Wonky Parameters
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Randy Holmes-Farley
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I expect the magnesium testing is the only issue, and I wouldn't agonize over it.
The alk is fine unless you have SPS and the nutrients are ultra low. You cannot determine if they are that low with API kits.
The alk is fine unless you have SPS and the nutrients are ultra low. You cannot determine if they are that low with API kits.
Just tested the Aqua Forest mix - Sal 1.025 - temp 77
Mag (Red Sea kit) - began to change color -with titrant added of .75ml - (1560?), full blue at titrant added at: .80ml (1800 +/-) IMHO this is ridiculously difficult to use and read.
ALK: Aqua Forest Mix at 9.2dkH
Is salt "off"? is Reef Fd Pro kit "off" -?
As Advertised the mix should be dkH 7.4-8.2; Mg 1300-1380
Additional photo's attached (better lighting).
Will pause the 5 gal water change until I hear from you guys.
THANKS!
Mag (Red Sea kit) - began to change color -with titrant added of .75ml - (1560?), full blue at titrant added at: .80ml (1800 +/-) IMHO this is ridiculously difficult to use and read.
ALK: Aqua Forest Mix at 9.2dkH
Is salt "off"? is Reef Fd Pro kit "off" -?
As Advertised the mix should be dkH 7.4-8.2; Mg 1300-1380
Additional photo's attached (better lighting).
Will pause the 5 gal water change until I hear from you guys.
THANKS!
Randy Holmes-Farley
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While the mix might be off, it is very frequent for people to get apparently false high magnesium readings with the Red Sea kit.
Anyway, just ignore it.
Anyway, just ignore it.
While the mix might be off, it is very frequent for people to get apparently false high magnesium readings with the Red Sea kit.
Anyway, just ignore it.
Is there a better test kit for Mg?
What are your thoughts as to the coral issue? Mushrooms, Leather, all look fantastic and propagating.
Other interesting tank happenings: tons of "pineapple sponge" growing in the sump, various other sponges - is this pulling too much nutrient out of the DT? Also - hair algae outbreak, easy to pick off manually, but expanding.
Tank is about 10mo. old. 8 years ago, I had a 150 mixed reef - returning to the hobby.
THANKS!
Randy Holmes-Farley
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After watching thousands of reports on magnesium, here's my advice for folks in the early stages of a reef tank:
1. Don't measure magnesium. It's more money and trouble than it is worth. There are better things to focus on.
2. Use a two part system to maintain alkalinity. If you use a good system (which includes both name brands such as B-ionic and my DIY), it will also maintain magnesium (and calcium) adequately when dosed per directions (not per magnesium testing and "correcting").
1. Don't measure magnesium. It's more money and trouble than it is worth. There are better things to focus on.
2. Use a two part system to maintain alkalinity. If you use a good system (which includes both name brands such as B-ionic and my DIY), it will also maintain magnesium (and calcium) adequately when dosed per directions (not per magnesium testing and "correcting").
Randy Holmes-Farley
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I'm not sure what the coral issue is, but I suspect it is something other than a chemistry issue.
FANTASTIC!
Currently, no dosing going on - I assume you recommend starting! Can you send a link to your DIY dosing?
Regarding Corals: if not chemistry - suspect lighting?
Thank goodness you guys are here to comment - learning that Reef2Reef is the place to be!
Silicates. From the new rock. Most folks get diatoms for the same reason.
Gha , excess minerals and nutints not being processed by the bio filter are used by more readily accepting organisms.
As time goes by, other macro fauna will complete and replace it if nutints are kept in check and many of these things are depleted as the tank ages.
This is the ugly phase.
OREGONIC
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I use Aquaforest as well and i just pulled out a red sea alk test and tested my water im using for a water change my alk also tested a little higher 8.9 at 1.025. When i check with my hanna it is 8.0. I switched to hanna checker because i felt i was getting fluctuating results with the red sea.
Randy Holmes-Farley
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Unless alkalinity gets lower than you prefer, there no need yet for dosing anything. Calcium and magnesium deplete much more slowly on a percentage basis.
Coral issue might be light, flow, damage in transit or even before purchase, creatures irritating them, bacterial infections, etc. Lots of possibilities, Some never get sorted out, even in established and successful tanks.
Here's a place to start to thhink about dosing going forward:
The Many Methods for Supplementing Calcium and Alkalinity - REEFEDITION
https://www.reef2reef.com/blog/the-many-methods-for-supplementing-calcium-and-alkalinity
and here's my DIY recipe. You can get ingredients from BRS and Dr Foster and Smith if you cannot find them yourself.
An Improved Do-it-Yourself Two-Part Calcium and Alkalinity Supplement System by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php
The processs I Outlined in a new tank(admittly poorly ) are why many corals don't do well in a new tank.
Let's look at the other two things I look at. Flow and light.
IMO , flow a bit more than light. Most corals are generalist. And have a wide range of light they will survive in. So as a lighting guy I usually say meh, and try to figure out if it's too much only based on other factors like nutints and Alk.
Most folks use too little flow imo. A coral needs to breath. Many see a soft coral and say low flow. I have some softies next to my sps. It's robust flow.
Let's look at the other two things I look at. Flow and light.
IMO , flow a bit more than light. Most corals are generalist. And have a wide range of light they will survive in. So as a lighting guy I usually say meh, and try to figure out if it's too much only based on other factors like nutints and Alk.
Most folks use too little flow imo. A coral needs to breath. Many see a soft coral and say low flow. I have some softies next to my sps. It's robust flow.
Not with low nutints. IMO. I do love a fuge just becuse.
Honestly , always say tooth brush and snails. Becuse if the other stuff is in check, we now know that a lot of these probanly will go away when the food source is gone or diminished
I have a tank now that is 88% balanced only due to what is in the tank. No sump , no fuge
()Small skimmer , snails. I try to feed enough to not create much excess for algae.
Been thinking about that - as I have pieced the tank together, I currently have one MaxSpect Gyre on the top left - DEFINITELY going to add flow, immediately! May bump lights a bit over 7 day period.
Your corals actually look ok. Overall any way.Just tested the Aqua Forest mix - Sal 1.025 - temp 77
Mag (Red Sea kit) - began to change color -with titrant added of .75ml - (1560?), full blue at titrant added at: .80ml (1800 +/-) IMHO this is ridiculously difficult to use and read.
ALK: Aqua Forest Mix at 9.2dkH
Is salt "off"? is Reef Fd Pro kit "off" -?
As Advertised the mix should be dkH 7.4-8.2; Mg 1300-1380
Additional photo's attached (better lighting).
Will pause the 5 gal water change until I hear from you guys.
THANKS!
The bubble has receded I belive? The acans too?
What light are you using , how far above the tank is it, what are the settings?
Don't change too much at once.
You'll never know what fixed the problem.
Not with low nutints. IMO. I do love a fuge just becuse.
Honestly , always say tooth brush and snails. Becuse if the other stuff is in check, we now know that a lot of these probanly will go away when the food source is gone or diminished
I have a tank now that is 88% balanced only due to what is in the tank. No sump , no fuge
Tooth brush is my friend. Whats your clean up crew? Snail preference? Dang- great report (no sump/no fuge!).
