Yellow in corals
- Thread starter Salty1962
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Wilsoni
Well-Known Member
I've also found that maintaining a proper K level seems to benefit the overall color of every stick. (not just blue)
I also can't say that it's directly linked to yellow but I do know that overdosing Potassium will certainly show in your yellows... I had a K level of 460 upon returning from Europe over the summer and my Wolverine colony looked like a neon yellow/green glowstick. By letting it naturally drop down to 420, it brought back more of a true yellow in the coralites.
I also can't say that it's directly linked to yellow but I do know that overdosing Potassium will certainly show in your yellows... I had a K level of 460 upon returning from Europe over the summer and my Wolverine colony looked like a neon yellow/green glowstick. By letting it naturally drop down to 420, it brought back more of a true yellow in the coralites.
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For me its a balance of elements and nutrients with optimum flow and high light. I observed to make yellow or to keep yellow you need to keep your nitrate low <2ppm if it goes up then the yellow started to become greenish yellow. In case you run too low NO3 like 0ppm it become pastel yellow like we see in zeovit and other ULNS systems.
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Add your yellow coral photos here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/lets-see-your-yellow-acros-millis-etc.126791/
I think in many ways it is only certain corals that are going to be actually yellow. In almost all occasions the yellow is tinged with green or tan. I have had a lot of acros through my system, this is currently the only one I have seen that is truly yellow in my tank. I have it high in the tank under MH lights, with strong flow. Nitrates are at 5-8 ppm, Phosphates around 0.05 ppm.
Wilsoni
Well-Known Member
Take my Potassium post with a grain of salt. I know of plenty of tanks that don't dose/test for Potassium but still pull brilliant yellows like no other. Maintaining Potassium within a range of 380-420 ppm is sufficient. Potassium has a low-moderate consumption rate which is somewhat comparable to that of Calcium, but not quite as fast.
With the current lack of continuous research and proven knowledge supporting the roles that Potassium plays in the reef tank, it's hard to fully give it credit for anything other than the direct impact it has on the health/coloration of Montipora species, along with it's ability to target and enhance blue color pigmentation of other SPS species.
IMHO I truly do believe that Potassium is equally as important as Magnesium if not immediately trailing behind it. However, that's solely based off of my own personal observations upon maintaining the desired K level in my own system.
In conclusion, I know that time alone along with many other factors play a significant role as well. But at the end of the day, when I gaze into my display and don't see a tank full of brown, gray or bleached coral, I know I must be doing something right...
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Wilsoni
Well-Known Member
I think in many ways it is only certain corals that are going to be actually yellow. In almost all occasions the yellow is tinged with green or tan. I have had a lot of acros through my system, this is currently the only one I have seen that is truly yellow in my tank. I have it high in the tank under MH lights, with strong flow. Nitrates are at 5-8 ppm, Phosphates around 0.05 ppm.
That contrast is simply amazing! The purple coralites of the colony in the foreground perfectly complements the yellow behind it. Looking good
OP
OP
Salty1962
Wrasse and SPS Lover
Thank you David!
OP
OP
Salty1962
Wrasse and SPS Lover
Very interesting read. I do believe there are many acro's out there that are naturally yellow without being stressed to the point of loosing their zooxanthellae.
He actually says that some staghorn acros turn yellow a few days before they die.
"
When staghorn corals bleach, they sometimes fluoresce a bright yellow colour, as seen on several reefs this year. This may help the coral to defend itself against damaging ultraviolet radiation from the sun. This phenomenon lasts for several days, after which the coral usually dies.
Should you encounter such a bright yellow Acropora at your local fish store, be sure to ask your vendor if this is a recently imported specimen. If it is, it may not last very long."
1stNoel
Well-Known Member
As a fellow Ap700 owner, just be patient. It isn't until about month 6 where your tank "matures" and your corals start growing like crazy. If you're 3 months in and aren't having trouble keeping SPS alive, then I think you're ahead of the game.
akitareefer
Active Member
Does anyone have examples of yellow acro's turning green? I've browned and bleached them but never green. My guess is bleached/morphed green acro's are being sold as yellow. I have only seen 3-4 acro species that are true yellow.
I also don't believe you need any fancy parameters to keep yellow acro's. Proper lighting and stable sps parameters. For nutrients I run 0.00 po4 and 0ish nitrates. I also feed 8 cubes of frozen, flake, and reef energy daily.
I also don't believe you need any fancy parameters to keep yellow acro's. Proper lighting and stable sps parameters. For nutrients I run 0.00 po4 and 0ish nitrates. I also feed 8 cubes of frozen, flake, and reef energy daily.
Well you don't need fancy parameters but parameters such as yours help acros with a greenish hue to show more yellow. I agree there aren't a lot of yellow acros but there are a lot with a greenish hue that with the right situation you can make look fairly yellow.
I don't really believe you need to be careful of yellow corals dying that are recently imported at all. You just need to understand what certain acros are supposed to look like and understand all the elements of stress that can happen when wild or maricultures are shipped. Along with how to deal with them when a certain sign is apparent on an acro that has arrived.
I don't really believe you need to be careful of yellow corals dying that are recently imported at all. You just need to understand what certain acros are supposed to look like and understand all the elements of stress that can happen when wild or maricultures are shipped. Along with how to deal with them when a certain sign is apparent on an acro that has arrived.
chema
Active Member
Very interesting Discussion. I don't have very consistent observations but some acros that were sold to me as yellow-green were mucho more greener when placed at relatively low light than when placed at the top of the tank.
Anyway I think it would be valuable for the progress of the Discussion to indicate the species of Acropora we are talking about. In that way we could ascertain which ones are truly yellow and which ones are green that may show some yellow.
Anyway I think it would be valuable for the progress of the Discussion to indicate the species of Acropora we are talking about. In that way we could ascertain which ones are truly yellow and which ones are green that may show some yellow.
Diesel
ME=1, CANCER=0.
I think we in majority talking proven acro's only here.
Acro's that you know of from their linage that are yellow.
Getting just a acro yellow that is bought as a green hulk will be a tough call.
Know for the yellows is that they need high in the tank with lots of light.
If you can blast a par of 400 at your sand or middle up that's great but at the same time we looking at 500 close to 700 over the top of your rock in the higher areas, not much corals will be your friend if so.
And IMO not a whole lot of fixtures will give you that much par and still look good to the eye.
As a fellow Ap700 owner, just be patient. It isn't until about month 6 where your tank "matures" and your corals start growing like crazy. If you're 3 months in and aren't having trouble keeping SPS alive, then I think you're ahead of the game.
Thank you. When you have put so much thought and effort into a system you often question things. I guess your right and should be happy with my progress. I can't help but look and question everything.
