Wondering about the cloudiness

[Danroo]

first of all my parameters are

salinity: 1.022
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrates: 2
Phosphate: 0.03

bio load 5 fish in a 20 gallon with clean up crew of snails hermit, brittle star and a cleaner shrimp. Everyone seems to be doing pretty good.

Using a hang on back filter which I also changed from aqueon 30 -40 recently. Changed a filter cartridge a month ago ( 3 months old tank ) after it was cycled to reduce nitrates that were reaching 25ppm every week and had to do water changes to reduce it water was clear but not crystal. Recently bought the RODI unit. Using rodi water now from tap and seeing a good amount of coralline algae grow cause of it. Did only 2 water changes with RODI water.

back to the topic I have not fed my fish for 3 days thinking the water will clear up seeing no change and resumed back to my feeding schedule starting today. Before feeding checked my almost month old filter cartridge it’s still looked pretty covered in gunk

I did so many changes that I have no idea what might be the cause.

any help would be appreciated, I’m scratching my head cause of this

thank you.

 

[James M]

The tank looks new so I would say you’re going through the ugly stage.

 

[Danroo]

The tank looks new so I would say you’re going through the ugly stage.

Yes it’s 3 month old now. Decided to only do water changes when nitrates go above 10 but right now it’s going second week with 2 nitrates, so not so bothered by it.

 

[dhnguyen]

I would not use the HOB filter for anything but running carbon and possibly polyfilter (change it out every couple days)
You don't have a protein skimmer? That might help a lot to keep nutrient levels low.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I too will suggest skimmer. the Power filter is much inadequate to handle steady loads and it is mechanical filtration in which you are missing chemical and biological filtration.
Seeing algae on one of the powerheads, I assume from looking at your readings, you are using API test kit which is notorious for false readings. I would reduce white light intensity for at least a week and do a siphoning to reduce the buildup.
Some cleaners that will help with appearance as this is part of new tank setup and silicates from sand and Water.
Water : Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet to mix your salt ?
For skimmer, you would do well with an Ice Cap K2-100 which will hang on back of tank

 

[Danroo]

I would not use the HOB filter for anything but running carbon and possibly polyfilter (change it out every couple days)
You don't have a protein skimmer? That might help a lot to keep nutrient levels low.

No I’m not using a skimmer at the moment the only filtration I have is the HOB filter.

 

[Danroo]

I too will suggest skimmer. the Power filter is much inadequate to handle steady loads and it is mechanical filtration in which you are missing chemical and biological filtration.
Seeing algae on one of the powerheads, I assume from looking at your readings, you are using API test kit which is notorious for false readings. I would reduce white light intensity for at least a week and do a siphoning to reduce the buildup.
Some cleaners that will help with appearance as this is part of new tank setup and silicates from sand and Water.
Water : Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet to mix your salt ?
For skimmer, you would do well with an Ice Cap K2-100 which will hang on back of tank

For testing I’m using the salifert. What would suggest for the filter. Canister seems like too much for a 20 gallon but what do I know I’m new to this hobby. I’ll pick up the skimmer if it will help me out trying to keep low on equipment as possible but the marine life is more important. For water I recently bought the rodi unit before that I was using tap water and using prime for removing chlorine saw some diatoms cause of it my tap water has a reading of 5 tds. Now it’s every type of algae green algae diatoms and coralline.

 

[Danroo]

I too will suggest skimmer. the Power filter is much inadequate to handle steady loads and it is mechanical filtration in which you are missing chemical and biological filtration.
Seeing algae on one of the powerheads, I assume from looking at your readings, you are using API test kit which is notorious for false readings. I would reduce white light intensity for at least a week and do a siphoning to reduce the buildup.
Some cleaners that will help with appearance as this is part of new tank setup and silicates from sand and Water.
Water : Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet to mix your salt ?
For skimmer, you would do well with an Ice Cap K2-100 which will hang on back of tank

And for the lights the white lights are at 30% for a week now I just maxed it to take a picture real quick. Which is helping with the algae on the power head to die down slowly.

 

[dhnguyen]

For testing I’m using the salifert. What would suggest for the filter. Canister seems like too much for a 20 gallon but what do I know I’m new to this hobby. I’ll pick up the skimmer if it will help me out trying to keep low on equipment as possible but the marine life is more important. For water I recently bought the rodi unit before that I was using tap water and using prime for removing chlorine saw some diatoms cause of it my tap water has a reading of 5 tds. Now it’s every type of algae green algae diatoms and coralline.

