Any guesses? Pease don't say Caulerpa, Bryopsis, Bubble, Clado, Geli, or Calo - not because they're bad but because that would be wrong lol. I have a guess, but I'm not about to sway what might be the right opinion. Thousands of tanks and never seen anything like this...
Yeahhhh, 35 years and STUMPED
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Crabs McJones
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Sea Lettuce possibly.
I would guess Ulva as well.
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LiveWire
Master Electrician/Certified RODI Guru
+1 on the tang. It will have no issue taking care of it.
Here's the answer cause it isn't on Google. A lot of stuff eats Ulva Sea Lettuce lol Well I don't know about everything but I sat there for 2 hours with a camera after the post yesterday and I know Fighting Conchs slurp it down like noodles and Cerith Snails gather in bunches and eat it. I'm not too sure if Astrea or Turbos eat it yet but want to set up a camera this weekend. I think a lot of people think nothing eats it just because the strands are so long and the nutrient level is higher so it takes longer for critters to go through it. There's a random strand of Chaeto
Angryminer_07
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Second all the above. Had a bunch and it disappeared basically overnight with the final addition of tangs to my tank.
corbzmorris
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Yeah, Entermorpha intestinals. Or is it renamee to Ulva intestinalis? Either way, that seems to be the best guess. Used to collect it in the estuaries all the time when the salinity is higher and weather is cooler.
eatbreakfast
Fish Nerd
Agreed with Ulva. I had it. It spread like crazy, and despite what the literature says, nobody ate it. I even took a bunch to my LFS and put some in every Fish Tank with an algae eater in it, and nobody ate it.
Tedious manual removal over time eventually got rid of it.
Tedious manual removal over time eventually got rid of it.
Brew12
Electrical Gru
I had to do a ton of manual removal on mine, also, especially from the sump. My Foxface ate it but none of my tangs. The stuff kept breaking off and partially clogging my return pump so it had to go.
that's one of the most susceptible plants to light peroxide treatment on the planet. melts. pre testing w show, then you just run the peroxide based on thousands of other calculated doses based on tank inhabitants, pretty much any contact w kill those plants/thin and whispy w die fast. Id prefer to have this as an invasion in my own reef as bad as you can make it before work vs any form of light dinos invasion or gha issues. easy to rid w chemical cheat.
if you would merely test a rock in a separate bucket of peroxide water, you don't have to treat your tank. We'd link your work in the big peroxide threads just to show compliance from a plant that was prior in challenge, the prediction aspect.
it at least shows potential ability to simply end the invasion for anyone fed up. We have been working with peroxide almost a decade now, all logged...its nbd for sure when using a standard test/application customized to the system. part of the evolution of peroxide work in-tank is we test nothing on the tank at the start, we only apply what we already know works. we never experiment with someone's investment.
it at least shows potential ability to simply end the invasion for anyone fed up. We have been working with peroxide almost a decade now, all logged...its nbd for sure when using a standard test/application customized to the system. part of the evolution of peroxide work in-tank is we test nothing on the tank at the start, we only apply what we already know works. we never experiment with someone's investment.
eatbreakfast
Fish Nerd
How did you treat with peroxide? I qas dosing peroxide in a seperate tank with it to test peroxide's effectiveness towards fish pathogens, and dosed to the system water it had no effect on the Ulva.
we must have about 50 examples spread among nano-reef.com and reefcentral's peroxide threads. Lets do a test here
Two ways to get it to respond, two different tests:
1. remove a test rock and simply pour 3% on target avoiding corals, dribble and pipette etc, then rinse off after about 1 minute cook time simply outside the tank directly on target. rinse. don't remove the algae at all.
2. sep bucket of 5 gals saltwater, input a test rock and simply dose half a mil of 3% into the bucket of water and wait two days, chart both
top one will die for sure, whether or not the second bucket w die depends on resilience in the plant, we can easily go to a full mil max dose for bucket 2 and that is safe for nearly all corals we know, and fish as well. this mimics 1:10 and 2:10 (mils per ten gal) dosing from the big threads.
if you have ulva that is resistant to direct treat we want to doc that yep. if the second bucket doesn't die at all in the 1 mil per ten dilution range, and the tank is too big to access all the rock for test 1 application, use a grazer
Two ways to get it to respond, two different tests:
1. remove a test rock and simply pour 3% on target avoiding corals, dribble and pipette etc, then rinse off after about 1 minute cook time simply outside the tank directly on target. rinse. don't remove the algae at all.
2. sep bucket of 5 gals saltwater, input a test rock and simply dose half a mil of 3% into the bucket of water and wait two days, chart both
top one will die for sure, whether or not the second bucket w die depends on resilience in the plant, we can easily go to a full mil max dose for bucket 2 and that is safe for nearly all corals we know, and fish as well. this mimics 1:10 and 2:10 (mils per ten gal) dosing from the big threads.
if you have ulva that is resistant to direct treat we want to doc that yep. if the second bucket doesn't die at all in the 1 mil per ten dilution range, and the tank is too big to access all the rock for test 1 application, use a grazer
