and then dipped in iodine. We'll see how the next few days go

 

[littlebigreef]

Wolverines are noted for the sensitivity. This strain was nearly impossible to keep before some of the more durable lineages started showing up. Generally, they fall into that 'low par high nutrition' group and as such seldom thrive in mixed reefs or when placed under high par.

You've had them a year so clearly you've got them in a sweet spot.

All too often with zoas we begin with parameters (which we should) and then get stuck on that, or rogue aquarium inhabitants. Really, the top two killers of zoas are 1) bacterial/protozan infections and 2) malnutrition.

These appear to have picked up a minor infection that is still very treatable. I would advise against a peroxide dip and CoralRx only gets you so far. I'd suggest either a series of mild chemi-clean dips or treatment on the aquarium coupled with a Lugols dip (can combine with with chemi-clean in a single dip). I've also found Metroplex to be effective when used as a dip in conjunction with the other two I mentioned.

As we do more research and continue to look at the microbiome (via tests like AquaBiomics) and its roll in coral disease and pathology I suspect we're going to learn a lot in the coming years about how to diagnose, treat and even curtail the transmission of pathogens in our aquariums.

Whichever route you go I wish you luck. Seems like you really had them rolling, hopefully you can get them back to good health.

 

[A-10reefer]

Wolverines are noted for the sensitivity. This strain was nearly impossible to keep before some of the more durable lineages started showing up. Generally, they fall into that 'low par high nutrition' group and as such seldom thrive in mixed reefs or when placed under high par.

You've had them a year so clearly you've got them in a sweet spot.

All too often with zoas we begin with parameters (which we should) and then get stuck on that, or rogue aquarium inhabitants. Really, the top two killers of zoas are 1) bacterial/protozan infections and 2) malnutrition.

These appear to have picked up a minor infection that is still very treatable. I would advise against a peroxide dip and CoralRx only gets you so far. I'd suggest either a series of mild chemi-clean dips or treatment on the aquarium coupled with a Lugols dip (can combine with with chemi-clean in a single dip). I've also found Metroplex to be effective when used as a dip in conjunction with the other two I mentioned.

As we do more research and continue to look at the microbiome (via tests like AquaBiomics) and its roll in coral disease and pathology I suspect we're going to learn a lot in the coming years about how to diagnose, treat and even curtail the transmission of pathogens in our aquariums.

Whichever route you go I wish you luck. Seems like you really had them rolling, hopefully you can get them back to good health.

Thank you for the help. What would you suggest for how much chemi clean and metro? I have metro on hand with lugols, will have to go get some chemi clean. I was always just worried about oxygen levels treating the tank with chemiclean

 

[A-10reefer]

Update: I ended up using a dip of metro and iodine. They stayed closed for a few days, but plumped up and looked a lot better. They opened but lost all of their color. A week later they are looking better, getting their color back and on the road to recovery. Thanks for everyones input.