Negative on the canister. You'd be better off just getting a skimmer and regular water changes.

 

[vetteguy53081]

For testing I’m using the salifert. What would suggest for the filter. Canister seems like too much for a 20 gallon but what do I know I’m new to this hobby. I’ll pick up the skimmer if it will help me out trying to keep low on equipment as possible but the marine life is more important. For water I recently bought the rodi unit before that I was using tap water and using prime for removing chlorine saw some diatoms cause of it my tap water has a reading of 5 tds. Now it’s every type of algae green algae diatoms and coralline.

No canister but a bio-wheel power filter would aid with filtering, biological and mechanical filtration.

 

[Danroo]

No canister but a bio-wheel power filter would aid with filtering, biological and mechanical filtration.

The aqueon quiteflow does claim to have all type of filtration the only drawback is changing the cartridge which removes all the stored bacteria. I’m confused is it to week or not meant for a saltwater tank? The o

 

[vetteguy53081]

The aqueon quiteflow does claim to have all type of filtration the only drawback is changing the cartridge which removes all the stored bacteria. I’m confused is it to week or not meant for a saltwater tank? The o

Not necessarily. You want maximum coverage.

 

[Danroo]

Not necessarily. You want maximum coverage.

Lastly wanted to ask what is causing the cloudiness in the first place is it over feeding, If there are so many nutrients in the tank why am I seeing less nitrates and phosphates among only 2 weeks. Is it because the algae around my tank is eating up all the nutrients?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Lastly wanted to ask what is causing the cloudiness in the first place is it over feeding, If there are so many nutrients in the tank why am I seeing less nitrates and phosphates among only 2 weeks. Is it because the algae around my tank is eating up all the nutrients?

More than likely - Yes

 

[Danroo]

More than likely - Yes

For skimmer and power filter what do recommend for a 20 gallon, the k2 that I find online seems to be for huge tanks and is way to expensive a pink would be appreciated and thanks for all the help.

 

[vetteguy53081]

For skimmer and power filter what do recommend for a 20 gallon, the k2 that I find online seems to be for huge tanks and is way to expensive a pink would be appreciated and thanks for all the help.

K-1 - 5- will also work. These are about 4" round

 

[blasterman]

The cloudiness is caused by waterborn bacteria munching on nutrients. Its a new tank issue and will go away on its own.

Mechanical filtration is pointless on a new tank and in general not required on reef tanks. You are just screwing around with the tank establishing biological equilibrium and this is why its taking so long steady out. The only benefit of mechanical filtration is if you clean the glass or scrape rocks its nice to trap all that gunk and remove it.

Skimmers can help reduce nitrate levels. There are a few respectable HOB models now that dont require a sump.

Biowheels, bioballs, wet / drys, UGFs and other trash shouldn't be discussed on a serious reefing forum. Your biological filter doesn't need assistance. Your bacteria load is limited by ammonia or nutrients entering the tank. You dont need some plastic gadget to help this. Ignore comments suggesting them.

 

[JCM]

Your tap water has 5 ppm tds? Thats amazing.

 

[Danroo]

Your tap water has 5 ppm tds? Thats amazing.

Yup I just got some Rodi water to top off. The reading for in showed 4 tds

 

[Danroo]

The cloudiness is caused by waterborn bacteria munching on nutrients. Its a new tank issue and will go away on its own.

Mechanical filtration is pointless on a new tank and in general not required on reef tanks. You are just screwing around with the tank establishing biological equilibrium and this is why its taking so long steady out. The only benefit of mechanical filtration is if you clean the glass or scrape rocks its nice to trap all that gunk and remove it.

Skimmers can help reduce nitrate levels. There are a few respectable HOB models now that dont require a sump.

Biowheels, bioballs, wet / drys, UGFs and other trash shouldn't be discussed on a serious reefing forum. Your biological filter doesn't need assistance. Your bacteria load is limited by ammonia or nutrients entering the tank. You dont need some plastic gadget to help this. Ignore comments suggesting them.

Hmm waterborn Bacteria that is something new. So basically I just feed the tank the way I used to and let everything settle before making a mess again?