Wrasse compatibility, help!!!!

[Utkarsh]

Considering on keeping
C.aurantidorsalis(orangeback wrasse)
H.melanurus(tail spot wrasse)

Plus can i add
C.solorensis or C.cyanopleura with the above wrasses?
I have a 180g tank, will there be any compatibility issues?

 

[Gareth elliott]

Considering on keeping
C.aurantidorsalis(orangeback wrasse)
H.melanurus(tail spot wrasse)

Plus can i add
C.solorensis or C.cyanopleura with the above wrasses?
I have a 180g tank, will there be any compatibility issues?

From literature not experience with the particular species listed.

The Halichoeres are more aggressive than the fairy wrasses, would add last.

The c. cyanopleura can be aggressive with similar looking fairies according to some of the sources i found online but no idea how accurate this was.
Will tag @eatbreakfast and @evolved for far better advice not just from book.

 

[Jesterrace]

I agree that I would add the Melanurus Wrasse last. Goodness knows my established melanurus gave my leopard wrasse a heck of a time when I first added the Leopard. Just me, but I feel that the Solar/Solarensis/Red Head Salon Fairy Wrasse to be somewhat aggressive as well. The Orangeback should be a great addition.

 

[rkpetersen]

+1 on melanurus last. Even then it might not work. I added one that was considerably smaller than my established terminal male lineatus fairy wrasse. At first, everything was fine. But the melanurus grew much faster and when it got larger it eventually started harrassing the lineatus a bit. I was considering what to do when the lineatus went carpet surfing (even though I have a lid; don't ask), and that was that. The melanurus is still doing great, he's the king of the tank.

 

[nereefpat]

According to Hunter's chart, all three of C. aurantidorsalis, cyanopleura, and solorensis are in the same complex. So there are compatibility issues there. Being a 180 gallons surely helps, but you might want to look into some other fairies and flashers that aren't so closely related.

 

[eatbreakfast]

They are in the same complex. Choose one of the 3. However, other fairy wrasses are possible.

 

[Utkarsh]

With all your replies, it seems to me melanurus would be the aggressor and compatibility would most likely be not possible.
So instead of H.melanurus can i add H.chrysus(yellow coris) as it is relatively smaller wrasse in this halichoerus family.
Have read in many threads that H.chrysus can be kept in multiples.
Plus looking for a reef safe(more generally, shrimp safe wrasse) pest eater.

 

[Utkarsh]

They are in the same complex. Choose one of the 3. However, other fairy wrasses are possible.

Can C.filamentosus(whipfin wrasse) and C.aurantidorsalis(orangeback) co-exist with H.chrysus(yellow coris).
Both the Cirrhilabrus sps. are stated towards the aggressive side on Hunter's chart, but not in the same complex.
Will adding all three together, help in reducing aggression? Will qt all of them in a 30g first.

 

[GoldeneyeRet]

Based only on my one time experience with orange back and whipfin, I'd say C. Filamentosus would be too aggressive for C aurantidorsalis.

Both mine were ok with H. chrysus

Sample size of one, so ymmv.

 

[Jesterrace]

Can C.filamentosus(whipfin wrasse) and C.aurantidorsalis(orangeback) co-exist with H.chrysus(yellow coris).
Both the Cirrhilabrus sps. are stated towards the aggressive side on Hunter's chart, but not in the same complex.
Will adding all three together, help in reducing aggression? Will qt all of them in a 30g first.

I've heard the whipfin can be a jerk, haven't heard a single complaint on the orangeback and the Yellow Coris seems to be pretty decent (I have heard that the Green Coris can be problematic as it gets older). As an alternative if you want more color you could consider the Red Lined Wrasse:

https://www.liveaquaria.com/product/3075/red-lined-wrasse?pcatid=3075&c=15+1379+3075

I haven't heard a single complaint of aggression about them

 

[Utkarsh]

After much research and reading about all reef and invert safe wrasses, here is my list
Yellow Wrasse (H.chrysus)
Orange back Wrasse (C.aurantidorsalis)
False Leopard Wrasse (M.orantus)
Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse (P.carpenteri)
White Banded Possum Wrasse (W.albofasciata)
Is this the right stocking in terms of compatibility in a 180G?

 

[Jesterrace]

For a 180 that should be fine. On the Leopard Wrasse though it is crucial that you pick one up from your LFS that has been active and eating for 2-3 weeks. This takes the complexity factor out of keeping them alive as they are notoriously poor shippers. Many do not last the first week.

 

[Utkarsh]

For a 180 that should be fine. On the Leopard Wrasse though it is crucial that you pick one up from your LFS that has been active and eating for 2-3 weeks. This takes the complexity factor out of keeping them alive as they are notoriously poor shippers. Many do not last the first week.

Thanks for info, ill keep that in mind

 

[Utkarsh]

For a 180 that should be fine. On the Leopard Wrasse though it is crucial that you pick one up from your LFS that has been active and eating for 2-3 weeks. This takes the complexity factor out of keeping them alive as they are notoriously poor shippers. Many do not last the first week.

Thanks for info, ill keep that in mind

 

[Jesterrace]

Thanks for info, ill keep that in mind

That is the method I used with my Blue Star Leopard. I waited for my LFS to do a bulk order of Leopard Wrasses and then waited a few weeks and bought the one that was most active and feeding well. It has paid off as my Blue Star Leopard has proven very versatile and adaptable in it's diet (even eats seaweed). All Leopard Wrasses (in addition to being poor shippers) suffer from the mandarin problem (ie being picky copepod exclusive eaters) and only the more adaptable members of the Leopard Wrasse varieties do well in captivity. So picking the right one is crucial.

 

[Utkarsh]

That is the method I used with my Blue Star Leopard. I waited for my LFS to do a bulk order of Leopard Wrasses and then waited a few weeks and bought the one that was most active and feeding well. It has paid off as my Blue Star Leopard has proven very versatile and adaptable in it's diet (even eats seaweed). All Leopard Wrasses (in addition to being poor shippers) suffer from the mandarin problem (ie being picky copepod exclusive eaters) and only the more adaptable members of the Leopard Wrasse varieties do well in captivity. So picking the right one is crucial.

I dont know then if i should take him or not tbh. Will he readily accept brine shrimp eggs and cyclops? And then i may be able to transition him to home prepared food or frozen brine or mysis shrimp.