Wrasse Panting/Breathing Fast

[Stoatee]

So I have 2 flasher wrasse currently in quarantine with no medication. Both seem to be swimming around in the day and eating twice a day. The QT is 50L fluval evo so with back sump not running and air stone atm. Ammonia badge was creeping up 2 days ago so have done a 70% water change and we are back to normal levels again. Both seem to be panting at times as they swim and just wondering is this something to be concerned with or is it due to the tank size? I currently plan to add them to my main display tank in April. Other than the panting I can’t see anything wrong with them, nothing on their gills, no spots, no itching, not going to the surface or lying on the bottom (other than when lights are off) and no darting or sudden movements. I have had them for around 3 weeks now.

 

[vetteguy53081]

So I have 2 flasher wrasse currently in quarantine with no medication. Both seem to be swimming around in the day and eating twice a day. The QT is 50L fluval evo so with back sump not running and air stone atm. Ammonia badge was creeping up 2 days ago so have done a 70% water change and we are back to normal levels again. Both seem to be panting at times as they swim and just wondering is this something to be concerned with or is it due to the tank size? I currently plan to add them to my main display tank in April. Other than the panting I can’t see anything wrong with them, nothing on their gills, no spots, no itching, not going to the surface or lying on the bottom (other than when lights are off) and no darting or sudden movements. I have had them for around 3 weeks now.

I dont trust ammonia badge readings and if you just changes water, for peace of mind I would take a water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use Api test kits and see what readings they come up with for ammonia-nitrate-ph-salinity
Fish panting is often a sign of:
High temperature
low oxygen
low salinity
gill flukes
High ammonia
High nitrate

 

[Reeflix]

doesnt copper block the badge reading and the api tests? i thought i read that ammonia readings arent accurate when dosing copper.edit im stupid didnt see you wernt dosing. ignore this please

 

[Stoatee]

So not currently using any medication so no copper in the tank I do a 100% water change leave dry for a week and clean with white vinegar before doing a new QT set up. Here is a video of the fish currently

 

[Stoatee]

I dont trust ammonia badge readings and if you just changes water, for peace of mind I would take a water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use Api test kits and see what readings they come up with for ammonia-nitrate-ph-salinity
Fish panting is often a sign of:
High temperature
low oxygen
low salinity
gill flukes
High ammonia
High nitrate

Salinity is at 1.025 and ammonia and nitrate shouldn’t be high enough to cause the panting 2 days after a 70% water change I wouldn’t have thought. The ammonia badge shouldn’t be relied on 100% I agree but it seems to give a good indication along with being visual too. If I hadn’t of done a water change so recently I would be looking to do one. Maybe I should add the air stone?

 

[Reeflix]

did you check nitrite? i had checked every thing when my fish were doing that and that was the culprit

 

[MnFish1]

I believe both readings. I would proceed according to them. I have never had a problem with the Seachem alert - etc. I would love to hear from all of the people who have taken their water to a 'trusted LFS' - and whether the results match or not. IMHO. You are over analyzing the situation - both fish are fine - and keep watching

 

[vetteguy53081]

Salinity is at 1.025 and ammonia and nitrate shouldn’t be high enough to cause the panting 2 days after a 70% water change I wouldn’t have thought. The ammonia badge shouldn’t be relied on 100% I agree but it seems to give a good indication along with being visual too. If I hadn’t of done a water change so recently I would be looking to do one. Maybe I should add the air stone?

ammonia and nitrate differ and verify both. Air stone yes will help and I personally will not rely on a badge or api kit to sustain/maintain $hundred is livestock.
Like test strips that need to be removed from water in a minute or two, cant see how a badge which works also for freshwater is accurate long term exposed to various chemistry changes- When new, should be ok

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

So not currently using any medication so no copper in the tank I do a 100% water change leave dry for a week and clean with white vinegar before doing a new QT set up. Here is a video of the fish currently

One thing to rule out - see the film on the surface of the tank? That blocks gas exchange. First thing to do is add an airstone to break up that oil sheen and see if that balances the dissolved gasses better. What is the pH of the tank? A low pH indicates high carbon dioxide.

Remember that "observational quarantine" doesn't protect the fish against any disease they may have come in with.

Jay

 

[Stoatee]

One thing to rule out - see the film on the surface of the tank? That blocks gas exchange. First thing to do is add an airstone to break up that oil sheen and see if that balances the dissolved gasses better. What is the pH of the tank? A low pH indicates high carbon dioxide.

Remember that "observational quarantine" doesn't protect the fish against any disease they may have come in with.

Jay

Okay will get an air stone in our PH is about 7.6-8